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Claims/Labeling
New Concepts in Cosmetic Regulations. . .It's Time to Leave the 1930s Behind
In the days when lawmakers were penning the original rules, understanding the differences between 'cosmetics' and 'drugs' was an easy business. These terms have run their course and really no longer suit the industry.
Cleansing
The Many Faces of Microemulsions: Converting Challenges to Step-change Opportunities, part II
Microemulsions present a means to convert the challenges faced by the personal care industry into step-change opportunities. This review considers the features of microemulsions, their applications and various means of preparing them.
Skin Care
The Many Faces of Microemulsions: Converting Challenges to Step-change Opportunities, part I
Microemulsions present a means to convert the challenges faced by the personal care industry into step-change opportunities. This review considers the features of microemulsions, their applications and various means of preparing them.
Nutricosmetics
You Are What You Eat: Nutrient Ratio Affects Skin Structure
New research out of Australia and Norway shows, in a mouse model, how nutrition impacts the structure of skin. Interestingly, the ratio of nutrients had a larger impact than total intake; and the results were gender-dependent.
Natural/Sustainable
Patent Pick: Plant Extracts Treat the Root Cause of Aging
'Rooted' in a new solution to extend cell longevity and delay aging are plant extracts including black cohosh, Valerian, ginkgo biloba, celery seed, white willow and passion flower, according to these inventors.
Literature/Data
Seeing the Forest Through Dermocosmetic Trees
European researchers were barking up the right trees when they examined 30 extracts from 10 tree barks for their potential in dermocosmetic applications.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Hydration Detection as Simple as a Selfie?
What do you get when you cross the selfie with skin care research and a few brilliant engineers? The mobile turgor test.
Event Coverage
PODCAST: IFSCC Brings Spectacular Science and Ponchos (Just in Case)
"This year's IFSCC Congress will be spectacular—and the best one yet," Guy Padulo, event chair, promises. Listen to this podcast to learn more.
Efficacy
Prove It: At-home Use Studies
In-home usage studies put your beauty care brand to the test and yield compelling consumer claims.
Literature/Data
Bee Venom is Back in the Buzz
Bee venom is back, this time with data. According to a thesis from the University of Strathclyde, previous reports of its effects were anecdotal and incomplete. Now there's science backing it; especially in terms of safety.
Tech Transfer
Hitting a Moving Target: Skin
These authors were on a mission: to determine how accurate models that simulate real skin movement really are. While forensics or biomedicine especially benefit from these technologies, so too could cosmetic efficacy testing and claims substantiation.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Calculated Fragrancing
Ask any perfumer and they'll tell you: perfumery is an art. Just like cosmetic formulating is a craft. Now, P&G scientists are putting this creative process to modeling—not to take away its "soul," but to optimize it.
Literature/Data
Perking Up Skin: Green Coffee Promotes Barrier Recovery, Turn Over and Lightening
Epidermal barrier recovery and the desquamation of dead corneocytes reinvigorate aged skin. Hyperpigmentation accumulates as skin ages. A green coffee bean extract was tested here and found to address these issues.
Efficacy
'Mirror, Mirror, in the Internet of Things. . .
...use great caution with the advice you bring.' Just what we need. Another critic scrutinizing appearance. And before coffee no less. Yet, this unbiased, digitized evaluation offers interesting potential; and if we don't like it, we can always turn it off.
Safety/Stability
PCPC's Beth Jonas Defends Cosmetic Science to the U.S. Senate
It's nice to see our government liaison supporting our scientists' efforts by standing up to share with others the notion that cosmetic science is real.
Efficacy
Editor's Note: Positive Vibes
Intuition, vibe, instinct, gut feeling—most of us have experienced it. Science has tried to measure it. What does this have to do with cosmetics? Well, everything.
Efficacy
Quantifying Wellness: Anti-aging Benefits Beyond Wrinkle Reduction
Rather than anti-aging claims, these authors sought to quantify well-being as it relates to the effects of a new active: centcyamine. The authors confirmed a correlation between well-being scores, instrumental observations, self-assessment and, indirectly, in vitro mechanistic data.
Efficacy
The Dirty Truth About Pollution-induced Skin Aging: The AhR Pathway Tells All
Studies have shown that exposure to airborne, traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates, these researchers developed an in vitro model to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation of genes indicative for premature aging.
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