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Natural/Sustainable
Precision Climate Farming for Sustainable Beauty: A Microgreens Case Study
Precision climate farming is described here to sustainably cultivate and optimize plant extracts. Examples of arugala and cress microgreens are given, which were tested for antioxidant, TEWL and moisturizing effects and cleansing efficacy in a balm.
Skin Care
Formulating Ferulic Acid for Antioxidation
Joseph Laszlo, PhD, lead scientist for the US Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Biocatalytic Functionalization of Plant Lipids project, and his team have developed a process through which vegetable oil, in this case soybean oil, can be given antioxidant and UVA/UVB protective capabilities.
Methods/Tools
Garbage to Glamour: Recycling Food by-products for Skin Care
Coffee, tomato, olive and citrus waste have a negative impact on the environment and economy. Recycling this waste could lower its impact and increase the sustainability of these ingredients. Waste from food processing is rich in healthy compounds that can be recycled into cosmetic formulations for various skin benefits.
Methods/Tools
Sustainable Ingredient Science: Amazonian Aguaje and Pequi Palm Oils
The food and nutrition supply chain is often the first entry for “super plants” from the Amazon to the market, but other applications are increasing, especially in personal care and cosmetics. The present article profiles two Amazonian palm oils, aguaje and pequi, in terms of their sustainability, chemistry and application.
Literature/Data
Unlocking Nature: The Secrets of Effective Botanical Extracts
To identify high-performing extracts, it is essential to deeply analyze the phytochemical composition of botanicals and correlate these specific chemical profiles with their functional benefits in hair care.
Methods/Tools
Total Exposure: The Future of Sun Care is Full Light Protection
History has revealed what has become well-known today: the human skin requires sun protection. But are UV filters enough? Here, the authors discuss the negative effects caused by other wavelengths. In addition, they propose a full light defense strategy.
Methods/Tools
Editor's Note: Discontinuity and Your Inner Innovator
One innovative mash-up has been capturing consumer dollars: multifunctional color cosmetics. Whether fortified with SPF or moisturizing properties, makeup with added benefits is driving color sales. In relation, this month, we've created our own color and sun mash-up.
Claims/Labeling
Is ‘Anti-pollution’ Just a Ruse?
Remember "naturals?" Where did they lead us? In some cases, to benefit-infused natural products but in others, to greenwashing and chemical-free claims. Enter anti-pollution.
Actives
How Standardized Propolis Extraction Yields a Derm-grade Anti-inflammaging Active
Propolis' natural variability challenges consistent extraction, so an alternative non-alcoholic technology was designed to optimize and standardize this. The resulting derm-grade propolis was tested for anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and other benefits.
Methods/Tools
Words from Wiechers on 'Shaken, Not Stirred' Cosmetics R&D
In this installment of our Words from Wiechers series, the late author encourages the industry to put more energy into products; i.e., "shaking, not stirring" them, for more innovative outcomes.
Methods/Tools
Hair Loss, Uprooted: Follicle Protection with
Yerba Santa
Oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and pollution causes damage to the hair follicle and contributes to premature hair loss. In response, a
Yerba santa
extract was assessed for its capability to protect hair follicles from oxidative damage and to reduce premature hair loss.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—PUFA Production, Biodegradable Elastomers, Xanthohumol-Enriched Hop Extract and More
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features eco-friendly and sustainable processes as well as nature-derived ingredients for personal care applications.
Methods/Tools
Sustainable Ingredients and Innovation in Cosmetics
Demands for innovation and nature in personal care products have, until now, experienced parallel growth according to consumer perception; i.e., the need for efficacy and the need for purity. Considering these diverse views, this article explores how it is possible to create products that satisfy both via sustainability; bringing natural sourcing to ingredients that are innovative and scientifically proven.
Natural/Sustainable
Fermentation Cosmetics: Bubbling Over With Innovation, Literally
While fermentation is perhaps best known for its application in food production, the process has gained interest from the cosmetics industry. This article briefly reviews recent examples of fermentation ingredients in cosmetics.
Natural/Sustainable
How Advances in Biotech Empower Natural and Blue Beauty
Tammy Yaiser is a product innovator and developer, and was the lead formulator behind Algenist’s award-winning advanced biotechnology formulations. In this interview, she shares her views of how biotechnology not only fits into, but also advances beauty.
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Consumers/Market
Amorepacific Reveals Visions on China, Sustainability and More
in-cosmetics Korea interviews Paul Kang, senior vice president, skin care division, of Amorepacific’s R&D unit. Amorepacific is Korea’s leading cosmetic manufacturer and here, Kang shares insights into the Asian beauty market, fusion products, sustainability and silver consumers.
Consumers/Market
Breaking Down Under-eye Baggage: The Need for Novel Delivery
The under-eye area is delicate, with thin skin prone to dark circles, swelling and wrinkles. Novel delivery techniques that take this region’s physiology into account can help to facilitate under-eye skin health.
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