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Actives
Oak, Green Tea and Orange Derivatives to Disrupt JAK/STAT, NF-κB Irritation Pathways
Activation of NF-κB and JAK/STAT pathways in keratinocytes leads to the release of immunomodulating factors that sustain an amplification loop between the keratinocyte and infiltrating immune cell, leading to skin irritation. To disrupt this loop, two complexes, one based on oak and green tea extracts, and another on orange flavonoids, were developed and are shown here to immediately soothe skin.
Literature/Data
Hair Damage and Repair Literature: Sweet Potato Sochu and Red Clover
Hair thinning and loss; nourishing and bonding treatments; and scalp, curl and color care are among today's top concerns and trends in hair care. As such, we offer the following brief literature review with a look at recent research related to hair repair and damage.
Efficacy
Cold Stress Damage, Banished:
Daphne odora
Extract Improves Skin Moisture and Healing
Cold stress can affect the integrity of the skin. In relation, compounds synthesized by plants under environmental stress have been characterized for their protective effects; although limited data relates to cold stress. This article explores an extract from
Daphne odora
cell cultures to address cold stress-related damage including dryness, cutaneous micro-lesions and inflammation.
Method/Process
Testing Tactics in Skin: Evaluating Radiance and Texture
Hydrated, even-toned skin with a natural glow, all indicators of health, has gained popularity in the last decade. This article explores the meaning of skin radiance, its relationship to texture and various ways to measure this desired attribute.
Testing
Mitigating 'Maskne:' Boldo to Balance Sebum, Bacteria and Redness in Acneic Skin
Peumus boldus
(boldo) extract was tested for effects on sebum production,
S. aureus
growth and
C. acnes
lipase activity in vitro, as well as on skin redness in vivo. This work aimed to develop a natural ingredient to control sebum, inhibit microbes and their activity, and reduce redness in acne-αfflicted skin.
Methods/Tools
IFSCC 2014 Explores Social, Psychological and Sensorial Aspects of Beauty
As one might expect from an event centered around beauty and staged in Paris, the 28th Congress of the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) was nothing less than fabulous. However, the glamour and fanfare was deeply rooted in science.
Natural/Sustainable
Green Formulations: Not All Components Are Equal
In the consumer’s mind, a natural or green cosmetic is automatically safe; however, the safety, quality and efficacy of botanical ingredients used in formulations need to be carefully assessed. Stability is also an important issue. Current research is directing analyses of final formulations to evaluate not only their cosmetic raw materials, but also their active materials.
Method/Process
DNA Metabarcoding Tracks Traceability of Naturals: Wild Teasel Case Study
This study authenticates
D. fullonum
from raw material to final ingredient. It compares
D. fullonum
and
D. sylvestris
in a three-step study by: barcoding the raw material, metabarcoding the two extracts and bioinformatics processing.
Method/Process
Molecular Modeling of Skin care Products: Application for the Design of Pepidomimetics
Molecular modeling has been used in the pharmaceutical industry for years to predict how a new molecule may work based on research conducted with molecules of a similar structure. The cosmetics industry has also begun to use this technology to predict the behavior of new molecules on skin and in skin care applications.
Efficacy
The Dirty Truth About Pollution-induced Skin Aging: The AhR Pathway Tells All
Studies have shown that exposure to airborne, traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates, these researchers developed an in vitro model to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation of genes indicative for premature aging.
Event Coverage
6 New Trends in Cosmetic Technology
The topics described during in this conference session were but a sampling of innovation scattered throughout the in-cosmetics Global show floor. But their overall tone seemed to accurately reflect a larger future direction of the industry.
Method/Process
In Vitro Methods to Test Materials for Ozone Protective Capabilities
Many markers can be used to indicate epidermal stress. Therefore, it becomes clear that the skin is also a sensitive target to ozone exposure and one that could greatly benefit from cosmetic or personal care materials designed to protect against ozone.
Hair Care
Testing Tactics: Decoding Repair and Conditioning Claims to Deliver Real Results in Hair
This article explores the evolving world of hair conditioning and repair, including prevalent
bonding
claims. It examines what these terms mean, the types of damage being addressed, tests to substantiate these claims and how consumers perceive them.
Method/Process
Noninvasive Techniques for Anti-cellulite Product Efficacy Evaluation
Although cellulite is not considered a disease, it is a significant cosmetic problem for many post-adolescent women. Recent studies using new diagnostic techniques such as ultrasound imaging can define the cellulite-reducing efficacy of cosmetics. However, there is still a need to standardize and objectify the testing procedures and to find parameters to measure anti-cellulite efficacy.
Method/Process
Antiaging in a Different Light: Assessing How Chromophores Color Perception
Aging influences cutaneous parameters that give rise to progressive changes in three skin chromophores, altering the visual homogeneity of skin. To address these changes, the authors developed and examined the effects of a complex based on
Siegesbeckia orientalis
and
Rabdosia rubescens
using a novel skin imaging technique.
Magazine
Testing Tactics: Approaches to Measure Scalp Comfort and Care
This article describes examples of test methods beyond standard skin hydration, sebum and TEWL measurements being used help create scalp care products that address conditions such as inflammation, redness, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and more.
Method/Process
Testing Tactics: How Sensory Testing Bridges the Gap Between Technology and Consumer Experience
This article delves into the role of sensory testing in the development of cosmetics for skin and hair. Its applications, methodologies and unique place in the innovation toolbox are highlighted, along with expert insights and journal article examples.
Methods/Tools
How In silico Innovation is Transforming Cosmetic Ingredient Discovery and Development
This article delves into in silico methods including AI and machine learning for cosmetic ingredient discovery and development. It covers virtual screening, QSAR analyses and molecule repurposing, and gives a case study in progress for psoriasis peptides.
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