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Balancing/Soothing
Sea Buckthorn to Calm Oxi-Inflammatory Assault in Sensitive Skin
A sea buckthorn leaf extract was developed to calm the oxi-inflammatory environment induced by exposome assaults, to protect epidermal lipids and to soothe sensitive skin. A model mimicking lipoperoxidation in the epidermis was used to assess its effects.
Skin Care
[in-cosmetics Global] Seppic’s Sublime Subligana
Seppic is helping change the skin care game with its latest ingredient launch, benefitting skin that is prone to acne. The ingredient has various perks and was tested in vivo to prove its efficacy.
Testing
Kunming Institute Brands Dendrobium with Dr. Plant, Uncovers Milkweed's Potential
Researchers at The Kunming Institute of Botany in China have uncovered natural compounds with real skin care potential. While Dr. Plant teamed up to bring dendrobium to market, new findings in milkweed present brands new opportunities.
Skin Care
Mibelle Biochemistry Launches Double Duty Anti-pollution Ingredient
Mibelle Biochemistry has launched an ingredient to provide two lines of defense against urban pollution. The ingredient has various benefits including activating the detoxification system, shielding skin against particulate matter and fortifying skin’s defense mechanism.
Literature/Data
Olay Breakthrough Identifies Traits of ‘Ageless’ Women
The Multi-Decade and Ethnicity (MDE) study reveals biological commonalities among a subset of women who look exceptionally younger than their age.
Event Coverage
[video] News and Insights from
Cosmetics & Toiletries
: 01/26/2018
We covered a lot of ground this week in cosmetics R&D. Can Rachel Grabenhofer recap it all in under 3 minutes? Watch our video to find out.
Testing
Fighting AGEs Formation: Upcycled Artichoke Inhibits Glycation, Increases Skin Firmness
Upcycling organic waste into cosmetics has been of interest for the growing sustainability trend—and artichoke, in particular, demonstrates anti-aging activities. Described herein is the development of an upcycled artichoke byproduct, which was tested for effects on skin glycation and elasticity.
Method/Process
Capillary Electrophoresis: ‘Green’ Method to Quantify Cosmetic Components
In relation, in his Ph.D. thesis, Josu López, researcher, developed and applied three “green” analytical methods to simultaneously analyze and quantify various components used in cosmetics.
Method/Process
[podcast] Senescence to Understand Aging in Hair
Aging is a common denominator across not just cultures but substrates. Here, Alison Pawlus, Ph.D., of Aveda, describes a test based on cell senescence to measure the effects of aging in hair and identify ways to mitigate them. Listen now!
Efficacy
Smart Lipid-carotene System for Targeted Free Radical-Scavenging
In this study, the authors evaluated the effectiveness of a new smart lipid system in stabilizing and delivering carotenes into the epidermis. The system is shown effective in providing free-radical (FR) scavenging at different stages of skin exposure: immediately neutralizing FR present in the skin, blocking FR formation during UV exposure, and accelerating skin recovery after UV exposure.
Event Coverage
12 Top Trends and Buzzwords in Beauty at In-Cosmetics 2025
Here's a quick rundown of the top trends in beauty ingredients and concepts we saw at In-Cosmetics Global 2025; and this is just a sampling.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Unilever Standardizes Pollution Protection Factor for Cosmetics
Unilever discloses a method to standardize the measurement of a pollution protection factor (PPF) for cosmetic compositions in a recent European patent.
Method/Process
CBD in Effect: Correlating In vitro and Ex vivo Skin Benefits
Primary biological functions of the skin barrier, immune system, lipids, free radicals and extracellular matrix are, in fact, impacted by CBD, as a poster and podium presentation by Genemarkers at SCC Annual demonstrated.
Literature/Data
Sabinsa's Research Shows Lactosporin as Anti-acne and -aging Active
Research on Sabinsa’s cosmeceutical Lactosporin has been shown to impart anti-acne benefits and is among the first published human clinical studies examining a probiotic metabolite; additional in vitro study examined its anti-aging properties.
Efficacy
Terminalia Chebula
for Preventive and Restorative Anti-aging Benefits*
This paper examines a tannin-enriched
Terminalia chebula
extract. Discussed are its mechanisms for preventative and restorative anti-aging effects, and skin pigmentation control. A pilot clinical study further confirms the extract’s bioactivity to reduce wrinkles and pigmentation. Improvements in yellowish skin tones also were observed, likely due to glycation reversal.
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Testing Tactics in Skin: A View of Visible Light Protection
Blue light, in particular, may be responsible for most of the adverse skin reactions caused by visible wavelengths. This column reviews methods to screen for materials that protect against blue light but also allow its benefits to shine through.
Event Coverage
Snail Slime, MMP-2 Trigger and More: Advances in Delivery and Efficacy at IFSCC19
Using the same approach to develop or test a product will not result in a step-change innovation. For this reason, new solutions to deliver, develop and test product efficacy were presented during the 2019 IFSCC Conference.
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