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Type: Article

Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives

Targeting The Cutaneous Nervous Network

A synthetic agent with neurotrophic and antioxidant properties has been designed to protect the skin’s sensory neurons from environmental stress and neurodegenerescence, preserving certain physiological responses controlled by the central nervous system.

Gel Network Fundamentals at C&T Summit

Gel networks are at the base of many modern skin care products and hair conditioners, and their formulation is fairly straightforward. During the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit, George Deckner and Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr., will present, in hands-on formulation workshops, the practical aspects of gel network-based o/w emulsions for skin and hair care.

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Epigenetic Fibroblast Revival

BASF’s latest bioactive botanical, Dermagenist™, revives aged fibroblasts, resulting in improved skin firmness and a strengthened matrix. Dermagenist is an Origanum majorana leaf extract powder that restores balance to the skin cycle by altering the epigenetic patterns of cells to reverse the signs of aging

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Study Shows How Eczema is Genetic

A study published in Genome Biology and Evolution found that atopic dermatitis (eczema) is likely to hitchhike a ride with mutated hornerin and make the skin disease genetic.

Exploring the Depths of Percutaneous Penetration

The Perspectives in Percutaneous Penetration (PPP) conference recently was held at the Palais des Congrès de La Grande Motte. Following are some highlights most relevant to the cosmetics and personal care industry.

Penetration And Metabolism Of Isoflavones In Human Skin

This human study shows that the isoflavone aglycone genistein penetrates significantly better into the skin when it is formulated in a liposomal preparation. The corresponding isoflavone glycoside genistin is not hydrolyzed to the biologically active aglycones upon topical application.

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Rubbing Shoulders with Massage for Improved Penetration

Rubbing is a common application method for topical products, though evidence of its efficacy remains scarce. The present article reviews research in support of this application theory. It also identifies what investigation is still needed.

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Don’t Count On Genetics, Sunscreens are the Best Bet

In a podcast with P&G scientists Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. and Rosemarie Osborne, Ph.D., Cosmetics & Toiletries learned about genetic studies in support of the Olay brand, and more. Following is an excerpt.

Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum

The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Without Penetration, No Delivery

This somewhat tongue-in-cheek edition of our "Words from Wiechers" series offers insight to improve the efficacy of actives.

Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum

The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.

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Build the Basics, Optimize Products, Formulate Naturals and Penetrate Skin

In addition to courses for the beginning chemist, natural products and optimization of formulas, Cosmetics & Toiletries has added Physiology of the Skin, featuring Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, to its online training program. Buy at Suppliers' Day and save! Visit booth 1345.

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Elicitation of Rice Tissue Culture to Maximize Skin Epigenetic Modulation

Meristem cells of Himalayan red rice were cultured and elicited to produce secondary metabolites. Through an in vitro assay, rejuvenation was shown at the epigenetic level of treated cells. An increased expression of dermatopontin in keratinocytes, besides being a novel finding, implies that ReGeniStem™ Red Rice may be able to firm the skin and improve the skin barrier function.

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Epi-On™– Holistic skin recovery through epigenetic pathway – efficacy study

A weakened skin barrier can be vulnerable and irritated to the environment. With the cold weather coming, our skin barrier needs a faster restorative and rejuvenating treatment.

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Cosmetic Victories Finalist Profile: Penetrating Peptide for Enhanced ROS Elimination

Human eosinophil cationic protein was utilized as a carrier in this invention from ImDerma Laboratories to quickly penetrate skin cells and deliver high antioxidant efficacy with a low dose of EGCG.

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Over the Top: Histone Deacetylase Inhibitors for Restorative Epigenetic Skin Care

The skin care industry has begun to explore epigenetics to ameliorate skin conditions. Within this field, histone deacetylase inhibitors (HDACis) are of interest thanks to their potent anti-inflammatory and other anti-aging effects. This article reviews their activity and utility.

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Elicitation of Rice Tissue Culture to Maximize Skin Epigenetic Modulation

Meristem cells of Himalayan red rice were cultured and elicited to produce secondary metabolites. Through an in vitro assay, rejuvenation was shown at the epigenetic level of treated cells. An increased expression of dermatopontin in keratinocytes, besides being a novel finding, implies that ReGeniStem™ Red Rice may be able to firm the skin and improve the skin barrier function.

Patent Picks— Electromagnetic Radiation, Omentum, Plant Extracts, Growth Factors, Gingerone and More

Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features patents related to active ingredients for skin benefits and to address hair loss.

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