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Sea Anemone Delivery of Collagen and γ-PGA for Anti-aging Benefits

The effective delivery of youth-preserving collagen and moisture remains a cosmetic Holy Grail. In response, this study describes a natural microinjection system based on the stinging cells of the Cnidaria sea anemone to effectively puncture the stratum corneum layer and deliver its content—both marine collagen and γ-PGA—into skin, offering a promising new class of solutions to age-old challenges.

Smart Lipid-carotene System for Targeted Free Radical-Scavenging

In this study, the authors evaluated the effectiveness of a new smart lipid system in stabilizing and delivering carotenes into the epidermis. The system is shown effective in providing free-radical (FR) scavenging at different stages of skin exposure: immediately neutralizing FR present in the skin, blocking FR formation during UV exposure, and accelerating skin recovery after UV exposure.

Packaging as an Extension of Formulation

Mark White of Amway Corp., will explore how packaging can improve, increase or extend the delivery, efficacy and shelf-life of products during his presentation at the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit. "Aesthetic appeal is not the only reason for given personal care packaging designs—although it certainly helps," he notes.

Ascorbyl Lactoside: A New Vitamin C Derivative for Effective Skin Whitening

A new vitamin C derivative, ascorbyl lactoside (AsL), was synthesized and characterized for its stability and safety, and evaluated for anti-tyrosinase and melanin reduction effects. The material showed excellent whitening effects and exhibited better stability than ascorbic acid. It also possessed the lowest cytotoxicity, in comparison with ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and arbutin.

Demystifying Cosmetic Science for Consumers

Cosmetic scientists know the headaches of alarmist groups and junk science. They reformulate products pulled from shelves due to mistruths from would-be "experts." Joe Schwarcz, PhD, of McGill University will explore why there is a need to demystify cosmetic science during the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit.

To produce a stable emulsion, an emulsifying agent can be added to the oil and water that will either act as a barrier to alter the droplet coalescence rate, or create an interfacial film that can produce repulsive electrical forces between approaching droplets.

Zeta Potential and Particle Size to Predict Emulsion Stability

Emulsions are popular vehicles in skin care due to their affinity for the skin; however, they are thermodynamically unstable systems. This study investigates zeta potential and particle size distribution as potential screening tools to predict instabilities in emulsion-based cosmetic products, to supplement regular accelerated stability testing.

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Delivering Skin Moisturization from a Surfactant Cleanser

The instrumental and sensorial studies described here assess the ability of a test moisturizing product, at 1% in a surfactant system, to physically improve skin moisturization and structural condition, as well as provide a consumer-perceivable sensorial benefit. Changes in skin protein content, visible skin dryness, trans-epidermal water loss, corneometry and sensorial characteristics were measured and analyzed.

The hair scientist is indeed fortunate that his/her test substrate is so readily available in such specific forms, but the variability of this material again must be emphasized.

Hair as a Test Substrate

Hair is a distinctly variable material, and the nature of this substrate can have a major impact on laboratory test results. This article discusses hair as a laboratory substrate to provide guidance on minimizing variability and creating optimal test conditions.

IFSCC 2014 Explores Social, Psychological and Sensorial Aspects of Beauty

As one might expect from an event centered around beauty and staged in Paris, the 28th Congress of the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) was nothing less than fabulous. However, the glamour and fanfare was deeply rooted in science.

Formulating Within Regulatory Constraints

Regulations incite mixed emotions. On the one hand, they constrain innovation; on the other hand, they can force a new and better solution. Updates on regulations and some solutions for them will be covered by Rob Ross-Fichtner, of Focal Point Research, at the June 22 and 23, 2015, Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit.

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P&G Hair Expert Jennifer Marsh Joins C&T's Scientific Advisors

Cosmetics & Toiletries is pleased to welcome Jennifer Marsh, PhD, of Procter & Gamble, to its highly esteemed Scientific Advisory Board. As an accomplished Principal Scientist in the Beauty and Technology division, Marsh has conducted multiple studies on bleach and oxidative chemistry for hair color technologies.

Non-Invasive Measurement of Epidermal Proteins for Psoriasis and Skin Care*

Abnormal epidermal turnover in psoriatic skin impairs its barrier function and tissue repair capabilities. Therefore, studies of hyperkeratinization and hyperproliferation have been conducted to better understand the disease. Here, the administration of heavy water and a tape-stripping method are used to measure skin protein turnover in psoriatic skin and surrounding tissues. Results demonstrate benefits over other proliferation measurements.

Assessing Beauty By Facial Topography, Color and Symmetry

The notion of “aging gracefully” no longer applies, as consumers are constantly judging each other’s facial features to assess their beauty. Here, based on recent studies, it is suggested that facial topography, symmetry and color dictate those assessments. While the cosmetics industry can lessen some of these factors, some are a result of biology or lifestyle.

Lightening Skin Through a Melanogenesis-interrupting Peptide

Cutaneous pigmentation is determined by melanogenesis, the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes, and the distribution of melanin to skin, among other processes. Interrupting these would limit skin pigmentation to achieve a better skin lightening effect. Here, the authors review the biological mechanisms of melanin production, then test a peptide designed to act on them for a lightening effect.

Peptide Approach to Enhance Anti-wrinkle Efficacy Between Injections

Facial injections with botulinum toxin are trending but regular applications are necessary to maintain their efficacy. Six months is recommended between sessions, necessitating topical anti-wrinkle cosmetics that can fill this gap. Described here is a topical combination of peptides that is shown to complement such procedures with anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 1

There are two general classifications of hair styling products—those that help with style creation and those that prolong the style. Both facilitating style creation and promoting hold longevity stem from the presence of water-soluble polymers in formulations. This paper discusses methods to evaluate these properties and quantify performance.

Literature Review: Damage, Growth and Conditioning in Hair

This survey of recent literature relates to assessing hair damage, reducing dye allergy, increasing and inhibiting hair growth, cleansing and conditioning hair, and more. The papers are presented as food for thought in the early stages of the product development process, and may warrant deeper investigation.

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Analyzing Deposition from Rinse-off Hair Products

The most common approach to determine ingredient deposition on hair is to analyze the treated tresses, but this poses several challenges. Instead, the authors describe a novel approach based on determining the amount of ingredient collected in the rinse water, and back-calculating the amount deposited on hair. Development and validation efforts discussed here use polydimethylsiloxane as a model compound.