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Recent in Efficacy/Claims Substantiation (page 4 of 5)

Beating the Damaging Effects of Heat on Hair

Jun 4, 2015 | Trefor A. Evans, Ph.D., T.A Evans Inc., Princeton, NJ

Heat treatments are among the more popular methods for achieving straight hair, yet their high temperatures are quite damaging to the hair’s structures. Learn about the damaging effects and suggested solutions for repairing heat-damaged hair.

Hidden Hair Damage and the Importance of Multiple Tests

Jun 3, 2015 | Crisan Popescu, Ph.D.*, Kao Germany GmbH, Darmstadt, Germany

It is of paramount importance for hair researchers to know the history of hair at the time of applying a treatment. The lack of such knowledge can create misleading results. Thus, a stress-strain test in both dry and wet states can provide a rapid means to check the reliability of the information collected, as is shown here.

Defining and Controlling Frizz

Apr 22, 2015 | Trefor Evans, PhD, T.A Evans Inc., Princeton, NJ USA

There is likely a variety of causes and contributors to the nebulous consumer term “frizz.” This article attempts to craft a universal definition and then progresses to further examine impacting factors. These discussions focus on methods for quantifying hair properties and assessing the positive impact of commercial hair care products.

Sea Anemone Delivery of Collagen and γ-PGA for Anti-aging Benefits

Apr 7, 2015 | Yossi Tal, PhD, Einav Danon and Amir Toren, PhD, StarletDerma Ltd., Caesarea, Israel; and Alain Khaiat, PhD, Seers Consulting, Singapore

The effective delivery of youth-preserving collagen and moisture remains a cosmetic Holy Grail. In response, this study describes a natural microinjection system based on the stinging cells of the Cnidaria sea anemone to effectively puncture the stratum corneum layer and deliver its content—both marine collagen and γ-PGA—into skin, offering a promising new class of solutions to age-old challenges.

Smart Lipid-carotene System for Targeted Free Radical-Scavenging

Mar 30, 2015 | G. Rodríguez, PhD, M. Cócera, PhD, and L. Barbosa-Barros, PhD, Bicosome SL, Barcelona; E. Fernández, A. de la Maza, PhD, and O. López, PhD, IQAC-CSIC, Barcelona

In this study, the authors evaluated the effectiveness of a new smart lipid system in stabilizing and delivering carotenes into the epidermis. The system is shown effective in providing free-radical (FR) scavenging at different stages of skin exposure: immediately neutralizing FR present in the skin, blocking FR formation during UV exposure, and accelerating skin recovery after UV exposure.

Quantifying Hair Color Fading

Jan 29, 2015 | Trefor A Evans, PhD, T.A. Evans LLC

Around 10-12 years ago, shampoos and conditioners began appearing on the market claiming to be “color safe.” This strongly resonated with consumers. The present article discusses various contributors to the color fade process with a specific emphasis on measurements to quantify and understand color fade.

Hair as a Test Substrate

Nov 12, 2014 | Rachel Grabenhofer

Hair is a distinctly variable material, and the nature of this substrate can have a major impact on laboratory test results. This article discusses hair as a laboratory substrate to provide guidance on minimizing variability and creating optimal test conditions.

Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 2

Aug 21, 2014 | Trefor Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC

A previous article discussed traditional measurements to assess the properties of hair spray products. However, the properties of polymer films deposited by these products are not constant and can be altered by both formulation means and environmental conditions. This article highlights additional useful measurement techniques for characterizing these film properties.

Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 1

May 20, 2014 | Trefor A. Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC, Princeton, NJ

There are two general classifications of hair styling products—those that help with style creation and those that prolong the style. Both facilitating style creation and promoting hold longevity stem from the presence of water-soluble polymers in formulations. This paper discusses methods to evaluate these properties and quantify performance.

Correlating Aging with Skin’s Mechanical and Optical Properties

Apr 21, 2014 | Olga Freis, PhD, Gilles Perie and Andreas Rathjens, BASF Beauty Creations/Care Solutions, Pulnoy and Essey-lès-Nancy, France

The aim of this study was to monitor the evolution of biomechanical and optical properties of the skin with aging. Different biophysical parameters were measured, including skin: elasticity and firmness, color, brightness, fluorescence emission, sebum content, hydration and pH. A significant evolution of the evaluated parameters with aging was observed.

‘Anti-imperfection’ Claims

Jan 24, 2014 | Chris McLeod, HPCI Media

Four tests can be undertaken to substantiate the claims covered in this article. Colorimetry analyzes pre- and post-product application skin tone. A Cutometer or dermal torque meter measures the rate of skin extension pre- and post-product treatment, and stratum corneum turnover tests and acute profilometry studies show the rate at which skin is renewed or changes in the evenness of skin occur.

Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage

Jan 13, 2014 | Trefor Evans, PhD

In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.

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