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Section: Research > Methods/Tools

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Facial Sheet Masks on the Go: Reviving the Face

Facial sheet masks have numerous benefits, such as delivering active materials to the skin and leaving the face feeling moisturized. Innovations in sheet masks are on the rise, and formulators are searching for new materials that are safer, friendlier for the skin and environment, and sensorially pleasing.

Protection of Retinol in Organosilica Microparticles

In this article, retinol encapsulated in organosilica microparticles (12–14% w/w) having an average particle size of 0.3 micron are shown in a 40-day test period to exhibit enhanced stability to oxidation when compared with similar commercial stabilized retinol products.

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Hair Loss, Uprooted: Follicle Protection with Yerba Santa

Oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and pollution causes damage to the hair follicle and contributes to premature hair loss. In response, a Yerba santa extract was assessed for its capability to protect hair follicles from oxidative damage and to reduce premature hair loss.

Emotion, Visualization and Innovation at IFSCC in Rio

The IFSCC conference covered an array of subjects—from the psychology of rotating brushes, and discussion of neuron-adipocyte crosstalk to limit emotional stress-mediated fat accumulation; to hair straightening and conditioning, various visualization tools, and novel formulation approaches.

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Sticking it to Hair Damage: Delivery Duo Protects and Repairs Inside and Out

To adequately protect hair from damage, an efficient solution should offer not only high coverage externally, but also penetrate hair to impart reparative effects internally. The present study explores the ability of a dual technology to provide these benefits, as demonstrated via analytical techniques.

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Speeding Up R&D: Spotting Clues to Anticipate Stability Problems

Besides directing cosmetic beginners to read the abundant literature in the field of stability, the aim of this article is to give some clues for starting stability matters “with the right foot”—indeed, to anticipate stability problems helps to speed up the R&D process.

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How Standardized Propolis Extraction Yields a Derm-grade Anti-inflammaging Active

Propolis' natural variability challenges consistent extraction, so an alternative non-alcoholic technology was designed to optimize and standardize this. The resulting derm-grade propolis was tested for anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and other benefits.

Antiaging in a Different Light: Assessing How Chromophores Color Perception

Aging influences cutaneous parameters that give rise to progressive changes in three skin chromophores, altering the visual homogeneity of skin. To address these changes, the authors developed and examined the effects of a complex based on Siegesbeckia orientalis and Rabdosia rubescens using a novel skin imaging technique.

Whether the industry likes it or not, ingredients or finished formulas require claims substantiation, and neither suppliers nor customers can pass this responsibility on to one another.

Want the Truth: Claims Development is More Than Just Evidence.*

Both marketing and R&D have major responsibilities in the claims development process. But that’s not all—regulations, risk, vulnerabilities, communication, study design, costs and more also are at play. These and other influences in the claims development process are discussed in the present article.

IFSCC 2014 Explores Social, Psychological and Sensorial Aspects of Beauty

As one might expect from an event centered around beauty and staged in Paris, the 28th Congress of the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) was nothing less than fabulous. However, the glamour and fanfare was deeply rooted in science.

Sustainable Ingredients and Innovation in Cosmetics

Demands for innovation and nature in personal care products have, until now, experienced parallel growth according to consumer perception; i.e., the need for efficacy and the need for purity. Considering these diverse views, this article explores how it is possible to create products that satisfy both via sustainability; bringing natural sourcing to ingredients that are innovative and scientifically proven.

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Biocatalyst for Change, Part II: Strategies to Engineer Pigment Production

Anthocyanins are flavonoid compounds found naturally in plants with promising potential for skin health and protection benefits. Sustaining their natural supply for industry has become increasingly important; as such, microbial routes for their production have been explored, such as those described here.

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Safer Solar Protection Part II, Going Beyond UV Defense

Recent research has focused on nature’s ways of protecting living organisms, from plankton and cyanobacteria to humans, from the sun. With the proper topical delivery systems, some of these biomechanisms may prove beneficial to consumers and marketers.

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Into the Blue: Novel Test Reveals Blue Light Damage, Protection Strategies

The negative effects of visible or blue light on skin are not fully understood. This article describes a model to test for potential damage and screen for compounds to suppress it. Results confirm blue light induces cutaneous damage, and a 3-D strategy of UV filters, vitamins and plant extracts suppresses it.

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Garbage to Glamour: Recycling Food by-products for Skin Care

Coffee, tomato, olive and citrus waste have a negative impact on the environment and economy. Recycling this waste could lower its impact and increase the sustainability of these ingredients. Waste from food processing is rich in healthy compounds that can be recycled into cosmetic formulations for various skin benefits.

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Photostability Leads the Way: Formulating Safer Sunscreens

The need to prevent skin from UV damage is well-understood but the most effective way to achieve this is not. Here, a novel photostabilizer is presented in a test pump sunscreen spray formula as part of a total photoprotection strategy.

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Cold Stress Damage, Banished: Daphne odora Extract Improves Skin Moisture and Healing

Cold stress can affect the integrity of the skin. In relation, compounds synthesized by plants under environmental stress have been characterized for their protective effects; although limited data relates to cold stress. This article explores an extract from Daphne odora cell cultures to address cold stress-related damage including dryness, cutaneous micro-lesions and inflammation.

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Safer Solar Protection: Going Beyond UV Defense, Part I

This two-part article is controversial. In part I, it reviews a number of concerns about the safety of traditional sunscreens. In part II, scheduled for February, the authors propose new approaches to move past these issues.

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