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Section: Research > Literature/Data

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EpigenCare Offers Personalized Skin Care via Epigenetics

The company matches consumers to existing skin care products based on their epigenetic profile and skin quality indicators, including aging and DNA damage.

Validating the Effectiveness of Rubbing on Percutaneous Penetration

The effect of rubbing on percutaneous penetration has long been questioned. Existing data regarding rubbing effects is sparse, and what is available is controversial at best. While some evidence suggests that rubbing increases absorption, others note the opposite. Further understanding of the rubbing effect on percutaneous penetration may offer a more complete picture in relation to the application of drugs, cosmetics and skin care.

A Dermatological View—Percutaneous Penetration of Amino Acids

Skin care products containing amino acids often promote the benefits conferred on the skin by these molecules. Natural amino acids found in the skin have been found to improve the health of skin through antioxidation, membrane stabilization and increasing skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF).

Improving the Solubility of Benzoyl Peroxide: A Review

In this review, the authors examine studies relating to the solubility of BPO. The clinical trials discussed show that compared with suspended BPO, BPO solubilized by dimethyl isosorbide reduced P. acnes and decreased both inflammatory lesions/irritation and the emergence of antibiotic-resistant P. acnes strains. This reveals the importance of solubilizing BPO for improved efficacy and safety.

Spontaneous Formation of Liposomes from Lamellar Liquid Crystals

The authors describe a new technology to formulate liposomes by diluting a lamellar liquid crystalline phase with water, producing lipsomes in a single step.

Sunscreens and Other Products

Takagi et al report on the barrier reinforcing function of synthetic compounds called quasi-ceramides.

Smoking and Premature Aging

Multiple environmental factors are associated with facial aging; evidence suggests that smoking 20 cigarettes per day is equivalent in effect to almost 10 years of chronological aging. Therefore, lifestyle recommendations to stop or delay facial skin aging are also very useful in promoting public health.

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The Depths of Hair Dyes: Understanding Users, Formulating Answers

The present article touches on misconceptions about ammonia- versus monoethanolamine-based hair dyes. It also analyzes the facts about these ingredients to arm formulators with both the consumer perspective and scientific rationale for ingredient choices.

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It's Time to Take Advantage of the Skin Microbiome

Scientific findings suggest that more cosmetic applications to leverage the skin microbiome are on the way, from sun care to anti-aging products.

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Research Reveals Additive-free Synthesis of Low Hydrolysis Amphiphiles

Research published in Angewandte Chemie demonstrates mixing via the Staudinger reaction has the capability to synthesize amphiphilic molecules without the use of catalysts or reagents.

Formulating Focus: The Influence of Emollients on Skin Penetration

This column will discuss ways in which ingredients can positively affect the partition coefficient of the active between the formula and the skin. By carefully selecting the emollients used in a formulation, formulators can increase the delivery and clinical efficacy of a formulation without increasing the level of the active ingredient.

Formulating Focus: The Influence of Emollients on Skin Penetration

This column will discuss ways in which ingredients can positively affect the partition coefficient of the active between the formula and the skin. By carefully selecting the emollients used in a formulation, formulators can increase the delivery and clinical efficacy of a formulation without increasing the level of the active ingredient.

The pH of the Stratum Corneum: An Update

The pH gradient results from enzymatic processes within the SC's major acidic skin components. The lowered pH near the skin's surface contributes to desquamation and lipid processing.

Bakuchiol Shown to Reverse Cellular Mechanisms of Facial Aging

A paper published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science describes work to determine the activity profile of bakuchiol in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo in comparison with retinol.

Wine-making by-products in particular grape pomaces have been of great interest to the cosmetic industry due to phenolic compounds. Applications with wine by-products were analyzed to study effectiveness and stability.

Researchers Valorize the Utility of Wine Byproducts for Cosmetics

Wine-making byproducts such as grape pomace, which are rich in phenolic compounds, have drawn interest from the cosmetics industry. A paper published in Cosmetics reviews the literature to validate their utility in cosmetics.

Most Rosa centifolia-derived ingredients are reported to function as skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products. Other functions associated with ingredients in this group include abrasives, antioxidants, fragrance ingredients and skin protectants.

CIR Assesses Safety of Rosa Centifolia Derivatives in Cosmetics

The CIR reviewed the safety of Rosa centifolia-derived ingredients, most of which are reported to function as skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products; read on for the findings.

Comparatively Speaking: Molecular Notation of Compounds vs. Compositions

In this look at representative chemical structures, Tony O'Lenick compares the structural notation of molecules present in sodium chloride with those present in sodium polymethacrylate.

A Century of Patents: From Peanut to Polymers

A brief survey of cosmetic patents discussed in 100 years of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine discloses how ingredients and technologies have evolved from simple to sophisticated.

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