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Hair Damage and Repair Literature: Sweet Potato Sochu and Red Clover

Hair thinning and loss; nourishing and bonding treatments; and scalp, curl and color care are among today's top concerns and trends in hair care. As such, we offer the following brief literature review with a look at recent research related to hair repair and damage.

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Cold Stress Damage, Banished: Daphne odora Extract Improves Skin Moisture and Healing

Cold stress can affect the integrity of the skin. In relation, compounds synthesized by plants under environmental stress have been characterized for their protective effects; although limited data relates to cold stress. This article explores an extract from Daphne odora cell cultures to address cold stress-related damage including dryness, cutaneous micro-lesions and inflammation.

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Testing Tactics in Skin: Evaluating Radiance and Texture

Hydrated, even-toned skin with a natural glow, all indicators of health, has gained popularity in the last decade. This article explores the meaning of skin radiance, its relationship to texture and various ways to measure this desired attribute.

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Mitigating 'Maskne:' Boldo to Balance Sebum, Bacteria and Redness in Acneic Skin

Peumus boldus (boldo) extract was tested for effects on sebum production, S. aureus growth and C. acnes lipase activity in vitro, as well as on skin redness in vivo. This work aimed to develop a natural ingredient to control sebum, inhibit microbes and their activity, and reduce redness in acne-αfflicted skin.

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Confounding Labels: One ‘Natural’ = 100+ ‘Chemicals’

As most formulators are aware, creating a product with three or more botanicals in it means a final formula containing more than 200 chemicals. How is this better for skin? It's not, according to this commentary.

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Anti-pollution Skin Care: It's Real

'No kidding it's real,' you're probably thinking. Like naturals, though, at first it felt more like a passing fad. Now we know better, thanks to new research, some of which was presented in London earlier this year.

IFSCC 2014 Explores Social, Psychological and Sensorial Aspects of Beauty

As one might expect from an event centered around beauty and staged in Paris, the 28th Congress of the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) was nothing less than fabulous. However, the glamour and fanfare was deeply rooted in science.

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When Acne Attacks, Hexylresorcinol and Ethyl Linoleate Fight Back: Experimental (part II)

Although P. acnes is a commensal bacterium of normal skin, together with the sebaceous gland, it clearly is implicated in acne. Here, P. acnes and other possible causes are reviewed, and a hexylresorcinol and ethyl linoleate anti-acne treatment to target them is described.

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Sticking it to Hair Damage: Delivery Duo Protects and Repairs Inside and Out

To adequately protect hair from damage, an efficient solution should offer not only high coverage externally, but also penetrate hair to impart reparative effects internally. The present study explores the ability of a dual technology to provide these benefits, as demonstrated via analytical techniques.

Green Formulations: Not All Components Are Equal

In the consumer’s mind, a natural or green cosmetic is automatically safe; however, the safety, quality and efficacy of botanical ingredients used in formulations need to be carefully assessed. Stability is also an important issue. Current research is directing analyses of final formulations to evaluate not only their cosmetic raw materials, but also their active materials.

Studies have demonstrated that wild teasel could be a natural source of bioactive compounds, particularly phenolics and iridoids, and have confirmed its high potential for the cosmetic industry. For example, teasel features strong antioxidant activity, especially in leaf extracts

DNA Metabarcoding Tracks Traceability of Naturals: Wild Teasel Case Study

This study authenticates D. fullonum from raw material to final ingredient. It compares D. fullonum and D. sylvestris in a three-step study by: barcoding the raw material, metabarcoding the two extracts and bioinformatics processing.

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Photostability Leads the Way: Formulating Safer Sunscreens

The need to prevent skin from UV damage is well-understood but the most effective way to achieve this is not. Here, a novel photostabilizer is presented in a test pump sunscreen spray formula as part of a total photoprotection strategy.

Molecular Modeling of Skin care Products: Application for the Design of Pepidomimetics

Molecular modeling has been used in the pharmaceutical industry for years to predict how a new molecule may work based on research conducted with molecules of a similar structure. The cosmetics industry has also begun to use this technology to predict the behavior of new molecules on skin and in skin care applications.

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The Dirty Truth About Pollution-induced Skin Aging: The AhR Pathway Tells All

Studies have shown that exposure to airborne, traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates, these researchers developed an in vitro model to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation of genes indicative for premature aging.

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6 New Trends in Cosmetic Technology

The topics described during in this conference session were but a sampling of innovation scattered throughout the in-cosmetics Global show floor. But their overall tone seemed to accurately reflect a larger future direction of the industry.

In Vitro Methods to Test Materials for Ozone Protective Capabilities

Many markers can be used to indicate epidermal stress. Therefore, it becomes clear that the skin is also a sensitive target to ozone exposure and one that could greatly benefit from cosmetic or personal care materials designed to protect against ozone.

Emotion, Visualization and Innovation at IFSCC in Rio

The IFSCC conference covered an array of subjects—from the psychology of rotating brushes, and discussion of neuron-adipocyte crosstalk to limit emotional stress-mediated fat accumulation; to hair straightening and conditioning, various visualization tools, and novel formulation approaches.

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When Acne Attacks, Hexylresorcinol and Ethyl Linoleate Fight Back (part I)

Although P. acnes is a commensal bacterium of normal skin, together with the sebaceous gland, it clearly is implicated in acne. Here, P. acnes and other possible causes are reviewed, and a hexylresorcinol and ethyl linoleate anti-acne treatment to target them is described.