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120 Results
Type: Article
Section: Research > Methods/Tools
Literature/Data
Lipsticks: How They Have Changed and Where They Are Going
The composition of lipstick formulations and means of manufacturing and filling them have progressed significantly in the last 100 years. This article reviews the most notable developments in methods of production, innovations in both functional and active ingredients, and breakthroughs in processing. In addition, it explores what the future could hold for lipsticks.
Color Cosmetics
[with formulas] Comparatively Speaking: Traditional vs. Transfer-resistant Lipstick
This installment of the "Comparatively Speaking" column offers formulators a "Lipstick 101" primer, complete with step-by-step instructions, quality control considerations, and standard vs. transfer-resistant sample formulas.
Color Cosmetics
Lip-smacking Results: Mixture Design ‘Pays Off’ to Optimize Wax/Oil Lipstick Ratio
This article explores Mixture Design for lipstick development. The approach models the blending surface with a suitable mathematical equation to identify ideal ingredient ratios. As is shown here, Mixture Design can effectively optimize lipstick formulations, saving development time and costs.
Skin Care
Facial Sheet Masks on the Go: Reviving the Face
Facial sheet masks have numerous benefits, such as delivering active materials to the skin and leaving the face feeling moisturized. Innovations in sheet masks are on the rise, and formulators are searching for new materials that are safer, friendlier for the skin and environment, and sensorially pleasing.
Method/Process
The Effect of Skin Metabolism on the Absorption of Chemicals
Skin expresses enzymes that can metabolize endogenous molecules but little is known regarding how they impact the delivery of xenobiotics. This review of recent works shows that skin metabolism alters the dermal absorption of lipophilic compounds, which opens new areas of investigation regarding the safety and efficacy of topically applied cosmetics.
Method/Process
The Effect of Skin Metabolism on the Absorption of Chemicals
Skin expresses enzymes that can metabolize endogenous molecules but little is known regarding how they impact the delivery of xenobiotics. This review of recent works shows that skin metabolism alters the dermal absorption of lipophilic compounds, which opens new areas of investigation regarding the safety and efficacy of topically applied cosmetics.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: In the Land of the Blind, the One-eyed Man is King
"Regulatory bodies claim that everything should be tested against a placebo, but they should also learn to see there is a difference between fundamental science and applied science," the late Johann Wiechers, Ph.D., writes, in this month's column. He also explains blinded studies.
Methods/Tools
Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception
This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.
Efficacy
Beating the Damaging Effects of Heat on Hair
Heat treatments are among the more popular methods for achieving straight hair, yet their high temperatures are quite damaging to the hair’s structures. Learn about the damaging effects and suggested solutions for repairing heat-damaged hair.
Methods/Tools
Validating the Effectiveness of Rubbing on Percutaneous Penetration
The effect of rubbing on percutaneous penetration has long been questioned. Existing data regarding rubbing effects is sparse, and what is available is controversial at best. While some evidence suggests that rubbing increases absorption, others note the opposite. Further understanding of the rubbing effect on percutaneous penetration may offer a more complete picture in relation to the application of drugs, cosmetics and skin care.
Methods/Tools
Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception
This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.
Actives
Don’t Count On Genetics, Sunscreens are the Best Bet
In a podcast with P&G scientists Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. and Rosemarie Osborne, Ph.D.,
Cosmetics & Toiletries
learned about genetic studies in support of the Olay brand, and more. Following is an excerpt.
Literature/Data
Shaving and its Effects on Percutaneous Absorption in the Skin*
Despite its being an area of concern for many years, the percutaneous absorption of cosmetics has not been rigorously studied. Additionally, the effects of shaving on this process are relatively unknown. An overview of recent research reveals that more research in this area is required.
Methods/Tools
Exploring the Deep Impact of Artificial Intelligence on Modern Beauty
Applications for AI for beauty have emerged in everything: from product advice and trials/sampling to ingredient discovery, formulation optimization and more. This article gives an overview of these applications to show just how far the industry has come.
Methods/Tools
How the Fungal Mycobiome Uncovers Insights on Skin Health and Aging
The fungal mycobiome reveals new insights about the skin microbiome, health and aging, as is shown here. This could unlock advanced dermatological insights for the development of innovative skin care products.
Literature/Data
The Unidentified Role of Sunscreen in Treating Hyperpigmentation Taking on a New Responsibility
What is sunscreen’s role in treating hyperpigmentation? We ran clinical trials using depigmenting agents and sunscreen to assess sunscreen’s treatment purpose. We then surveyed study design, objective, intervention, how investigators utilize sunscreen and measurements of efficacy to further the findings.
Literature/Data
Online Research Directory
The Internet is a rich source of information; however, with such breadth of ever-changing content, it can be challenging to search and find relevant information quickly. Thus, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine has compiled this Online Research Directory to make researching online easier. This directory, while not exhaustive, puts a significant number of resources related to cosmetics R&D at your fingertips, including associations, organizations, government agencies, regulatory bodies, certification groups and universities. This list will continually evolve as new sources emerge.
Organic/COSMOS
Words from Wiechers on 'Naturals'
In this installment of our Words from Wiechers series, the late Johann challenges us to question the concept of
natural
, as its meaning has become distorted.
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