Researchers have published a review in the journal Cosmetics valorizing the utility of extracts derived from wine-making byproducts for cosmetics and oral care; although the authors note the extraction process must be carefully considered.
Grape pomaces are particularly rich in bioactive molecules, especially phenolic compounds. These materials can be recovered and used as active ingredients in cosmetic products.
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The link between the extraction parameters, the recovered components and their influence on the stability of the cosmetic formulations needs to be further investigated.
The article reviewed strategies for the recovery of polyphenols, including ultrasound, supercritical fluid, maceration, enzyme-assisted, percolation and traditional solid liquid extraction, noting the traditional hydroethanolic solid-liquid extraction is still the most widely used. The main bioactive compounds identified in the extracts included gallic acid, catechin, epicatechin, epicatechin gallate and quercetin, some of which were linked to biological activity.
In vitro tests confirmed the potential of such extracts to impart skin benefits such as antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-hyperpigmentation and photoprotective effects. Products incorporating the extracts at 1% to 10% in freeze-dried form or liquid form also were tested for stability and in vitro/vivo efficacy; creams, lotions, serums, toothpastes and serums were described.
Results suggested the extracts imparted antioxidant effects and increased the SPF value in sunscreens. Further, the extracts boosted the penetration rate of gel-based serum into the skin. The stability of the extracts were confirmed in an anti-aging cream that was shown to reduce pore size and skin roughness, and increase elasticity, sebum and hydration. Finally, toothpaste enriched with aqueous extracts lost its polyphenol content after four months, whereas the content in toothpaste with ethanolic extracts remained stable. See the open access article for additional details.
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The researchers concluded it is important to master the extraction process to control the quantity and quality of the recovered polyphenols. They added that the link between the extraction parameters, the recovered components and their influence on the stability of the cosmetic formulations needs to be further investigated.
