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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives
Sun Care
Letter to the Editor: Criticisms of 'Safer Solar Protection' Article
"My feeling is that the paper by Stanek and Gupta, in its present form, might add to the sunscreen confusion." In this letter to the editor, Paolo Giacomoni, Ph.D., provides his opinion on what the authors missed.
Skin Care
Development of a Novel, Soothing Tissue Incorporating Phase-change Materials
Frequent and repetitive tissue use can lead to inflammation of the nasal area. While technologies were already marketed to help minimize and prevent further irritation, none had targeted the heat and redness associated with an already inflamed nose. This presented a market need but several formulating challenges. Described here are the steps taken to find a practical solution to these challenges.
Literature/Data
Shiseido Uncovers Skin Softening Anti-wrinkle Mechanism of Pure Retinol
Skin softening prevents the progression of wrinkles from the surface of the skin to its deeper layers, according to Shiseido research.
Actives
Summit Cosmetics Europe Offers Bio-GoldGinseng, K-Beauty Ingredient
From Korean supplier GFC co., ltd., Gold ginseng is made from a rare Korean ginseng with golden berries. It is rich in saponin (ginsenoside), which gives it properties without any toxicity, per Summit Cosmetics Europe.
Actives
A Daily Deo-care for the Comfort of the Underarms
SILAB presents DEOLYA®, a natural deodorant and soothing active ingredient from meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria L.). Combining hygiene and skin care, it limits odors and relieves irritations of the delicate zone of the underarms.
Actives
The anti-senescence ally to defy the signs of time
SILAB presents SENEVISIUM®, a natural anti-aging active ingredient that reactivates the natural elimination of senescent fibroblasts by the immune system for an anti-wrinkle action and a rapid radiance-boosting effect.
Tech Transfer
Microbe Interactions and Skin at
C&T Summit
The skin harbors populations of non-pathogenic, commensal microorganisms, which have important functions in skin health and disease. Elucidating these relationships will provide a foundation for approaches to strengthen and enhance the skin barrier in health and disease.
Claims/Labeling
Cosmetic Safety: Public Perception and Scientific Reality
As far as the public is concerned, hypothetical risks are real. And if anyone studies a chemical in depth, they can find some effect but whether it should be removed from the market comes down to a risk-benefit analysis. Cosmetic formulation is a continuous process of keeping in step with research, and when a true risk emerges, addressing it.
Skin Care
C&T
Formulary: Sensitive Skin and Baby Care
If you're like many consumers, maybe you've jumped aboard the "sensitive skin" bandwagon. And who's to say there isn't some truth to this complaint? The environment has certainly changed, so it seems logical that skin would change in response. Whether it's fact or placebo, this collection of formulas for sensitive skin, including baby care, offer product developers some novel options for this growing market.
Literature/Data
Spaceflight Shifts the Microbiome and Skin Condition
The effects of spaceflight on the skin microbiome and structure, and subsequent changes in skin health, sensitivity and the onset of conditions are described in a recent review published in
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology
.
Actives
TCM Botanical Blend for Acne and Inflammation
This blend is a botanical solution aimed not only at inflammatory triggers but also inflammation itself.
Efficacy
[podcast] Naturals and Synthetics: On Even Ground?
Burt’s Bees may be best known for its lip balm but things are about to change; at least, if Celeste Lutrario, vice president of research and development for the company, has it her way.
Actives
Eye Lift and Lightening Active from Sederma
Sederma has created an active that improves the appearance of the eye area. Beautifeye (INCI: Not Provided) takes a dual-action approach to treat the contour of the eye.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Evergreen and Kunzea Sebum Control
Mary Kay inventors have tapped into two natural solutions to unclog pores and treat acne, according to a new patent: the evergreen
Psidium guajava
and
Kunzea ericoides
(kunaka).
Actives
Baobab for Food, Pharma-, Nutra- and Cosmeceuticals
Baobab pulp can be used to make juices and energy drinks; the seed oil, leaves and bark can be used in creams, masks, shampoos, conditioners, lotions and exfoliants.
Cleansing
Comparatively Speaking: The INCI Names vs. Properties of Silicone Surfactants
Surface tension is a ruling factor in the formulator's world. In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," Tony O'Lenick explains its influence on foam and wetting; he also demonstrates how little the INCI name reveals about a material's properties.
Actives
A Peptide to Influence the Melanogenic Symphony of Skin Pigmentation
Inspired by the roles of transforming growth factor-β and MITF in skin pigmentation, an active based on oligopeptide-68 was developed to influence these entities. In vitro, oligopeptide-68 is shown to abrogate the stimulatory effects of α-MSH on melanin pigment formation. In addition, clinical results demonstrate the peptide imparts significant and progressive whitening/lightening effects on skin.
Cosmetic Ingredients
How the ‘Stuff’ in Formulations Impacts the Delivery of Actives
Formulations contain many ingredients that are vital for some important function, such as providing stability. However, what does this “stuff” do in terms of helping or (usually) hindering the delivery of the all-important active? And how much of the active is actually available to deliver? A few simple questions and measurements, described here, can provide a wealth of insight.
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