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Tech Transfer
MIT Researchers Develop 'Feature Tuning' Algorithm
Researchers at MIT have developed an algorithm for the “feature tuning” of digital images, specifically faces, for improved memorability and other qualities. While the technology is implicated for effects in social media, it also suggests new considerations for digital imaging in cosmetic product development.
Efficacy
Correlating Aging with Skin’s Mechanical and Optical Properties
The aim of this study was to monitor the evolution of biomechanical and optical properties of the skin with aging. Different biophysical parameters were measured, including skin: elasticity and firmness, color, brightness, fluorescence emission, sebum content, hydration and pH. A significant evolution of the evaluated parameters with aging was observed.
Sun Protection
Sandblasting to Improve the Reproducibility of In vitro Sunscreen Evaluation
SPF test results from substrates treated using a traditional sandblasting technique are compared with those from substrates treated using a new process. Based on the topographic control of 10 batches and 34 sunscreen evaluations, the authors concluded the new process had better topographic reproducibility, consequently improving the SPF repeatability and reproducibility in vitro.
Method/Process
Collagens I and III, and Elastin Activation for Anti-aging
As an alternative to semi-invasive facial rejuvenation techniques, the authors developed an active ingredient to reactivate senescent fibroblasts by stimulating metabolic pathways for collagens I and III, and elastin. The biological activity of the resulting ingredient is investigated here using in vitro models, ex vivo explants and human volunteers.
Regional
NSF Launches Testing, Certification and Consulting Program for Cosmetic Safety
Global public health organization NSF International has launched the NSF Cosmetics and Personal Care Program in response to growing concerns from consumers and retailers regarding adulteration, mislabeling and counterfeiting issues.
Efficacy
Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage
In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed
fatigue testing
, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.
Efficacy
Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage
In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed
fatigue testing
, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.
Event Coverage
Emotion, Visualization and Innovation at IFSCC in Rio
The IFSCC conference covered an array of subjects—from the psychology of rotating brushes, and discussion of neuron-adipocyte crosstalk to limit emotional stress-mediated fat accumulation; to hair straightening and conditioning, various visualization tools, and novel formulation approaches.
Efficacy
Anti-wrinkle Claims Substantiation
Personal care is now dominated by want rather than need, and one facet at the crux of this trend is the taboo word of the century: wrinkles. As with the majority of cosmetic products and claims in the 21st century, product development teams aim to differentiate their products from competitors in one way or another, to create a successful brand and generate profit.
Efficacy
Analyzing Deposition from Rinse-off Hair Products
The most common approach to determine ingredient deposition on hair is to analyze the treated tresses, but this poses several challenges. Instead, the authors describe a novel approach based on determining the amount of ingredient collected in the rinse water, and back-calculating the amount deposited on hair. Development and validation efforts discussed here use polydimethylsiloxane as a model compound.
Efficacy
Image Processing and Analysis to Evaluate the Effects of Porous Polyamide Microspheres in Cosmetics
Described here is an image processing system that compensates for changes in illumination and volunteer position, and two algorithms to quantify skin texture and wrinkles. These methods evaluate skin parameters from a single image without contacting skin. Their abilities are demonstrated here in evaluations of the benefits of porous polyamide ultra-fine powders on skin texture and gloss.
Efficacy
Image Processing and Analysis to Evaluate the Effects of Porous Polyamide Microspheres in Cosmetics
Described here is an image processing system that compensates for changes in illumination and volunteer position, and two algorithms to quantify skin texture and wrinkles. These methods evaluate skin parameters from a single image without contacting skin. Their abilities are demonstrated here in evaluations of the benefits of porous polyamide ultra-fine powders on skin texture and gloss.
Efficacy
Measuring Hair Strength, Part I: Stress-Strain Curves
This article is the first in a series that will address the approaches of measuring the “strength” of hair and quantifying the manner by which this property may be altered. Specifically, it will begin with the generation of stress-strain curves through the use of constant rate extension experiments.
Hair Care
It's All in the Perception
Thinking about products, consumer happiness is an outcome of consumer perception. And as the industry knows, consumer perception is crucial to product success. It’s the difference between skepticism and trust, like and dislike, and, ultimately, the sale or no sale
Efficacy
Fischer-Tropsch vs. Mineral Products for Moisturization
Differing amounts of Fischer-Tropsch (FT) wax were used in petroleum jelly and final cosmetic emulsions to evaluate moisturizing effects in skin. FT wax was shown to perform as well or better than traditional mineral-derived products.
Efficacy
Testing Moisturizing Claims for Skin
Although this author cannot deny that moisturization capabilities can provide relief for those who suffer from flaky, itching or irritated and dry skin, it would be careless not to acknowledge the marketing-based beguilement within this moisturization sector.
Efficacy
Fischer-Tropsch vs. Mineral Products for Moisturization
Differing amounts of Fischer-Tropsch (FT) wax were used in petroleum jelly and final cosmetic emulsions to evaluate moisturizing effects in skin. FT wax was shown to perform as well or better than traditional mineral-derived products.
Methods/Tools
Consumer Perception of Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Qualitative Assessment
There are varying definitions, associations and overall impressions of fine lines and wrinkles among different consumer segments. The findings of this study offer invaluable insight into consumers’ opinions, and by qualitative in-depth interviews, they provide a well-defined vernacular for aging descriptors. This language is critical for developmental research, consumer evaluation and marketing within the cosmetic industry.
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