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Claims/Labeling
Is ‘Anti-pollution’ Just a Ruse?
Remember "naturals?" Where did they lead us? In some cases, to benefit-infused natural products but in others, to greenwashing and chemical-free claims. Enter anti-pollution.
Method/Process
Capillary Electrophoresis: ‘Green’ Method to Quantify Cosmetic Components
In relation, in his Ph.D. thesis, Josu López, researcher, developed and applied three “green” analytical methods to simultaneously analyze and quantify various components used in cosmetics.
Literature/Data
New Study Investigates Potential for Sea Lettuce as Natural Anti-Aging Ingredient
High levels of phenolics and flavonoids contributed to anti-melanogenesis activity and collagen biosynthesis.
Methods/Tools
InGreen Project Outlines Biotech Approaches for Upcycled Beauty
The EU-funded Ingreen project seeks to optimize biotechnological processes through partnerships to recover from side streams valuable bioactive compounds, chemicals and ingredients compatible with industrial needs.
Literature/Data
Partnership Studies Mitochondria to Assess Screen Light Effects on Skin
For those taking in the spirit of Halloween last week, there is an all-too familiar horror to behold … skin damage caused by light from electronic devices. Gattefossé has recognized this skin terror and is teaming up with CYTOO to examine it more closely; via cellular mitochondria.
Actives
How Standardized Propolis Extraction Yields a Derm-grade Anti-inflammaging Active
Propolis' natural variability challenges consistent extraction, so an alternative non-alcoholic technology was designed to optimize and standardize this. The resulting derm-grade propolis was tested for anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and other benefits.
Methods/Tools
Words from Wiechers on 'Shaken, Not Stirred' Cosmetics R&D
In this installment of our Words from Wiechers series, the late author encourages the industry to put more energy into products; i.e., "shaking, not stirring" them, for more innovative outcomes.
Skin Care
L'Oreal Teams with Derms to Promote Caring for Your Microbiome
L'Oreal is focusing on dermatologist-approved products that support a healthy skin microbiome, which is a key component of skin health.
Methods/Tools
Hair Loss, Uprooted: Follicle Protection with
Yerba Santa
Oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and pollution causes damage to the hair follicle and contributes to premature hair loss. In response, a
Yerba santa
extract was assessed for its capability to protect hair follicles from oxidative damage and to reduce premature hair loss.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—PUFA Production, Biodegradable Elastomers, Xanthohumol-Enriched Hop Extract and More
Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features eco-friendly and sustainable processes as well as nature-derived ingredients for personal care applications.
Methods/Tools
"Free From" Formulations
When the “free from” claim first appeared in 2002, it referred to beauty products that did not contain synthetic fragrances or colorants. Since then, the list has expanded to include free from mineral oil, petrochemicals.
Methods/Tools
Sustainable Ingredients and Innovation in Cosmetics
Demands for innovation and nature in personal care products have, until now, experienced parallel growth according to consumer perception; i.e., the need for efficacy and the need for purity. Considering these diverse views, this article explores how it is possible to create products that satisfy both via sustainability; bringing natural sourcing to ingredients that are innovative and scientifically proven.
Natural/Sustainable
Fermentation Cosmetics: Bubbling Over With Innovation, Literally
While fermentation is perhaps best known for its application in food production, the process has gained interest from the cosmetics industry. This article briefly reviews recent examples of fermentation ingredients in cosmetics.
Companies
Top Green Preservatives Awarded
Forty-eight innovators participated in the Green Chemistry and Commerce Council's green preservative challenge, but only seven came out on top.
Natural/Sustainable
How Advances in Biotech Empower Natural and Blue Beauty
Tammy Yaiser is a product innovator and developer, and was the lead formulator behind Algenist’s award-winning advanced biotechnology formulations. In this interview, she shares her views of how biotechnology not only fits into, but also advances beauty.
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Consumers/Market
Amorepacific Reveals Visions on China, Sustainability and More
in-cosmetics Korea interviews Paul Kang, senior vice president, skin care division, of Amorepacific’s R&D unit. Amorepacific is Korea’s leading cosmetic manufacturer and here, Kang shares insights into the Asian beauty market, fusion products, sustainability and silver consumers.
Consumers/Market
Breaking Down Under-eye Baggage: The Need for Novel Delivery
The under-eye area is delicate, with thin skin prone to dark circles, swelling and wrinkles. Novel delivery techniques that take this region’s physiology into account can help to facilitate under-eye skin health.
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