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Green Formulations: Not All Components Are Equal

In the consumer’s mind, a natural or green cosmetic is automatically safe; however, the safety, quality and efficacy of botanical ingredients used in formulations need to be carefully assessed. Stability is also an important issue. Current research is directing analyses of final formulations to evaluate not only their cosmetic raw materials, but also their active materials.

Review of Pseudopeptidic Compounds for Biocompatible Gels

Simple pseudopeptides derived from natural amino acids can be designed and prepared as efficient gelators for a variety of solvents, and with a high potential for biocompatibility. The appropriate selection of structural components, reviewed herein, shows how to produce gels with tailored properties, including high thermal stability.

Comparatively Speaking: Cushion vs. Playtime vs. Hardness

Cushion, playtime and hardness are important to the formulator's quest to tailor the aesthetics of a product. Here, industry expert Tony O'Lenick explains the differences between them and discusses ways to alter the esters in a product to adjust its hardness.

Comparatively Speaking: Green vs. Greening Cosmetic Formulations

Tony O'Lenick explains the difference between 'green' cosmetic formulations and 'greening' cosmetic formulations, and introduces the concept of the Green Star Rating.

Comparatively Speaking: Aqueous Surfactant vs. Silicone Surfactant

Industry expert Anthony O'Lenick Jr. explains the difference between molecules that act like surfactants for aqueous systems versus oil systems.

Crypto anionic surfactants are mainly in a nonionic state when the pH is below 3.

Comparatively Speaking: Anionic vs. Crypto Anionic Surfactant

In this edition of Comparatively Speaking, Tony O'Lenick turns to Ricardo Diez, Ph.D., adjunct professor at Rutgers University, to explain what crypto anionic surfactants are, as well as their utility in personal care formulations.

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A Key Player in Dermis-Epidermis Communication

SILAB presents COMMUSYS®, natural anti-aging active ingredient rich in biopeptides derived from the yeast Pichia stipitis, which acts on transcompartmental communication in the skin for hydrating, smoothing and radiance-boosting effects.

Comparatively Speaking: Sorbitan Esters vs. Sorbeth Esters

Industry expert Tony O'Lenick explains the difference between sorbitan esters and sorbeth esters to help the personal care formulator differentiate between their INCI names, emulsion stabilities and feel on the skin.

Comparatively Speaking: Ten Cosmetic Formula Types

Cosmetic formulas include solutions, creams/emulsions, lotions, ointments/pastes, suspensions, tablets, powders, gels, sticks and aerosols. Here, Tony O'Lenick turns to Perry Romanowski to discuss their differences.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: One-way Communication

Talking to our customers is a critical step. The most basic question is: What do they expect of a cosmetic product? Furthermore, educating them by communicating the science through journalists is critical.

Comparatively Speaking: Pressed vs. Loose Powder

Color expert Nick Morante helps Tony O'Lenick in this edition of "Comparatively Speaking" by explaining the difference between pressed and loose powders, detailing both shared and differing ingredients.

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Comparatively Speaking: Essential vs. Natural Oils

In the latest installment of his "Comparatively Speaking" column, Tony O'Lenick explores natural and essential oils and reviews their chemical characteristics.

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Expert Opinions: Dermocosmetics and Compromised Skin

This Expert Opinions focuses on clinical efficacy, skin health, naturality, acne, biological paths and barrier repair.

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Comparatively Speaking: Homologous vs. Analogous Polymers

What can we learn from the structure/function differences within a chemical family? In this installment of "Comparatively Speaking," Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr., illustrates with a closer look at homologous vs. analogous polymers.

Comparatively Speaking: Natural vs. Synthetic Fragrance

In this "Comparatively Speaking," Tony O'Lenick refers to Ed Matson to explain the difference between a natural fragrance and a synthetic fragrance, explaining the formulating advantages of using both.

Polyelectrolyte Complex for Mending Damaged Hair

Complexity theory is used here to explain the formation and properties of polyelectrolyte complexes, whereby organized structures built through self-association exhibit synergistic properties. These materials can create new compounds and offer new benefits, as shown by the present work in which a complex based on PVM/MA copolymer and polyquaternium-28 is used to treat damaged hair.

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Comparatively Speaking: Mentors, Maestros and Mosquitoes

As a recent semi-retiree of the cosmetics R&D industry (he's still consulting), Tony O'Lenick shares his advice on how to make the most of personal connections in this installment of his "Comparatively Speaking" column.

Comparatively Speaking: Refractive Index vs. Refraction of Light

Tony O'Lenick explains the difference between the refractive index and refraction of light to produce color. These terms can be used by the formulator to produce transparent emulsions and predict the color of emulsions, respectively.

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