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Haftek described the stratum corneum (SC) as a 'magic cauldron” brewing to its fullness. 'While the SC is essentially dead, the 'fire beneath the cauldron' keeps it evolving and adapting to maintain barrier function.'

Alphorns, Cowbells, Magic and Gaming at IFSCC Zurich, part II

The 23rd IFSCC Congress, held Sept. 21-23, 2015, reported “more facts and less illusions” to some 550+ delegates from across the globe at the forefront of cosmetic product innovation.

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PCPC Responds to Breast Cancer Action's Ingredient Safety Allegations

The Personal Care Products Council has taken issue with the Breast Cancer Action’s latest statement alleging products offered to women in philanthropic cosmetic kits dispensed by the PCPC contain chemicals linked to increased cancer risk.

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What do We Know About Depigmenting Agents?

This review examines the efficacy and tolerability of agents such as hydroquinone, ascorbic acid and retinol to treat hyperpigmentation disorders. The authors assess the quality of studies as a tool to determine efficacy of depigmenting agents. Along with outcome, they also analyze study design, participant skin type, duration, intervention and statistical significance.

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Yield Stress Measurements for Personal Care, Part I: Definitions and Basics

The aim of this article series is to properly define and differentiate yield stress from high viscosity, as well as develop a method for assessing whether a sample has a yield stress. In addition, it will illustrate how to determine the amount of yield needed for a given application.

Shielding and Repairing Tooth Enamel with Carboxymethyl Cellulose

This article evaluates the ability of a toothpaste formulation containing calcium, phosphate and a film-building carboxymethyl cellulose to repair and refill damaged enamel. Micro-hardness and elasticity were quantified by nano-indentation, and surface roughness by profilometry. Scanning electron microscopy was employed for qualitative analysis, and profilometry, again, for the refilling of micro damage.

Patent Picks—Suprametallogels, Detecting Analytes, Vibroturbilization and Other R&D Processes

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions related to processes and methods of forming suprametallogels, synthesizing stable resveratrol, detecting target analytes, surface-treating calcium carbonate, processing dispersed systems, enhancing dermal penetration, temporarily dyeing hair and more.

Bill to Phase Out Animal Testing Reaches US House

The Humane Cosmetics Act aims to end animal testing for cosmetics after a one year phase in and it would also phase out the sale of animal-tested cosmetics in three years.

Sourcing and Using Maca and Suma Roots

In recent years, interest in sourcing plant roots as active ingredients for cosmetic use has grown tremendously. Roots such as maca and suma are rich in secondary metabolites and, as described here, can have specific actions on skin to increase its vitality and response to environmental stresses.

Terminalia Chebula for Preventive and Restorative Anti-aging Benefits*

This paper examines a tannin-enriched Terminalia chebula extract. Discussed are its mechanisms for preventative and restorative anti-aging effects, and skin pigmentation control. A pilot clinical study further confirms the extract’s bioactivity to reduce wrinkles and pigmentation. Improvements in yellowish skin tones also were observed, likely due to glycation reversal.

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Beating the Damaging Effects of Heat on Hair

Heat treatments are among the more popular methods for achieving straight hair, yet their high temperatures are quite damaging to the hair’s structures. Learn about the damaging effects and suggested solutions for repairing heat-damaged hair.

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Hidden Hair Damage and the Importance of Multiple Tests

It is of paramount importance for hair researchers to know the history of hair at the time of applying a treatment. The lack of such knowledge can create misleading results. Thus, a stress-strain test in both dry and wet states can provide a rapid means to check the reliability of the information collected, as is shown here.

Two Key Factors in Hair Care Growth: Mass and Efficacy

Value growth in hair care has been hampered by an upwardly inelastic value margin. However, there is hope in untapped zones in emerging markets, where the frequency of shampoo use continues to be low.

Shaving And Its Effects On Percutaneous Absorption In The Skin

Shaving and its Effects on Percutaneous Absorption in the Skin*

Despite its being an area of concern for many years, the percutaneous absorption of cosmetics has not been rigorously studied. Additionally, the effects of shaving on this process are relatively unknown. An overview of recent research reveals that more research in this area is required.

The Nagoya Protocol for Cosmetics and Extracts

The Nagoya Protocol is an international law applying to genetic resources and ensuring the countries of origin share in the benefits from using these materials.

3D Printed Skin Animal Test Alternative

San Diego-based Organovo announced a partnership with cosmetics giant L'Oréal to develop 3D bioprinted skin tissue for the beauty product testing.

Defining and Controlling Frizz

There is likely a variety of causes and contributors to the nebulous consumer term “frizz.” This article attempts to craft a universal definition and then progresses to further examine impacting factors. These discussions focus on methods for quantifying hair properties and assessing the positive impact of commercial hair care products.

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Natural vs. Synthetic Antimicrobials and HDAC as an Indicator of Microflora Health

This article reviews the role of skin microflora in protecting skin, and assesses how the histone deacetylase (HDAC) enzyme is implicated. From this, HDAC expression is used as an indicator to compare the effects of traditional biocides and preservatives with natural antimicrobials on skin’s microbiome. Results suggest the latter effectively preserve products while maintaining a healthy microbiome.

Biomimetic vs. Traditional Skin Moisturization: An In vivo Comparison*

To alleviate skin dryness, humectants and occlusive substances are traditionally used, mostly in combination. A third, relatively recent approach is biomimetic, i.e., active ingredients with lamellar structure containing skin-identical lipids. The aim of this study was to determine whether a biomimetic cream could deliver superior moisturization to human volunteers, compared with a conventional moisturizer containing petrolatum and mineral oil.