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Method/Process
CBD in Effect: Correlating In vitro and Ex vivo Skin Benefits
Primary biological functions of the skin barrier, immune system, lipids, free radicals and extracellular matrix are, in fact, impacted by CBD, as a poster and podium presentation by Genemarkers at SCC Annual demonstrated.
Literature/Data
Sabinsa's Research Shows Lactosporin as Anti-acne and -aging Active
Research on Sabinsa’s cosmeceutical Lactosporin has been shown to impart anti-acne benefits and is among the first published human clinical studies examining a probiotic metabolite; additional in vitro study examined its anti-aging properties.
Literature/Data
P&G Research Shows Reducing Scalp Stress Improves Hair Anchoring
P&G Beauty's KeepItAnchored hair loss brand has published a series of studies finding that controlling oxidative stress in the scalp reduces hair loss.
Efficacy
Terminalia Chebula
for Preventive and Restorative Anti-aging Benefits*
This paper examines a tannin-enriched
Terminalia chebula
extract. Discussed are its mechanisms for preventative and restorative anti-aging effects, and skin pigmentation control. A pilot clinical study further confirms the extract’s bioactivity to reduce wrinkles and pigmentation. Improvements in yellowish skin tones also were observed, likely due to glycation reversal.
Skin Care
Beware: Blue Light Damage On The Rise
Blue light is becoming more prevalent across the industry as suppliers are recognizing the significance of the damage caused by both sunlight and technology. A few industry professionals shared tips on prevention and treatment for said damage.
Magazine
Brown Seaweed Ferment Propagates UV Damage Protection for Skin
To prevent and repair UV-induced skin damage, a sustainable ingredient was developed from
Sargassum vulgare
, a brown seaweed that naturally evolved phlorotannins to defend against UV damage.
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Literature/Data
Firing Up the Cannabinoid Cosmetics Debate at SCC Annual
Cannabinoids have fired up great interest (and to some extent, alarm) from the cosmetics industry, both for their broad potential but also their regulatory status. During the recent SCC Annual Meeting, a few presenters shared what the science says about these potent actives.
Sun Care
Safer Solar Protection Part II, Going Beyond UV Defense
Recent research has focused on nature’s ways of protecting living organisms, from plankton and cyanobacteria to humans, from the sun. With the proper topical delivery systems, some of these biomechanisms may prove beneficial to consumers and marketers.
Sun Care
In Light of Exposure: Understanding Avobenzone Part II, Application
Avobenzone is a widely used organic UV filter. Its dynamic nature and unique properties are responsible for its widespread use and forms. This second in a two-part series considers avobenzone’s behavior with other sunscreens and in formulas; part one reviewed its characteristics and behavior in solvents.
Actives
Old Meets New: Facial Mapping and TCM to Reach Booming Markets
Several ingredient examples from Traditional Chinese Medicine folklore are now validated by modern science. This article explores their potential for the aspirational Chinese market and considers how techniques such as facial-mapping demonstrate their efficacy.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Active Transport: How Rheology Modifiers and Preservatives Impact Release
This study explores two formula parameters that could potentially influence the diffusion of an active through a hydrogel: the gelling agent and the preservative system. Here, caffeine was used as the active, along with a range of 12 gelling agents in a simple hydrogel formulation, with and without preservatives.
Actives
Brassica
Breakthrough: Herbal Anti-acne Alternative Proves Clinically Effective
While there are numerous topical and systemic treatments for acne, antibiotic resistance and toxic interactions are a challenge. This article explores the clinical efficacy of a
Brassica oleracea
blend as an alternative topical acne treatment.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Testing Tactics in Skin: A View of Visible Light Protection
Blue light, in particular, may be responsible for most of the adverse skin reactions caused by visible wavelengths. This column reviews methods to screen for materials that protect against blue light but also allow its benefits to shine through.
Event Coverage
Snail Slime, MMP-2 Trigger and More: Advances in Delivery and Efficacy at IFSCC19
Using the same approach to develop or test a product will not result in a step-change innovation. For this reason, new solutions to deliver, develop and test product efficacy were presented during the 2019 IFSCC Conference.
Color Cosmetics
Eye Opener: Combined Formulation Strategy Ensures Mascara Success
This article reviews the key components of mascara formulations, including waxes, film-formers, fillers—and importantly, packaging. Test formulations are created here using a combined strategy for ingredient selection and assembly, and assessed for various properties.
Actives
Oak, Green Tea and Orange Derivatives to Disrupt JAK/STAT, NF-κB Irritation Pathways
Activation of NF-κB and JAK/STAT pathways in keratinocytes leads to the release of immunomodulating factors that sustain an amplification loop between the keratinocyte and infiltrating immune cell, leading to skin irritation. To disrupt this loop, two complexes, one based on oak and green tea extracts, and another on orange flavonoids, were developed and are shown here to immediately soothe skin.
Methods/Tools
Into the Blue: Novel Test Reveals Blue Light Damage, Protection Strategies
The negative effects of visible or blue light on skin are not fully understood. This article describes a model to test for potential damage and screen for compounds to suppress it. Results confirm blue light induces cutaneous damage, and a 3-D strategy of UV filters, vitamins and plant extracts suppresses it.
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