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Methods/Tools
The Camera Never Lies: Visualizing Sun Protection Loss and Ways to Fortify Films
This work utilizes a UVA camera specially designed to quantify UV protection. It confirms sunscreen efficacy loss over time. Results underline the need to improve the durability of sunscreen films; in relation, a natural wax derivative is exemplified.
Efficacy
Adaptive Measures: Translating UV Protection to Hair Claims
To test preventative hair care treatments against UV damage, sensitive techniques are required. Here, DSC was used to define a ratio between artificial and natural irradiance levels; from this, methods were built to substantiate claims for UV protection in hair.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: Perception of Reality or Reality of Perception?
"Suppliers promise quite a lot to their customers," Wiechers tells us. "And [manufacturers] love to insist on more...This attitude promotes a shift from reality to perception." Read on to learn this month's lesson from Wiechers.
Skin Care
MilliporeSigma’s Analytical Testing Workflow Characterizes Anti-pollution Cosmetics
This wide range of products can analyze standards for active ingredients, e.g., antioxidants and phytochemicals, to challengers such as organic pollutants, in order to characterize anti-pollution cosmetics.
Consumers/Market
Editor's Note: Menagerie of Inspiration
From trending claims and global demands to individual expression, consumers provide a menagerie of inspiration for product development.
Efficacy
Tress Stress: How the Environment Affects Hair
The drive for "anti-pollution" personal care may not apply to hair care as strongly as other segments. Despite this, environmental stressors can impact hair's chemistry. This column provides a scientific basis by which formulation and claims strategies might be constructed.
Literature/Data
Research Finds This Factor to Boost Facial Skin Moisture
Lotions and potions are not the secret to lasting skin hydration—according to
Skin Research and Technology
findings, a very fine water mist can improve skin moisture and barrier function.
Claims/Labeling
Beginner's Guide to Natural/Organic
The market for natural, green, organic and sustainable products and ingredients has exploded, bringing with it entrepreneurs who are new to this space. As such, this article serves as a beginner's guide to U.S. regulations and certifications that pertain to this segment, along with basic rules for product safety, microbiological testing, claims substantiation and more.
Efficacy
Hello, Hydration: Spinach Hydrogels Deliver Saturated Skin
Green Ceylon spinach polysaccharides meet consumer preferences for natural and sustainable ingredients. This clinical testing examines its skin-hydrating properties, plus its availability and potential for industrial use.
Efficacy
[video with update] Confirming CBD Skin Care Claims
The inner workings of the hottest trend in skin care, CBD, were given a closer look. Bridget Early, of Genemarkers, described them at the SCC Annual Meeting and Technology Showcase, shown here in this video interview. Watch to learn more; now updated with Reader Commentary.
Literature/Data
TrAP Molecules Drive Natural Healing Proteins
A novel biomaterial developed by researchers at Imperial College London interacts with wound healing and tissue repair as it evolves.
Efficacy
Illuminating Skin Radiance: α-Crystallin as a Target to Achieve Glass Skin
A newly developed peptide acts as a bio-highlighter and makeup alternative for a natural, glass skin appearance. Here, it is demonstrated to induce the production of endogenic a-crystallin, a molecular chaperone that plays a crucial role in skin proteostasis.
Efficacy
Topical Antibiotic Acne Foam Fulfills 'Unmet Needs'
Foamix's product is meant to topically reduce inflammatory acne lesions without the potential systemic side effects of oral antibiotics.
Literature/Data
Firing Up the Cannabinoid Cosmetics Debate at SCC Annual
Cannabinoids have fired up great interest (and to some extent, alarm) from the cosmetics industry, both for their broad potential but also their regulatory status. During the recent SCC Annual Meeting, a few presenters shared what the science says about these potent actives.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: Less is More
The addition of extra ingredients in a formulation costs money, complicates manufacturing, impacts quality control and more. Here, we learn how less is more in product formulating.
Efficacy
Quantifying Visual Aspects of Hair
Quantitive claims regarding hair care can be questioned if the results and approaches do not equate to real life occurrences. This article highlights ongoing research efforts that aim to improve our understanding of visual evaluations of hair.
Efficacy
Unassuming Softness: Silicone Conditions Hair Without Affecting Dyes, Perms or Pores*
This study assesses the deposition on hair of a coacervate comprising silicone, cationic cellulose polymer and water, and its impact on hair dyes and permanent waves, as well as scalp pores. Results suggest silicones provide conditioning benefits to hair without disrupting these subsequent chemical treatments, or blocking pores.
Sensory
[podcast] Consumers are Lured by the Right Click Closure
"Marketers ... should engage more of their customer’s senses in a rational and emotional manner. That’s how you can create more engagement with your customer," says Charles Spence, Ph.D. Learn more of his insights from our seven-part podcast series, sponsored by Berjé.
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