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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients

Formulating Ferulic Acid for Antioxidation

Joseph Laszlo, PhD, lead scientist for the US Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Biocatalytic Functionalization of Plant Lipids project, and his team have developed a process through which vegetable oil, in this case soybean oil, can be given antioxidant and UVA/UVB protective capabilities.

Kojic acid’s skin-brightening effect relies on its antioxidant abilities, which protect the skin by neutralizing free radicals in the environment.

Inside Ingredients: Kojic Acid

Kojic acid’s skin-brightening effect relies on its antioxidant abilities, which protect the skin by neutralizing free radicals in the environment.

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Defying Photoaging and Senescence with Catechin-optimized Upcycled Tea Elixir

Discarded crop materials that are proven safe are worth considering for beauty applications. Here, a catechin-rich elixir optimized and upcycled from tea leaves is tested for antioxidant, anti-photoaging and anti-senescence benefits in vitro and ex vivo.

Indoor farming or controlled environment agriculture is one solution to fulfill the demand for sustainable ingredients.

Precision Climate Farming for Sustainable Beauty: A Microgreens Case Study

Precision climate farming is described here to sustainably cultivate and optimize plant extracts. Examples of arugala and cress microgreens are given, which were tested for antioxidant, TEWL and moisturizing effects and cleansing efficacy in a balm.

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Leveling Up: Passion Fruit Drives Color Cosmetics Into New Dimensions

Passion fruit seed extract is shown to exhibit antioxidant, skin whitening and sun protection capabilities in color cosmetics. This novel, natural and sustainable source for cosmetic actives demonstrates a near totality of claims for formulators and marketers.

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Rosamox: Rosemary As Never Experienced Before

The use of antioxidants to stabilize personal care formulations and to offer skin protection from free radical damage has become mainstream. The challenge is to choose the right antioxidant. What about having this as your go-to antioxidant: sunflower seed oil and rosemary leaf extract? Intriguing, isn’t it?

Exposure to the elements and psychological stress, combined with the lowered levels of collagen, elastin, HA and moisture that occur naturally over time, demonstrate that skin aging is a multi-layered, multifaceted process. This reinforces the need for a combined approach for truly effective anti-aging results.

Layering Efficacies to Reverse Photoaging: A Multifunctional Serum Case Study

This case study explains how ingredients with different efficacies were chosen to build a multifunctional serum to reduce signs of photoaging. Antioxidant, skin defense, keratinocyte renewal, increased HA and moisture content, etc., tests are described.

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Biochemica® Matcha Green Tea Butter from Hallstar

Sustainable sourcing, natural wellness claims, the pleasing sensoriality of butter, and powerful antioxidant benefits—Biochemica® Matcha Green Tea Butter delivers a formulating home run.

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Detecting the Protective Power of a Hair Health Multi-peptide: An Integrated Approach

This work measures the antioxidant potential of a hydrolyzed cicer seed extract, a multi-peptide derived from chickpeas, to protect hair. Advanced methods such as FTIR, DCFH-DA assays, cyclic fatigue and DSC testing are combined for a comprehensive view.

Moringa Leaf Phytochemicals for Skin Benefits

This paper describes the development of a stable moringa plant concentrate comprising the extraction and identification of stable actives, via plant metabolites, and the correlation of activity through a variety of in vitro models. The resulting concentrate demonstrated direct and indirect antioxidant benefits and inhibitory action against inflammation and UV-induced MMP-1.

Targeting The Cutaneous Nervous Network

A synthetic agent with neurotrophic and antioxidant properties has been designed to protect the skin’s sensory neurons from environmental stress and neurodegenerescence, preserving certain physiological responses controlled by the central nervous system.

The Photostability and Photostabilization of trans-Resveratrol

In this study, the effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on trans-resveratrol were documented, finding that UV radiation causes it to undergo rapid and extensive photoisomerization and some photodecomposition. The antioxidant activity of trans-resveratrol is correspondingly reduced. However, in the presence of ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, a photostabilizer used in sunscreens, the effects of UV exposure on trans-resveratrol are minimized, thereby preserving its antioxidant activity and, presumably, its bioavailability.

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Raspberry Stem Cell Extract to Protect Skin from Inflammation and Oxidative Stress

In the present article, the authors evaluate a wild red raspberry (Rubus idaeus) extract for its beneficial compounds and potential applications in skin care. From leaf explants, raspberry stem cells were obtained to develop an extract rich in antioxidants, anthocyanins and phenolics. This extract exhibited anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities.

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RADICARE®-ECO: The Urban Antidote for Hair and Scalp

RADICARE®-ECO is a powerful antioxidant inspired by sophisticated protection mechanisms found in leaves and fruit husks of plants. It protects hair and scalp against deleterious urban stress and improves hair integrity, gloss, and colour brilliance.

Characterizing the Anti-aging Effects of Hesperomeles heterophylla Hook Leaf Extract

Hesperomeles heterophylla Hook leaf extract was evaluated as described here for its application in anti-aging skin care. This traditional extract exhibited antioxidant and protective properties on the extracellular matrix due to high levels of polyphenols and flavonoids. Further, a formulation containing 0.35% extract was tested in vivo and showed promising effects on wrinkles and skin elasticity.

Dolichos Cell Culture Extract for Protection Against UV Damage

Dolichos biflorus cell culture extract is evaluated here for its effects on skin cells. Results indicate the extract provides strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and protective properties for skin, and the ability to repair UV-induced damage. Further, this work reinforces that cell culture systems are efficient biofactories to produce natural and effective compounds.

Dolichos Cell Culture Extract for Protection Against UV Damage

Dolichos biflorus cell culture extract is evaluated here for its effects on skin cells. Results indicate the extract provides strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and protective properties for skin, and the ability to repair UV-induced damage. Further, this work reinforces that cell culture systems are efficient biofactories to produce natural and effective compounds.

Oleosomes: Natural, Self-emulsifying Systems

Safflower oleosomes isolated in the form of a naturally occurring emulsion can be useful to the cosmetics marketplace to deliver the emolliency, occlusivity and antioxidant effects without the need for other emulsifiers. In addition, safflower oleosomes can be used as the nonactive portion of the oil phase of a typical cosmetic formulation.

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