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Section: Formulas/Products > Anti-aging/Face

“We’re thrilled to unveil this year’s shortlist for the 2025 in-cosmetics Global Awards and extend our sincere thanks to our sponsor, Kenvue, for their continued support.'

In-cosmetics Global Unveils the 2025 Award Contenders

In-cosmetics Global has announced the much-anticipated shortlist for the 2025 Awards, to be presented April 8, 2025, in Amsterdam. Competing in seven categories, innovators will go head to head for top honors.

Patent Picks—Plant DNA, Aloesin, Pomegranate and More to Balance Skin

Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features technologies to balance skin condition, including tone, texture, oily and dry zones, and blemishes such as acne, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and scars.

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Old Meets New: Facial Mapping and TCM to Reach Booming Markets

Several ingredient examples from Traditional Chinese Medicine folklore are now validated by modern science. This article explores their potential for the aspirational Chinese market and considers how techniques such as facial-mapping demonstrate their efficacy.

GABA Grabs Hold in Personal Care

GABA has appeared in skin care products in both mass market and selective distribution. In many cases products claim to offer quick wrinkle-free results.

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[in-cosmetics Global] Simply Skin

In addition to the latest-hyped market trends, some in-cosmetics exhibitors simply focused the basics of skin moisture, elasticity, nourishment and even the effects of stress. Following are a few examples.

Raw Material State of the Industry

In the past year, the industry has witnessed continued progress in the R&D of anti-aging and skin repair actives, texture and sensory effects, green and natural ingredient sources, and methodologies to substantiate claims. While these currently remain major areas of focus for today’s personal care product developers, several emerging trends are worth noting. Following are the editor’s choice of top five areas to watch in 2013.

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Supplier Roundtable: Full-spectrum Protection

Full-spectrum protection has the potential to protect skin not just from the UVA/UVB light that the personal care industry has long focused on, but also from blue light. Here, experts weigh in on how to utilize this technology.

This 'Read the Label' analyzes Selfless by Hyram's Mandelic Acid & Rice Bran Gentle Exfoliating Serum, which is said to impart gentle exfoliation on the skin with a blend of PHAs, salicylic acid, niacinamide and more.

Read the Label: Selfless by Hyram—Mandelic Acid & Rice Bran Gentle Exfoliating Serum

This "Read the Label" analyzes Selfless by Hyram's Mandelic Acid & Rice Bran Gentle Exfoliating Serum, which is said to gently exfoliate skin with a blend of PHAs, salicylic acid, niacinamide and more.

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Survey of Skin Research Findings

Cosmetic science has outdone itself this year, with breakthroughs not just emerging, but rolling out in actual applications. Following is a brief literature review of recent skin care findings.

Bromelain and papain are food enzymes found respectively in pineapple and papaya, and often used as cosmetic ingredients.

Enzymology: Accelerating Success in the Skin Care Market

While the benefits of enzymes have long been known, interest in enzymology for cosmetic and dermatological applications has grown. Advances in the functionality, safety and stability of enzymes are accelerating skin care product development; some are described here.

Slowing Intrinsic and Extrinsic Aging: A Dual Approach

In this dual approach to antiaging, intrinsic factors are first addressed by slowing cell proliferation in skin via a technology based on dormins—in this case, extracts from dormant Narcissus tazetta bulb. Then, to protect against extrinsic aging, colorless carotenoids are employed to absorb UV radiation and prevent oxidative stress damage.

Patent Picks—Ellagic Acid, Marine Botanicals, Stem Cells, Cyclodextrin Acetals and More for Anti-aging

Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features technologies related to minimizing the signs of anti-aging and/or testing the effects of anti-aging actives.

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Anti-pollution Cosmetics: In the Face of a Changing Environment

Pollution in different forms and media can cause skin distress of various types. In response, leading global cosmetic companies are turning to a full spectrum of anti-pollution ingredients for answers. Both the negative effects of pollution on skin, and ingredients and products to protect against this damage are reviewed here.

Stem Cells, Wellness and Claims Substantiation Take Center Stage at IFSCC Congress

The 2012 IFSCC Congress opened with a frenzy; the "African Frenzy" dancers, that is, and enlightened attendees over three days with 65+ presentations and more than 150 posters.

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The New Stir in Anti-aging: Small-chain Algal Peptides to Regulate Sulfur

Sulfur regulators such as small chain peptides (SCPs) and sulfide donors are an untapped sector for cosmetic science. The present work explores a natural compound to up-regulate cellular sulfur, affect the cell cycle and reduce signs of aging.

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Microalgal Bio-retinoid: A Retinol Alternative to Gently Rewind Signs of Photoaging

This article compares the efficacy of a bio-retinoid from microalga with that of retinol and bakuchiol to reverse signs of photoaging in vitro. Its efficacy, safety and skin-soothing effects vs. retinol and bakuchiol are also explored in clinical trials.

Anti-aging Skin Care Benefits of Saccharina longicruris Extract

Aging triggers the modification of gene expression levels, negatively affecting skin’s ultrastructural integrity and resulting in dry, saggy skin and the appearance of wrinkles. However, an extract of Saccharina longicruris has been found to restore the expression levels of specific genes in senescent fibroblasts, in turn improving barrier function and hydration, increasing elasticity and reducing wrinkles, which are described in this article.

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Building Collagen, Boosting Immunity and Returning to Nature: In-Cosmetics Paris

Black pepper berries, anyone? How about bitter greens, manilkara leaf, corn, or a little stevia? These are among the numerous resources into which raw material suppliers have tapped to design new solutions for finished cosmetic and personal care manufacturers.

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