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Section: Formulas/Products
Sun Care
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc. Highlights Recent Sunscreen Formulations
The company's SPD series are highly concentrated dispersions of fine particles of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in a volatile silicone oil (DMF-2cs Dimethicone).
Literature/Data
Kynurenines, Layered SPF, Red Algae and More: Sunscreen Patent Roundup
The Universities of Princeton and Utah, L'Oréal, Unilever, Kolmar Korea, Athena, Shiseido, Murata Manufacturing, LG Household & Health and Beiersdorf, among others, have recently published patents related to sunscreen innovation. Following is a roundup.
Color Cosmetics
Label Challenge: Milk's Sunshine Skin Tint Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen
Cosmetics & Toiletries
is putting your formulating skills to the test with its weekly Label Challenge. Challenges are posted to social media on Mondays, you respond in the comments, and we give you the answers in our Friday newsletter—with a shoutout to the winners.
Sun Care
Read the Label: Avène Ultra-light Hydrating Sunscreen, Face, SPF 50+
This month, we welcome back our regular "Read the Label" contribution from Susan Raffy, of Susan Raffy Consulting, to review the label claims and ingredient listings of new products. This month features the Avène Ultra-light Hydrating Sunscreen Lotion, SPF 50+, for Face.
Efficacy
Wet Skin Factor for Sunscreens: An In vitro Method, Part I
Sunscreens designed for application to wet skin are popular in part due to convenience, skipping the drying step completely. In relation, these authors propose a new in vitro test to compare the wet skin factor of sun care products. Here, 20 products were tested and compared according to several conditions in order to define the best parameters for the method.
Sun Care
Read the Label: Vacation Brand Classic Whip SPF 30 Sunscreen Mousse
"...I recently picked up Vacation’s Classic Whip SPF 30 Sunscreen Mousse. Admittedly, I came for the SPF, but I stayed for the unique mousse texture..." writes Alison Wery, in her latest Read the Label column. Read on to learn about this formula design.
Sun Care
New Age of Sustainable Sunscreens: Formulating for Modern Sun Care Trends
Sunscreen developers are faced with fast-moving trends, environmental considerations and regulatory hurdles. This column describes ingredients and methods to create environmentally friendly products while addressing key skin concerns.
Sun Care
Nécessaire Releases 'The Sunscreen' for Face and Body
The Sunscreen is a mineral sunscreen treatment infused with protection and skin care actives for the face and body.
Hair Care
The Quest for Avobenzone Stabilizers and Sunscreen Photostability
Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane (BMDBM) is well-known as an effective UVA filter when it is stabilized. Here, the authors measure the efficiency of ten commercially available products that are reported to stabilize BMDBM. The most effective product found was octocrylene that, being a UVB filter, also contributed to the SPF.
Sun Care
W/O/W Technology to Enhance Organic UVA/UVB Sunscreen Performance
A new water-in-oil-in-water technology is described here that functions as an isolating shield, preventing UV filter particles from aggregating and helping their dispersion in formulas. The technology is shown in vitro and in vivo to improve SPF performance, UVA/UVB wide band high protection ratio, SPF sustainability and safety concerns regarding skin penetration.
Sun Care
Coated Inorganic Filters for Elegant and Protective Sunscreens
Inorganic UV filters must be distributed evenly to ensure sun protection. Further, they can present challenges of a pasty consistency and undesirable opacity when applied to skin. This paper therefore describes strategies using micronized titanium dioxide with different coatings to optimize its dispersion and protective benefits while improving processing and aesthetics.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Anti-acne Sunscreen with Salicylic Acid
A recent L'Oréal patent application discloses a sunscreen formulation with anti-acne properties thanks to the inclusion of salicylic acid and one additional acne active. The formula reportedly is stable and effective.
Sun Protection
The Best Sunscreen? The One People Will Use.
This guest advisor commentary comes from regular
Cosmetics & Toiletries
contributor and photochemistry expert Craig Bonda, president of Inception Partners, LLC, and technical consultant to the sunscreen industry.
Sun Care
Polymers to Boost SPF, Water Resistance in Sunscreens
Sunscreen formulations with a special rheology modifier and film forming polymer may boost the water resistance properties of TiO2 and ZnO.
Literature/Data
Melanoma Risk Drops 40% with Childhood Sunscreen Use
Recent research in
JAMA Dermatology
suggests that those who regularly used sunscreen as a child are at a significantly lower risk of melanoma; the study also sheds light on who is more likely to take that risk.
Magazine
Industry Insight: Sunscreen Differences for People of Color
This "Industry Insight" is adapted from an interview with Shannon Franklin of Black Girl Sunscreen, who explains sunscreen differences for people of color for more inclusive sun care formulating.
Sun Care
Increase Performance of Sunscreen Actives with Zemea® Propanediol
Improve your sun care formulations without compromising performance or aesthetics with Zemea® Propanediol. It is non-irritating, provides increased moisturization and excellent sensory characteristics eliminating stickiness and greasiness.
Efficacy
Wet Skin Factor for Sunscreens: An In vitro Method, Part II
Sunscreens designed for application to wet skin are popular in part due to convenience, skipping the drying step completely. In relation, these authors propose a new in vitro test to compare the wet skin factor of sun care products. Here, 20 products were tested and compared according to several conditions in order to define the best parameters for the method.
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