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Safer Solar Protection: Going Beyond UV Defense, Part I

This two-part article is controversial. In part I, it reviews a number of concerns about the safety of traditional sunscreens. In part II, scheduled for February, the authors propose new approaches to move past these issues.

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Testing Tactics: Decoding Repair and Conditioning Claims to Deliver Real Results in Hair

This article explores the evolving world of hair conditioning and repair, including prevalent bonding claims. It examines what these terms mean, the types of damage being addressed, tests to substantiate these claims and how consumers perceive them.

Ascorbyl Lactoside: A New Vitamin C Derivative for Effective Skin Whitening

A new vitamin C derivative, ascorbyl lactoside (AsL), was synthesized and characterized for its stability and safety, and evaluated for anti-tyrosinase and melanin reduction effects. The material showed excellent whitening effects and exhibited better stability than ascorbic acid. It also possessed the lowest cytotoxicity, in comparison with ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and arbutin.

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Sea Anemone Delivery of Collagen and γ-PGA for Anti-aging Benefits

The effective delivery of youth-preserving collagen and moisture remains a cosmetic Holy Grail. In response, this study describes a natural microinjection system based on the stinging cells of the Cnidaria sea anemone to effectively puncture the stratum corneum layer and deliver its content—both marine collagen and γ-PGA—into skin, offering a promising new class of solutions to age-old challenges.

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Perking Up Skin: Green Coffee Promotes Barrier Recovery, Turn Over and Lightening

Epidermal barrier recovery and the desquamation of dead corneocytes reinvigorate aged skin. Hyperpigmentation accumulates as skin ages. A green coffee bean extract was tested here and found to address these issues.

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Speeding Up R&D: Spotting Clues to Anticipate Stability Problems

Besides directing cosmetic beginners to read the abundant literature in the field of stability, the aim of this article is to give some clues for starting stability matters “with the right foot”—indeed, to anticipate stability problems helps to speed up the R&D process.

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Noninvasive Techniques for Anti-cellulite Product Efficacy Evaluation

Although cellulite is not considered a disease, it is a significant cosmetic problem for many post-adolescent women. Recent studies using new diagnostic techniques such as ultrasound imaging can define the cellulite-reducing efficacy of cosmetics. However, there is still a need to standardize and objectify the testing procedures and to find parameters to measure anti-cellulite efficacy.

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How Bee-friendly Aqueous Propolis ‘Sticks it’ to Microbiota Dysbiosis, Skin Conditions

An aqueous, or white propolis, extract was tested in vitro and shown to affect microbiota connected with skin conditions. In vivo trials also demonstrated the ingredient’s safety and efficacy in reducing skin discomfort, dryness and body odor.

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Infusing New Life into an Old Reliable Skin Treatment: Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde is suitable for many skin care applications, and when combined with other substances becomes even more versatile. One of its newest topical delivery systems provides multifunctional opportunities.

Antiaging in a Different Light: Assessing How Chromophores Color Perception

Aging influences cutaneous parameters that give rise to progressive changes in three skin chromophores, altering the visual homogeneity of skin. To address these changes, the authors developed and examined the effects of a complex based on Siegesbeckia orientalis and Rabdosia rubescens using a novel skin imaging technique.

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Illuminating Skin Radiance: α-Crystallin as a Target to Achieve Glass Skin

A newly developed peptide acts as a bio-highlighter and makeup alternative for a natural, glass skin appearance. Here, it is demonstrated to induce the production of endogenic a-crystallin, a molecular chaperone that plays a crucial role in skin proteostasis.

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Testing Tactics: Approaches to Measure Scalp Comfort and Care

This article describes examples of test methods beyond standard skin hydration, sebum and TEWL measurements being used help create scalp care products that address conditions such as inflammation, redness, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and more.

Whether the industry likes it or not, ingredients or finished formulas require claims substantiation, and neither suppliers nor customers can pass this responsibility on to one another.

Want the Truth: Claims Development is More Than Just Evidence.*

Both marketing and R&D have major responsibilities in the claims development process. But that’s not all—regulations, risk, vulnerabilities, communication, study design, costs and more also are at play. These and other influences in the claims development process are discussed in the present article.

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Testing Tactics: How Sensory Testing Bridges the Gap Between Technology and Consumer Experience

This article delves into the role of sensory testing in the development of cosmetics for skin and hair. Its applications, methodologies and unique place in the innovation toolbox are highlighted, along with expert insights and journal article examples.

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How In silico Innovation is Transforming Cosmetic Ingredient Discovery and Development

This article delves into in silico methods including AI and machine learning for cosmetic ingredient discovery and development. It covers virtual screening, QSAR analyses and molecule repurposing, and gives a case study in progress for psoriasis peptides.