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Section: Research > Literature/Data

Retinoids For Cosmetics

Review and Modern Advances of Retinoids for Cosmetics

For skin cancer, skin aging and acne, retinoids have proven both preventive and therapeutic. Successful efforts toward more bioavailable vitamin A derivatives and retinoid formulations have increased their use for cosmetic benefits. Recent work to further optimize retinoids and reduce their side effects has yielded a new generation of promising molecules, described here.

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Testing the Fate (and Exposure) of Cosmetic Ingredients

Risk and exposure go hand-in-hand. So when researchers dared to publish a new method to assess the exposure and fate of cosmetic ingredients, we couldn't help but give them exposure, in this review.

Tree of Life design copyright James Fergus

A Tale of Tattoos, Toxicology and Black Henna

Ingredient safety and skin reactions relate not only to companies producing the pigments and inks used for tattooing, but also skin care product manufacturers in general—after all, I apply sunscreen and moisturizer to my tattooed skin.

A Review of Novel Cleansing and Conditioning Systems

Cleansing and conditioning are basic steps in a typical hair care routine, and efforts are continually under way to develop novel and improved systems for such functions—especially considering various consumer lifestyles and hair types. This brief review highlights a few recent advances in trending hair cleansing and conditioning systems.

Black woman smiling holding cucumber slices over her eyes hair up in towel

Editor's Note: Pursuit of Skin Health and Happiness

Concerns over skin health are on the rise. Here, we present solutions for healthy skin and scalp, including: oily/acneic and compromised skin care, a natural microbiome-focused deodorant, anti-hair loss scalp care, wellness beauty, dermocosmetics, etc.

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Patent Pick: Matte Makeup and the Feel of Fillers

Matte makeup stands strong in its ability to even out skin tone and absorb excess moisture but wavers in one area: the feel of fillers. This was the focus of a new L'Oréal patent.

Characterizing and Evaluating the Effectiveness of Volcanic Pumice Exfoliants

Pumice has a recognized application as an abrasive agent to promote exfoliation of the skin. In this study, different particle size fractions of pumice sampled from several geologic occurrences in São Miguel’s island, the Azores archipelago, were used in the preparation of exfoliation formulations. Gels and soap were prepared and characterized, and their efficacy evaluated.

Effects of Occlusion (III): Irritant and Allergic Contact Dermatitis

This is the third article in a series discussing effects of occlusion on skin. Previously, we reviewed the effects of occlusion on the percutaneous absorption (C&T November 2003) and on wound healing (C&T April 2004). The present article focuses and summarizes the adverse effects of occlusion. Occlusion enhances skin hydration and increases percutaneous absorption of applied substances with exception. On the other hand, it may also increase the penetration of irritants and/or antigens entering into skin and hence may increase irritant and allergic contact dermatitis. Additionally, occlusion compromises skin barrier function by impairing passive transepidermal water loss at the application site, and hence aggravates the irritant effect of applied compounds.

The flutamide plus minoxidil solution was significantly more effective than minoxidil.

Flutamide Enhances Efficacy of 5% Minoxidil in Androgenetic Alopecia

Topical flutamide plus minoxidil solution was significantly more effective than minoxidil in improving hair density, hair thickness and patient satisfaction.

Characterizing and Evaluating the Effectiveness of Volcanic Pumice Exfoliants

Pumice has a recognized application as an abrasive agent to promote exfoliation of the skin. In this study, different particle size fractions of pumice sampled from several geologic occurrences in São Miguel’s island, the Azores archipelago, were used in the preparation of exfoliation formulations. Gels and soap were prepared and characterized, and their efficacy evaluated.

Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum

The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.

Woman Holding Her Hair Pulling Strength Test Adobe Stock 493393919

Correlating Porosity and Tensile Strength of Chemically Modified Hair

This study validates the porosity method against the widely accepted method of tensile strength for determining the hair damage imparted to hair due to cosmetic treatments.

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Startup Solutions: A Survey of Green and Sustainable Innovations

Today is perhaps the most active time in decades for startup firms focused on natural (non-synthetic) and sustainable materials, replacement ingredients, green chemistry and fermentation technologies. This paper surveys several of them.

Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum

The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.

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[video] Student Poster: Elasticity and Foamability of Shower Jellies

According to An Huynh, a student at the University of Toledo, the elasticity of shower gels can be controlled by changing the amount of gelling agent present. Learn more by watching this video interview.

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Shiseido Uncovers Root Cause of Wrinkles and 'Pre-wrinkles'

Shiseido's 3D imaging technology has uncovered the root cause of wrinkles and "pre-wrinkles": an elasticity gap between the stratum corneum and dermis.

Hair Conference Investigates Biology and Material Science of Hair

A running joke has developed at past hair science meetings that the hair research world comprises two camps– “The Friends of the Follicle,” whose focus resides in the biology, and “The Dead Fiber Club,” whose interest lies with the complex material science of this remarkable substrate.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Too Often, Too Hot and Too Long. . .

In this edition of Words from Wiechers, product developers are reminded that if consumers deplete natural moisturizing factor from their skin, e.g., via long, hot showers, they damage their barrier and increase the penetration of anything applied to skin; including mild cleansers.

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