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Section: Research

Polypodium leucotomos and Other Topics

Polypodium leucotomos extract to decrease UV-induced damage: Exposure of human skin to sunlight containing UVA and UVB radiation exposes the skin to deleterious effects such as sunburn, immune suppression, pigmentary changes, photoaging and skin cancer. The mechanism of such cutaneous damage induction is complex, but can be broadly divided into direct oxygen-dependent damage through absorption of photons, and oxidative damage caused by formation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species. This is why antioxidants have been increasingly studied as inhibitors or quenchers of UV-induced cutaneous damage.

Cigarette Smoking and Skin Biomarkers

Some research has been documented as to the damaging effects of smoking on the skin vasculature and on oxygenation in both human and animal models.

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Linking Sensory and Rheology Characteristics

The authors introduce a method to use rheological properties (such as dynamic viscosity and yield stress) to describe and predict skin sensory attributes (such as cohesiveness) of cosmetic products. This is a first step in learning to use emulsion structure to predict sensory attributes.

Rosacea: Cause, Triggers and Treatment

Rosacea is a common disorder of the facial skin that affects an estimated 14 million Americans. In fact, rosacea is becoming increasingly widespread as the baby boomer generation enters the most susceptible ages for its development.

Odor Reception: Structure and Mechanism

Olfaction is a multi-step process involving the odorant molecule, the odor receptor protein, the pockets for odorant ligand docking, and the odor patterns formed by the glumeruli and decoded by the brain.

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Editor's Note: Health and 'Swell'ness

The consumer driver for health and wellness will no doubt flow into the New Year and beyond. As such, this issue takes inspiration from the spa world.

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EpigenCare Offers Personalized Skin Care via Epigenetics

The company matches consumers to existing skin care products based on their epigenetic profile and skin quality indicators, including aging and DNA damage.

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More Studies Necessary for Laser Treatments of Acne

In a recent question/answer feature, one consumer raised the question of whether laser treatments are appropriate for the treatment of acne.

Validating the Effectiveness of Rubbing on Percutaneous Penetration

The effect of rubbing on percutaneous penetration has long been questioned. Existing data regarding rubbing effects is sparse, and what is available is controversial at best. While some evidence suggests that rubbing increases absorption, others note the opposite. Further understanding of the rubbing effect on percutaneous penetration may offer a more complete picture in relation to the application of drugs, cosmetics and skin care.

A Dermatological View—Percutaneous Penetration of Amino Acids

Skin care products containing amino acids often promote the benefits conferred on the skin by these molecules. Natural amino acids found in the skin have been found to improve the health of skin through antioxidation, membrane stabilization and increasing skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF).

Improving the Solubility of Benzoyl Peroxide: A Review

In this review, the authors examine studies relating to the solubility of BPO. The clinical trials discussed show that compared with suspended BPO, BPO solubilized by dimethyl isosorbide reduced P. acnes and decreased both inflammatory lesions/irritation and the emergence of antibiotic-resistant P. acnes strains. This reveals the importance of solubilizing BPO for improved efficacy and safety.

Spontaneous Formation of Liposomes from Lamellar Liquid Crystals

The authors describe a new technology to formulate liposomes by diluting a lamellar liquid crystalline phase with water, producing lipsomes in a single step.

Mintel's key consumer trends are set to impact the global beauty and personal care industry in 2021.

Mintel's 4 Global Beauty Consumer Trends of 2021

"The next evolution of ‘clean’ will be created by marrying ethics with safety to cater to the conscious and careful beauty consumer focused on avoiding undue risk inside and outside the box," said Andrew McDougal, associate director, global beauty and personal care, at Mintel.

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66% of Americans Don't Protect Skin Against Pollution

"There's a real opportunity for the beauty industry to take more action to help protect our skin against harmful airborne toxins.”

Trending: The Bright Future of Men's Skin Care

With predicted growth and brands like Kao Corp. launching Unlics — a cosmetics brand for Gen Z men — and Gen Z defining a new approach to men's grooming, there appears to be plenty of space for this branch of the industry to grow.

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The Depths of Hair Dyes: Understanding Users, Formulating Answers

The present article touches on misconceptions about ammonia- versus monoethanolamine-based hair dyes. It also analyzes the facts about these ingredients to arm formulators with both the consumer perspective and scientific rationale for ingredient choices.

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It's Time to Take Advantage of the Skin Microbiome

Scientific findings suggest that more cosmetic applications to leverage the skin microbiome are on the way, from sun care to anti-aging products.

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Study Supports Photo-protective Ability of High Flavanol Chocolate

Researchers from the London University of the Arts and the European Dermatology London have reported that the consumption of dark chocolate rich in flavanols can protect skin from UV light.

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