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Oak Green Tea And Orange Derivatives For Irritaiton

Oak, Green Tea and Orange Derivatives to Disrupt JAK/STAT, NF-κB Irritation Pathways

Activation of NF-κB and JAK/STAT pathways in keratinocytes leads to the release of immunomodulating factors that sustain an amplification loop between the keratinocyte and infiltrating immune cell, leading to skin irritation. To disrupt this loop, two complexes, one based on oak and green tea extracts, and another on orange flavonoids, were developed and are shown here to immediately soothe skin.

UV Transmission Assessment: Influence of Temperature on Substrate Surface

This work evaluates the impact of temperature on test substrate surfaces during the application, spreading and drying steps of the in vitro method to measure ultraviolet (UV) transmission. The authors work in a range of temperatures, between 20°C to 35°C, and demonstrate that controlling temperature is a key parameter and should be strictly controlled to ensure reliability.

Antiaging in a Different Light: Assessing How Chromophores Color Perception

Aging influences cutaneous parameters that give rise to progressive changes in three skin chromophores, altering the visual homogeneity of skin. To address these changes, the authors developed and examined the effects of a complex based on Siegesbeckia orientalis and Rabdosia rubescens using a novel skin imaging technique.

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Hair Color Vibrance Factor to Characterize Shine and Color Intensity*

To evaluate the comprehensive effects of shine and color intensity in hair, a hair color vibrance factor has been developed to enable new claims for hair dye formulas and after-dye treatments. Experimental results described here show how varying the ingredients in shine spray and hair dye formulas affect this factor and correlate with subjective panelist assessments.

Mature and Immature Corneocyte Detection Force Distance Curves vs. Microfluorometry

Here, the author compares two methods to determine the maturity of corneocytes based on their cross-linking that could be used to evaluate the anti-aging effects of molecular agents. The first utilizes microfluorometry, while the second involves F-D curves generated via contact mode AFM. Both methods successfully detected differences in mature or immature corneocytes with 95% confidence.

Testing Tactics—Consumer vs. Scientific Language: Relating In vivo to In vitro

It should perhaps go without saying that consumer products are sold using consumer language. Market researchers and consumer scientists spend a great deal of time studying their target audience and learning this vocabulary, which subsequently allows the recounting of product benefits in the same terminology.

Evaluating Essential Oils in Cosmetics: Antioxidant Capacity and Functionality

In the present work, the antioxidant capacities of three essential oils derived from basil and thyme were evaluated using a photochemiluminescence (PCL)-based assay. In addition, since the base formulation can affect the antioxidant activity of oils contained therein, ingredient interactions within final formulations were investigated.

Evaluating 1,3-Propanediol for Potential Skin Effects

In the present article, the authors assess the skin irritation and sensitization potential of 1,3-propanediol (INCI: Propanediol). Results in animals and humans by acute or repeat exposure support a low potential of skin reactivity for the material. In addition, the skin reactivity potential in humans was found to be lower with 1,3-propanediol than 1,2-propanediol (INCI: Propylene Glycol).

Testing in Cosmetic Valley

Raman spectroscopy and fringe projection are a few of the methods that have revolutionized the objectification market. These techniques, among others, are utilized for testing within Cosmetic Valley. Following is a collection of interviews on the subject of testing in Cosmetic Valley.

Translating Data into Claims and Interpreting Regulations: Science vs. Marketing

Substantial evidence, which the FDA requires to support claims for drugs, is applicable to personal care, especially considering the pharmaceutical direction products have taken. The present article considers whether the industry is benefiting from marketing without assuming the responsibility for potential effects. In addition, it considers the limitations of in vitro and in vivo test models.

Researchers Develop Non-animal, Dendritic-based Sensitizer Test

Researchers from the University of Aveiro, the University of Coimbra and the University Hospital of Coimbra have developed a dendritic cell-based test for skin sensitizers that can serve as an alternative to animal testing.

Singlet Quenching Proves Faster is Better for Photostability

The faster a photostabilizer works, the fewer opportunities for destructive chemical reactions. Here, the author describes a new photostabilizer, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, which acts by quenching the singlet excited state of UV filters. The data shows how this material sets a new standard for the photostabilization of avobenzone, even in the presence of octyl methoxycinnamate.

Beiersdorf Researcher Develops Skin Imaging Method for Analysis

Beiersdorf has created a new method of skin analysis to help it develop new skin care products.

A High Throughput Method to Predict Skin Penetration and Screen Topical Formulations

This work studies the applicability of a 96-well-based skin-mimetic artificial membrane permeability model to differentiate between topical pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. Results are compared with data obtained from in vitro Franz cell permeability measurements and reveal the applicability of this method to assess cosmetic formulation permeation and speed the discovery process.

Influence of Skin Diffuse Reflectance on Sun Damage and Ingredient Efficacy Measurements

Current in vitro methods to assess photostability and antioxidant activity do not account for the diffuse reflectance of skin. Described here is an in vitro test that addresses this variable, mimics end-use product conditions and models photodamage processes. The approach is employed to determine the efficacy of an antioxidant from the Camellia sinensis (tea) plant.

Hair Ethnicity and Ellipticity: A Preliminary Study

Ethnic hair care addresses diverse fiber compositions that require unique products. This comprehensive review in hair fiber dimensions among straight, wavy and curly/coily hair serves as a basis from which product developers can design products to cater to unique hair type needs. The current study examines the ellipticity of Caucasian, Brazilian, Hispanic and African-American hair.

Hair Ethnicity and Ellipticity: A Preliminary Study

Ethnic hair care addresses diverse fiber compositions that require unique products. This comprehensive review in hair fiber dimensions among straight, wavy and curly/coily hair serves as a basis from which product developers can design products to cater to unique hair type needs. The current study examines the ellipticity of Caucasian, Brazilian, Hispanic and African-American hair.

Adjusting Substrate/Product Interfacial Properties to Improve In vivo/In vitro SPF Correlation

This work evaluates the impact of a plasma treatment on test substrates to modify their surface energy, to more closely correlate in vitro SPF measurements with in vivo measurements—without chemically altering the test products. The authors chose the level of plasma modification to use on a substrate based on in vivo values; they explain how to choose it regarding specific formulas in a further paper.