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Section: Research > Literature/Data
Literature/Data
Assessing the Safety of Parabens: Percutaneous Penetration and Risk Analysis
In cosmetics, parabens are widely used due to their low cost and efficacy. In recent years, however, some reports have claimed that these materials exhibit estrogenic activity, which has led to attempts to replace them in formulations. This article reviews penetration studies of parabens spanning the past 20 years to determine whether they pose a risk to human health.
Literature/Data
Skin and Ocular Flora: The Effect of Formulation, Part 2
This second installment of a two-part article reviews the transient and resident microbial populations of the human ocular area and how they alter with age, environment and exposure to antimicrobial agents. Considerations for the formulator of how cosmetic products may affect and be impacted by the flora also are provided.
Literature/Data
Words from Wiechers: Too Often, Too Hot and Too Long. . .
In this edition of Words from Wiechers, product developers are reminded that if consumers deplete natural moisturizing factor from their skin, e.g., via long, hot showers, they damage their barrier and increase the penetration of anything applied to skin; including mild cleansers.
Consumers/Market
The Future of Spas and Wellness: Saunas in the Limelight
Saunas have been shown to positively affect skin, including protecting its surface pH and hydration, among other benefits. Research shows essential oils can affect central nervous system functioning beyond smell; although their combined effects with saunas on biophysical parameters are yet to be investigated.
Literature/Data
A Review of Natural Current and Future ‘Body-sculpting’ Cosmetics
A review of select biochemical mechanisms and botanical ingredients that affect the accumulation of fat in the body is presented here. Future approaches to adipose management, such as by gene modulation, also are explored.
Literature/Data
History, Characteristics and Application of Traditional Chinese Medicine in Cosmetics
Cosmetics based on traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) are formulated not only using TCM drugs, but also according to cultural theories and principles. This article serves as a review of TCM drug ingredients, history and principles, to assist product developers in understanding how they can be combined for products targeted to this specialized market.
Literature/Data
Unilever and University of York Scientists Sniff Out B.O. Enzyme
Unilever and the University of York have uncovered how a particular bacteria evolved into a specialized enzyme to produce key molecules people recognize as body odor, or B.O.
Sensory
Next in Skin: Beauty, Biosensing and the Language of Touch
As beauty evolves, skin emerges as both canvas and communicator, revealing systemic health, emotional states and more. This article explores the intersection of dermatology, sensor tech and mindful care, urging a balance between data and embodied wisdom.
Literature/Data
Assessing the Safety of Parabens: Percutaneous Penetration and Risk Analysis
In cosmetics, parabens are widely used due to their low cost and efficacy. In recent years, however, some reports have claimed that these materials exhibit estrogenic activity, which has led to attempts to replace them in formulations. This article reviews penetration studies of parabens spanning the past 20 years to determine whether they pose a risk to human health.
Methods/Tools
IFSCC 2014 Explores Social, Psychological and Sensorial Aspects of Beauty
As one might expect from an event centered around beauty and staged in Paris, the 28th Congress of the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) was nothing less than fabulous. However, the glamour and fanfare was deeply rooted in science.
Literature/Data
Beauty, Sleep and the Impact of COVID-19: A Survey
A recent survey from the makers of the Sleep Cycle app has found the COVID-19 pandemic is undermining more than our health and social interactions during waking hours; it's affecting our sleep.
Literature/Data
U.S. Patent and Trademark Office Clears the Way for Innovation
According to the agency, this will give individuals, businesses and the USPTO tools to clear away unused registered trademarks.
Literature/Data
Advances in Stratum Corneum Biology and Understanding of Dry Skin
During the last decade there has been tremendous advancement in our understanding of not only the structure, composition and function of the stratum corneum, but also in its formation and the epidermal differentiation factors responsible for mediating cellular changes in keratinocytes during their journey from the basal layer to the granular layer.
Literature/Data
Enhancing Hair Health: Effects of Oiling, Inside and Out—Part I
Hair oiling has been practiced since ancient times and has more recently piqued market interest. Its effects on physical, chemical and sensorial properties have been reported, which the authors review herein. This first of two articles views oiling for hair health from the surface; a follow-up piece will review internal structural benefits.
Consumers/Market
Wellbeauty and the Mind-skin Connection: A New Era of Care
The skin doesn’t just reflect your health — it mirrors your mind. Here, expert Hemali Gunt, Ph.D., explains how stress, mood and beauty routines are biologically linked, and why the future of skin care is rooted in emotional and psychological wellness.
Literature/Data
Highs and Lows of Skin Adherence: Simplifying Skin Substantivity, Part I*
The first in a series, this column reviews the role of substantivity in skin care, which allows penetrants to remain on skin. A case study on the potential dangers of substantivity's effects, when combined with certain ingredients, also is examined.
Literature/Data
Natural Oils for the Prevention of Hair Damage and Other Topics
In a recent patent L’Oreal describes cosmetic compositions containing colloidal silica-alumina composite particles. The composition is used for smoothing wrinkles and skin. An example is shown in Formula 1.
Literature/Data
Enhancing Hair Health: Effects of Oiling, Inside and Out—Part II
This second installment in a two-part series reviews the literature for research analyzing the benefits of hair oiling at the corticular level; part one examined surface modifications in hair. Here, oil penetration is critically analyzed, along with its internal effects in terms of hair softness, flexibility and strength. These benefits are illustrated in both single fiber and bulk research.
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