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306 Results
Type: Article
Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives
Literature/Data
The Latest in Whitening Agents
In recent years, new agents, especially from plants, have been discovered and extracted to test for their depigmenting effects in vitro and in vivo. This article reviews these most recent skin whitening agents of interest, whose efficacy, mechanism and safety have been tested.
Color Cosmetics
Get the Perfect Lipstick: Boost Oil-binding Capacity with Natural Waxes
With lipsticks being front and center to the human face, it's important to get their balance right not only for the perception of the product, but of the consumer.
Color Cosmetics
Copolymer to Improve Pigment Dispersion in Lipsticks
Lipstick is formulated with pigments for the obvious reason of color, but formulators always face the same technical difficulties of pigment dispersion and final shade matching. The present article explores solving these two lipstick dilemmas with an amphiphilic copolymer to improve pigment dispersion and texture of lipsticks.
Skin Care
Introducing Argassential™: Sustainable Argan for Plumper, Firmer Skin and Lips
The newest ingredient from BASF’s Sustainable Argan Program is clinically proven to plump and firm the skin through collagen production and optimized adipogenesis.
Color Cosmetics
Lip-smacking Results: Mixture Design ‘Pays Off’ to Optimize Wax/Oil Lipstick Ratio
This article explores Mixture Design for lipstick development. The approach models the blending surface with a suitable mathematical equation to identify ideal ingredient ratios. As is shown here, Mixture Design can effectively optimize lipstick formulations, saving development time and costs.
Sun Protection
The Best Sunscreen? The One People Will Use.
This guest advisor commentary comes from regular
Cosmetics & Toiletries
contributor and photochemistry expert Craig Bonda, president of Inception Partners, LLC, and technical consultant to the sunscreen industry.
Method/Process
The Effect of Skin Metabolism on the Absorption of Chemicals
Skin expresses enzymes that can metabolize endogenous molecules but little is known regarding how they impact the delivery of xenobiotics. This review of recent works shows that skin metabolism alters the dermal absorption of lipophilic compounds, which opens new areas of investigation regarding the safety and efficacy of topically applied cosmetics.
Method/Process
The Effect of Skin Metabolism on the Absorption of Chemicals
Skin expresses enzymes that can metabolize endogenous molecules but little is known regarding how they impact the delivery of xenobiotics. This review of recent works shows that skin metabolism alters the dermal absorption of lipophilic compounds, which opens new areas of investigation regarding the safety and efficacy of topically applied cosmetics.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Lipstick Gloss, Probiotics, Anti-acne, Cosmetic Films, Heat Shock Proteins and More for Skin
Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions related to cosmetics and skin care, including heat to improve lipstick gloss and probiotics for oily skin, as well as heat shock proteins, FABACs, improved vitamin C derivatives, an anti-acne blend, a skin-smoothing cosmetic film and a photo-initiated filler from the medical field.
Actives
Part II: The Clinical Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH), found in Part I to stimulate the production of elastic fibers in vitro, was next tested in vivo for its capacity to improve skin elasticity parameters, using various biophysical and imaging techniques. Significant differences in facial ptosis and extensibility were observed in the 56-day, vehicle-controlled clinical study described here.
Literature/Data
The Effect of Glycerol on the Water-holding Capacity of Chemically Irritated Skin*
Glycerol is one humectant commonly employed due to its high hygroscopic and hyperosmotic properties. It is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and in pharmaceutical formulations as an active compound.2 Being naturally present in the skin, glycerol was quickly identified for its role in skin hydration, similar to natural moisturizing factors (NMF).
Actives
Meeting the UVA Challenge: Inorganic-only Sun Protection
The production of a range of titanium dioxide-based dispersions is explored to provide enhanced UVA protection, in comparison with ultrafine titanium dioxide. Formulations containing these dispersions as the only active are shown to achieve a UVA protection factor that is 1/3 of the labeled SPF value, thus meeting European Commission recommendations.
Methods/Tools
Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception
This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.
Actives
Meeting the UVA Challenge: Inorganic-only Sun Protection
The production of a range of titanium dioxide-based dispersions is explored to provide enhanced UVA protection, in comparison with ultrafine titanium dioxide. Formulations containing these dispersions as the only active are shown to achieve a UVA protection factor that is 1/3 of the labeled SPF value, thus meeting European Commission recommendations.
Anti-aging/Face
Part I: The In vitro Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH) was found to stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin in cultured human dermal fibroblasts as well as augment the activity of all important actors in the assembly of elastic fibers, including Fibrillin 1, Fibulin 5, Decorin, LOX and Transglutaminase, among others. This is shown here both in monolayer cell cultures and in a 3D skin model.
Methods/Tools
Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception
This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.
Actives
Don’t Count On Genetics, Sunscreens are the Best Bet
In a podcast with P&G scientists Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. and Rosemarie Osborne, Ph.D.,
Cosmetics & Toiletries
learned about genetic studies in support of the Olay brand, and more. Following is an excerpt.
Efficacy
A Sunny Proposition: The Effects of Sun on Hair
While not nearly as well-documented as skin, plenty of literature indicates the sun can have damaging effects on hair.
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