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Literature/Data
Efficacy vs. Risk: A Contemporary Review of Sunscreen Filters
Being protected from sunlight would seem essential to preventing DNA damage that leads to skin cancers; however, the sunscreen filters used pose some risks of their own. This brief review highlights the safety vs. risk of sunscreen filters and approaches to improving their efficacy.
Anti-aging/Face
Anti-aging Safely: Bakuchiol for Skin-building Benefits
"Bakuchiol being non-irritating, as opposed to retinoic acid (which can cause irritation), is really the differentiating factor and what’s cause for excitement with this study."
Consumers/Market
Expert Opinions: Clean Beauty
Featuring insights on label transparency, performance, safety, greener chemistries, Pickering emulsions and more, this month's collection of "Expert Opinions" is all about clean beauty. Click through to the digital magazine for the complete article.
Safety/Stability
A Safety, Toxicity and Irritation Testing Primer
To ensure a product’s success, especially in light of ‘clean beauty’ tenets, it must be tested for stability as well as safety and efficacy. The following primer offers an overview of key tests to perform as products are developed and prepared for launch. Click through to the digital magazine for more.
Testing
Back to Basics, Part III: Testing for Preservation and Stability
Product quality and consumer health are on the line when it comes to a product's microbiology and stability status. This article describes testing guidelines in both the U.S. and EU to assist the formulator with methodology and production.
Safety/Stability
Why the FDA's 'Sunscreens in the Bloodstream' Study is Flawed
A recent study published in the
Journal of the American Medical Association
tested the potential systemic absorption of certain sunscreens. Results identified their presence in subjects' bloodstreams; however, as industry expert David Steinberg explains, the study is misleading and fails to consider crucial variables.
Claims/Labeling
Back to Basics, Part II: Ensuring Product Safety
Safety is a major consideration when developing cosmetic products. This article describes safety guidelines in the U.S. and EU, along with the steps to take during development to ensure that products are safe for human use.
Literature/Data
Highs and Lows of Skin Adherence: Simplifying Skin Substantivity, Part I*
The first in a series, this column reviews the role of substantivity in skin care, which allows penetrants to remain on skin. A case study on the potential dangers of substantivity's effects, when combined with certain ingredients, also is examined.
Safety/Stability
Getting the Breakdown: Testing the Biodegradation and Styling Performance of Polyurethane Film Formers
Personal care products end their life cycles in water, where poor biodegradability can be concerning. This study compares the biodegradability and hair-styling performance of polyurethane, polyacrylates and polyvinylpyrrolidone film formers.
Literature/Data
Concerning Ingredients: Contact Dermatitis and Cosmetics, Part II
This second in a two-part series looks at specific ingredients of concern due to reported adverse effects—although not necessarily from typical cosmetic exposure routes or levels. The aim is to identify public concerns in order to inform product developers and improve user experiences.
Regional
CIR Conclusion: Parabens Are Safe
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has reviewed the safety of parabens several times, most recently in September 2018. Here, Bart Heldreth, Ph.D., executive director of the CIR, shares the panel's findings and provides context for them.
Regional
Here Comes the Sun Protection: ISO Test Methods
Our knowledge of the sun and its effects on skin has increased over the years, including the damaging effects of UVA and UVB light. Testing methods for UVA and UVB rays differ; the following is a review of the testing protocols of the European Union and United Kingdom. (Click through to the Digital Edition)
Natural/Sustainable
Replacing Microplastics: Natural Cellulose Offers Gentle and Biodegradable Exfoliation
While cosmetics represent a small source of primary and secondary microplastics in the environment, it is a source that could easily be avoided by using natural biodegradable alternatives. As such, described herein is a research project to identify a natural, biodegradable alternative for peel applications. Plant cellulose was of particular interest.
Sun Care
Photostability Leads the Way: Formulating Safer Sunscreens
The need to prevent skin from UV damage is well-understood but the most effective way to achieve this is not. Here, a novel photostabilizer is presented in a test pump sunscreen spray formula as part of a total photoprotection strategy.
Sun Care
In Light of Exposure: Understanding Avobenzone Part II, Application
Avobenzone is a widely used organic UV filter. Its dynamic nature and unique properties are responsible for its widespread use and forms. This second in a two-part series considers avobenzone’s behavior with other sunscreens and in formulas; part one reviewed its characteristics and behavior in solvents.
Regional
EU Regulatory Review: Regulation Milestones, Looking Back at 2017
The personal care industry saw regulatory changes regarding microbeads, nanomaterials, preservatives and more in 2017. Here, the U.K.'s Cosmetic, Toiletries and Perfumery Association looks back at the past year in regulation.
Safety/Stability
Improve Solubility, Stability and Retain Volatile Ingredients with Captisol
We are offering a free 20g starter kit of Captisol. Captisol® is a patent-protected, uniquely modified cyclodextrin, whose chemical structure was rationally designed to enable the creation of new products by significantly improving solubility, stability and bioavailability
Regional
Cosmetovigilance Connections: Safety and Concerns Over Light-cured Gel Nails
Cosmetovigilance is necessary for the prevention of potentially undesirable effects from cosmetic products. In relation, UV light used to cure gel manicures is one area with which the CTPA and British Society for Cutaneous Allergy are concerned.
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