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Section: Testing

Alison Pawlus, Ph.D., Aveda/The Estée Lauder Companies

[podcast] Senescence to Understand Aging in Hair

Aging is a common denominator across not just cultures but substrates. Here, Alison Pawlus, Ph.D., of Aveda, describes a test based on cell senescence to measure the effects of aging in hair and identify ways to mitigate them. Listen now!

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ACS Analyzes Microscopic Views of Hair Interaction

The ACS announced at its 236th meeting that it has carried out a microscopic analysis of hair fibers interacting with each other. The researchers find that this information will be beneficial to cosmetic chemists who formulate hair repair products.

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Testing Trending Hair Care and Skinification Claims

Various test methods, some borrowed from skin care, can be used to validate hair product claims. This article reviews several, including conditioning, anti-breakage, hydration, skinification-related, damage repair, anti-dandruff, anti-hair loss and more.

FDA Publishes Opinion on Two Sunscreen TEAs and Is Urged for More Action by PASS

The end of February was busy for the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which published two letters on the Time and Extent Applications (TEAs) for diethylhexyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb HEB) and amiloxate (Neo Heliopan E 1000), finding insufficient scientific evidence to claim either as generally recognized as safe and effective (GRASE) and denying their addition to the OTC Sunscreen Monograph.

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2026 C&T Allē Awards Portal is Open — Beauty Innovation Abounds: Show Us Your Stuff

With beauty innovation abuzz, especially around spring trade shows, Cosmetics & Toiletries is excited to open the 2026 Allē Awards submission portal. Show us what you've got!

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Editor’s Note: New Frontiers in Hair Follicles

Could the exosome be a new frontier for healthy hair? What about “growing” benefits within the fiber itself? These advances suggest hair is not as “dead” as we thought; or at the very least, the living portion can be influenced. This issue is focused on textured hair treatments and biology, emotional ties to hair, low-water surfactants, water resistance vs. rheology and more.

Hair Ethnicity and Ellipticity: A Preliminary Study

Ethnic hair care addresses diverse fiber compositions that require unique products. This comprehensive review in hair fiber dimensions among straight, wavy and curly/coily hair serves as a basis from which product developers can design products to cater to unique hair type needs. The current study examines the ellipticity of Caucasian, Brazilian, Hispanic and African-American hair.

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Tress Stress: How the Environment Affects Hair

The drive for "anti-pollution" personal care may not apply to hair care as strongly as other segments. Despite this, environmental stressors can impact hair's chemistry. This column provides a scientific basis by which formulation and claims strategies might be constructed.

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A Soft Touch—Concepts in Hair Softness

Softness technically seems the opposite of stiffness but measuring properties related to fiber stiffness is difficult due to hair’s anisotropic structure. And while hair is technically “softened” at elevated humidity, this is the definition of a “bad hair day.” Improving fiber flexibility without adversely impacting breakage seems a sound technical strategy... Click through to read more in the digital magazine.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: In the Land of the Blind, the One-eyed Man is King

"Regulatory bodies claim that everything should be tested against a placebo, but they should also learn to see there is a difference between fundamental science and applied science," the late Johann Wiechers, Ph.D., writes, in this month's column. He also explains blinded studies.

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Oxygen Breathes Life Into Hair Regeneration Research

Oxygen-permeable silicone was the key to recent research in Biomaterials, developed in hopes to bring about new hair regeneration treatments.

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L'Oréal Research Confirms: Pollution Degrades Hair Structure

According to the authors, besides hair, these results also point toward possible detrimental effects in other human tissues.

Flexabrasion: A Method for Evaluating Hair Strength

Both bending and abrasion should be tested—along with extension—when evaluating hair strength, as the authors show in tests of a new active for increasing the strength of bleached hair.

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Analyzing Deposition from Rinse-off Hair Products

The most common approach to determine ingredient deposition on hair is to analyze the treated tresses, but this poses several challenges. Instead, the authors describe a novel approach based on determining the amount of ingredient collected in the rinse water, and back-calculating the amount deposited on hair. Development and validation efforts discussed here use polydimethylsiloxane as a model compound.

Using Texture Analysis to Substantiate Hair Care Claims

Texture analysis provides quantitative information about a material’s response when deformed by a controlled force. When texture analysis is applied to hair treated with various conditioners and styling fixatives, the results can help substantiate claims made about the effectiveness of these hair care products.

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Adaptive Measures: Translating UV Protection to Hair Claims

To test preventative hair care treatments against UV damage, sensitive techniques are required. Here, DSC was used to define a ratio between artificial and natural irradiance levels; from this, methods were built to substantiate claims for UV protection in hair.

Literature Review: Damage, Growth and Conditioning in Hair

This survey of recent literature relates to assessing hair damage, reducing dye allergy, increasing and inhibiting hair growth, cleansing and conditioning hair, and more. The papers are presented as food for thought in the early stages of the product development process, and may warrant deeper investigation.

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Coiffed Conundrum: Equating the Measurement of Hair Shine

Shine constitutes the ability for light to reflect off of surfaces. For consumers, perceived shine is indicative of healthy hair. For marketers, it is the gateway to hair product benefits claims. But how can shine be measured to support those claims?

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