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Section: Research > Methods/Tools
Animal Alternatives
Canada Commits to End Animal Tox Testing While MoCRA Misses the Mark
Bill S-5 in Canada has passed with royal assent to end animal testing for chemical toxicity; cosmetics are expected to be next. Meanwhile, MoCRA in the U.S. missed the chance to address this major industry issue, one source critiques.
Methods/Tools
Comparatively Speaking—Water vs. Oil vs. Fluoro vs. Silicone Extraction of Broccoli Fractions
Materials are extracted based on their solubility in different menstrua (solvents), and the spectral subtraction of solvents allows for the identification of groups present in the extracted materials. Given here is an example of how broccoli sprout fractions with four different FTIR spectra were derived using four different silicone polymer menstrua.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part II: Cultures, Growth Media, Reagents and Testing
This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part 1 covered personnel, facilities and equipment, test materials and procedures, and documentation. Part 2 addresses microbial cultures and growth media, biochemical reagents, test procedures and more.
Actives
Product Design for Deeper Skin Tones: Sun Care, Skin Care & Hair: Coming to
Beauty Accelerate
From hair and skin care, to sunscreens and more, this Beauty Accelerate session will provide R&D and their marketing partners with the insights needed to ensure products effectively meet the needs of this massive, dissatisfied consumer base.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Autophagy for Skin, Hair Color; Luster Pigment; Depigmenting Compounds and More in Color and Coloration
Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions that relate to color cosmetics and skin coloration, including autophagy to regulate skin and hair color, layered and luster pigments for cosmetics, mineral powder with high dispersion, approaches for depigmenting and evening out skin tone, and more.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Silicone Effects Booster, Sweat-absorbing Complex, Coated Nanoparticles, Polysaccharide Extender and Other Aids for Product Efficacy
Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions that aid in formulating to improve product efficacy; including a sweat-absorbing complex for deodorant, coated nanoparticles to localize thermal treatments, a complex to improve adhesion in fillers, a non-silicone means to boost silicone effects, and more.
Efficacy
'Mirror, Mirror, in the Internet of Things. . .
...use great caution with the advice you bring.' Just what we need. Another critic scrutinizing appearance. And before coffee no less. Yet, this unbiased, digitized evaluation offers interesting potential; and if we don't like it, we can always turn it off.
Methods/Tools
Rubbing Shoulders with Massage for Improved Penetration
Rubbing is a common application method for topical products, though evidence of its efficacy remains scarce. The present article reviews research in support of this application theory. It also identifies what investigation is still needed.
Methods/Tools
Properties of Emulsions: Structure and Skin Penetration
This work studied the influence of emulsion type and structure on the penetration of vitamins as cosmetic active ingredients. An emulsion of the w/o type and two different o/w emulsions were compared with an oil solution as a standard. A systematic in vitro study of penetration into the stratum corneum and the living skin was performed with the isolated perfused bovide udder skin model. The results substantiate the influence of emulsion type and stucture on the degree of penetration of water-soluble and oil-soluble vitamins into the skin.
Actives
Don’t Count On Genetics, Sunscreens are the Best Bet
In a podcast with P&G scientists Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. and Rosemarie Osborne, Ph.D.,
Cosmetics & Toiletries
learned about genetic studies in support of the Olay brand, and more. Following is an excerpt.
Methods/Tools
Validating the Effectiveness of Rubbing on Percutaneous Penetration
The effect of rubbing on percutaneous penetration has long been questioned. Existing data regarding rubbing effects is sparse, and what is available is controversial at best. While some evidence suggests that rubbing increases absorption, others note the opposite. Further understanding of the rubbing effect on percutaneous penetration may offer a more complete picture in relation to the application of drugs, cosmetics and skin care.
Methods/Tools
Rapid Electrokinetic Patterning for Biological Analysis, Nanoassembly
Researchers at Purdue University have developed a rapid electrokinetic patterning technique using a laser and holograms to quickly position tiny particles for biological analyses or to create devices using nanoassembly.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Words from Wiechers: Without Penetration, No Delivery
This somewhat tongue-in-cheek edition of our "Words from Wiechers" series offers insight to improve the efficacy of actives.
Methods/Tools
Indena Genetically Validates Bilberry Extract
Indena has genetically confirmed the content of its bilberry extract, assuring the material's traceability and authenticity.
Companies
Givaudan Gets “FReSH”
Givaudan freshened up as a new member of the World Business Council for Sustainable Development to take part in initiatives, creating sustainable food systems.
Literature/Data
Genetic Mutations Open Doors to Atopic Dermatitis
Atopic dermatitis may be caused by a single-gene mutation, according to new research published in
Nature Genetics
. Scientists believe the effects of the mutation could be partially corrected through glutamine supplementation.
Anti-aging/Face
[podcast] P&G Scientists on Personal Genetics and 'Good Agers'
P&G has been busy unraveling genetic mysteries to apply in new product concepts. How? This exclusive interview, with Olay scientists, explains. Listen now!
Literature/Data
Taking Shape: Genetic Facial Markers Discovered
Using novel 3D technology, researchers discovered 15 new genes that determine facial features, as published in
Nature Genetics
.
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