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Section: Testing
SPF/Sun
[podcast] Sunscreen Innovation Act Update: MUsT Test and Penetration Potential
"What’s changed with respect to sunscreen evaluation is ... the test model they are using now is designed for drugs ...and has never been applied previously for the sunscreens," Epstein reports.
Literature/Data
Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory Effects of CBD Confirmed in Keratinocytes
A study published in the
Journal of Natural Products
confirms the mechanism through which cannabidiol (CBD) exerts antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions in human skin keratinocytes.
Methods/Tools
Givaudan Launches i-MAPS Microbiome Profiling for Personalized Products
Every profile provides exclusive information about the bacteria present in the microbiome and correlates it to a skin type such as oily, dry, sensitive or aging.
Method/Process
Advanced Methods Measure Skin Penetrants at the Parts-Per-Billion Level: Part II
Part I of this Dermatologic View column appeared in the January issue of
C&T
magazine and described advanced methods to measure skin penetration such as Inductively Coupled Plasma-Mass Spectrometry (ICP-MS) and Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometry (AAS). Here, the authors continue this investigation of advanced methods to measure skin penetration.
Method/Process
A High Throughput Method to Predict Skin Penetration and Screen Topical Formulations
This work studies the applicability of a 96-well-based skin-mimetic artificial membrane permeability model to differentiate between topical pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. Results are compared with data obtained from in vitro Franz cell permeability measurements and reveal the applicability of this method to assess cosmetic formulation permeation and speed the discovery process.
Method/Process
Fluorescence LSCM to Assess the Penetration of Low Molecular Protein Hydrolyzates Into Hair
The present study uses confocal laser scanning fluorescence microscopy to assess the penetration of protein hydrolyzates into hair. While higher amounts of protein were found in the cuticle, still significant quantities were observed in the cortical parts of hair, and this penetration was enhanced by longer incubation times.
Literature/Data
Topical Antioxidant and Silymarin Serum Improves Facial Acne
After four weeks of product use, subjects showed statistically significant improvement in skin clarity, skin tone evenness and PIH/PIE which continued to improve through week 12.
Method/Process
A Dermatological View: Antioxidant Inhibits UV Erythema In Vivo in Humans
Described here was an in vivo model to determine antioxidative capacity of a topical skin care emulsion versus the emulsion’s vehicle on human skin that was exposed to UVR. Results suggest the test emulsion and its vehicle control inhibited the induction of erythema and reduced inflammation caused by the UV exposure.
Method/Process
Evaluating Essential Oils in Cosmetics: Antioxidant Capacity and Functionality
In the present work, the antioxidant capacities of three essential oils derived from basil and thyme were evaluated using a photochemiluminescence (PCL)-based assay. In addition, since the base formulation can affect the antioxidant activity of oils contained therein, ingredient interactions within final formulations were investigated.
Animal Alternatives
Givaudan Joins Animal-Free Safety Assessment Collaboration
Givaudan has also pledged to contribute to real-world case studies in animal-free safety assessment.
Animal Alternatives
Global Experts Outline Next-gen, Animal-alternative Cosmetic Test Tenets
With animal testing for the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients and products banned in the EU, new methods are required to ensure human safety. As such, an international working group has compiled nine guiding principles to lead the development of new test methods.
Method/Process
Evaluating Essential Oils in Cosmetics: Antioxidant Capacity and Functionality
In the present work, the antioxidant capacities of three essential oils derived from basil and thyme were evaluated using a photochemiluminescence (PCL)-based assay. In addition, since the base formulation can affect the antioxidant activity of oils contained therein, ingredient interactions within final formulations were investigated.
Method/Process
A Dermatological View: Antioxidant Inhibits UV Erythema In Vivo in Humans
Described here was an in vivo model to determine antioxidative capacity of a topical skin care emulsion versus the emulsion’s vehicle on human skin that was exposed to UVR. Results suggest the test emulsion and its vehicle control inhibited the induction of erythema and reduced inflammation caused by the UV exposure.
Testing
BASF, Givaudan and IIVS Team Up for Animal Testing Alternative
The improved skin sensitization reactivity method will address the needs of toxicologists and regulators, predicting the potency of a sensitizer without the need for animal testing.
Method/Process
Fluorescence Laser Scanning Confocal Microscopy to Assess the Penetration of Low Molecular Protein Hydrolyzates Into Hair
The present study uses confocal laser scanning fluorescence microscopy to assess the penetration of protein hydrolyzates into hair. While higher amounts of protein were found in the cuticle, still significant quantities were observed in the cortical parts of hair, and this penetration was enhanced by longer incubation times.
Literature/Data
Safeguarding Squalene: Lemon Myrtle Antioxidant for Pollution Protection and Oleostasis
Squalene becomes easily oxidized when exposed to pollution and UV radiation, which promotes skin inflammation, the production of poor-quality sebum, comedogenesis and wrinkling. Lemon myrtle leaf extract neutralizes squalene oxidation and can protect all ethnic skin types from environmentally induced oily skin, restoring oleostasis.
Method/Process
Stability Testing Guidance for Product Safety and Shelf-life Insight
Routine stability testing provides cosmetic manufacturers critical data about a product’s safety and shelf life. While not required by legislation, these tests can ensure the successful marketing of products. The present paper provides and overview of the basics manufacturers should cover when stability testing products.
Literature/Data
Givaudan Active Beauty Leads the Way in Skin Microbiome Research
At Givaudan, innovation is in our DNA: we thrive on the challenge of constantly pushing boundaries to develop new ideas and enhance existing concepts. In a bid to take our Active Beauty cosmetic ingredients to the next level, seven years ago we launched a pioneering research project into the relationship between the human microbiome and our health, beauty and well-being. Discover our dedicated video and be conquered.
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