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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives

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Olivem® 2090, Hallstar’s new W/O cold process emulsifier, helps create naturally elegant sunscreens

New cold-process, nature-derived W/O emulsifier Olivem® 2090 is especially well-suited to sun care formulating.

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Has DSM-Firmenich Put Us on a Path to a New U.S. Sunscreen Approval?

DSM-Firmenich has submitted its Parsol Shield (INCI: Bemotrizinol) UV filter to the FDA for review in hopes of earning it a GRASE status and inclusion in the U.S. OTC Sunscreen Monograph. This would be the first new sunscreen added in 25 years.

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European Commission Authorizes MBBT Sunscreens

The European Commission (EC) announced amendments to Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, aka the Cosmetics Regulation, regarding newly authorized sunscreens.

Interest in Korean sunscreen is up 194% in the past two years, popular thanks to their 'advanced formulations, lightweight textures and effective sun protection.'

6 Cosmetic Trends: Korean Sunscreens, Cosmax, Kylie Cosmetics x Crumbl, 'Waxy' Hair and More

Each week, C&T digs into rising trends in consumer web searches/hashtags related to cosmetics. Emerging now are: Kylie Cosmetics x Crumbl, M.A.C. Cosmetics, Makeup by Mario Plumping Serum, Korean sunscreen, summer nails and waxy hair. Read on for more.

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Proposed SAFE Sunscreen Standards Act Gives U.S. Consumers New Hope for Better Sun Protection

The legislation was introduced to streamline the FDA's review process of the effectiveness and safety of new ingredients for nonprescription sunscreens.

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Are Your Sunscreens Infra-ready? New In vitro Method Puts Data Behind the Claims

Considering more and more sun care products are claiming infrared (IR) protection, it is important to standardize the parameters by which they are evaluated. Since IR-A and IR-B are the most implicated in skin damage, a test method was developed based on these wavelengths, as described here.

Using Zinc Oxide in Sunscreen Products

While zinc oxide had been used for decades in sunscreen products — remember the white coating on lifeguards’ noses? — it was only approved for this use by the FDA approximately 10 years ago. Prior to that, it was actually considered to be (and still is) an approved skin protectant material.

UV Booster for Organic Sunscreen Actives

Croda has introduced a patented citrate ester demonstrating benefits in sun protection. The booster works with organic sunscreen actives to optimize absorption of the UVA spectra and prevent damage to the skin.

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Patent Pick: Sensory in Spray Sunscreen

Patent Picks are chosen by the editors from publicly available sources. Today's invention is a sprayable gel sunscreen with good feel properties from Honeywell International.

Controlling the Spreading of Sunscreen Products

Spreading control agents used in the formulation of topically applied drugs, especially sunscreens, provide a method to control dosage and improve effectiveness. These materials have recently begun to solve the problem of insufficient product application in actual use.

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Wellness, Eco Mindedness and Luxury Drive Sunscreen Demand — Natural Powders Offer a Solution [free webinar]

To align with consumer demand for eco-conscious, effective and sensorial sunscreens, formulators are getting creative. Natural and biodegradable fine powders can boost efficacy and improve aesthetics to meet these demands; a free webinar explains.

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Formula Focus: Mineral Waterless Sunscreen SPF 50

This editor's pick from The Hallstar Company is a waterless, water-resistant and preservative-free formulation designed to provide SPF 50.

Patent Picks—Timed Sunscreens, Wood Extract, Wash-on Protection, UV in Hair and More in Sun

Patent Picks are compiled by Cosmetics & Toiletries editors. Taken from publicly available sources, they cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and related peripheral markets. This edition features inventions relevant to sun care.

W/O/W Technology to Enhance Organic UVA/UVB Sunscreen Performance

A new water-in-oil-in-water technology is described here that functions as an isolating shield, preventing UV filter particles from aggregating and helping their dispersion in formulas. The technology is shown in vitro and in vivo to improve SPF performance, UVA/UVB wide band high protection ratio, SPF sustainability and safety concerns regarding skin penetration.

Coated Inorganic Filters For Elegant And Protective Sunscreens

Coated Inorganic Filters for Elegant and Protective Sunscreens

Inorganic UV filters must be distributed evenly to ensure sun protection. Further, they can present challenges of a pasty consistency and undesirable opacity when applied to skin. This paper therefore describes strategies using micronized titanium dioxide with different coatings to optimize its dispersion and protective benefits while improving processing and aesthetics.

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Patent Pick: Anti-acne Sunscreen with Salicylic Acid

A recent L'Oréal patent application discloses a sunscreen formulation with anti-acne properties thanks to the inclusion of salicylic acid and one additional acne active. The formula reportedly is stable and effective.

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The Best Sunscreen? The One People Will Use.

This guest advisor commentary comes from regular Cosmetics & Toiletries contributor and photochemistry expert Craig Bonda, president of Inception Partners, LLC, and technical consultant to the sunscreen industry.

Controlling Hydroxyl Radical Formulation in TiO2 Sunscreens

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is an effective sunscreen agent but its rutile form may produce hydroxyl radicals upon exposure to sunlight. Thus, the authors use salicylic acid as a capture agent to examine the development of free radicals in solutions or creams containing TiO2. They also explain how the choice of emulsion may reduce free radical generation.

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