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Section: Research > Literature/Data

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Fantastic Feats of Protean Cosmetic Ingredients

Protean refers to flexible, versatile and adaptable ingredients, which assume many roles in formulations. Several notable multi-tasking ‘stars’ such as these are in the cosmetic raw materials universe. Their astonishing behaviors are described here.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: The Power of Suggestion

In this edition of our Words from Wiechers series, the late author explains the power of belief in product efficacy—and why products should be evaluated based on the perceived value they deliver to consumers.

DNA Helix

Study of Twins Correlates Aging with Genetics

While up to 40% of aging-related changes in skin are due to non-genetic factors, a recent study found a high correlation between the photodamage scores among both monozygotic (identical) and dizygotic (fraternal) twins.

Hard Water Raises Risk of Infant Eczema

Researchers from King's College London have uncovered a new hard (water) truth: hard water, i.e., that containing higher levels of calcium carbonate, increases the risk of eczema in infants.

genemutationagingstudy_np2

Study Shows You Can Turn Off Aging

A research group from the University of Alabama at Birmingham may have just discovered the scientific fountain of youth. Their test results show that aging is a genetic mutation that we might just be able to turn off.

Measles, Mumps and Acne?

Chun-Ming (Eric) Huang, PhD, and his team at the University of California, San Diego, have developed what they believe to be a vaccine for acne.

Hormesis and Cosmetic Dermatology

This review examines hormetic effects of various agents on skin biology. Recognition of this emerging biological phenomenon in dermatology could lead to markedly improved integrative assessments of animal/human skin responses to toxic substances and pharmacological agents, as well as endogenous agonists.

Defining and Controlling Frizz

There is likely a variety of causes and contributors to the nebulous consumer term “frizz.” This article attempts to craft a universal definition and then progresses to further examine impacting factors. These discussions focus on methods for quantifying hair properties and assessing the positive impact of commercial hair care products.

Sunscreens and Other Products

Modulation of zinc levels and tissue properties: Essentia Biosystems discloses the modulation of zinc levels to improve tissue properties. Methods of altering the properties of tissues were explored by modifying the amount of zinc, which may be in the form of zinc ions, through the use of topical compositions containing one or more zinc-containing components such as salts and/or other zinc compounds or in complexes, particularly zinc acetate. By altering the zinc levels, researchers found they were able to increase or decrease fatty tissue, increase or decrease epidermal thickness, increase elastin content, and prevent or treat gum regression or atrophy.

Ceramides and Other Topics

Schreiner et al. have investigated the barrier characteristics of different human skin types with X-ray diffraction, lipid analysis and electron microscopy imaging.

SCC Launches Digital Archive of Journal

According to the SCC, all issues going back to the journal's first issue have been digitized and are online and fully searchable.

Topical Delivery of Skin Care Ingredients

Incorporating performance ingredients in a formula does not guarantee they will penetrate the skin and deliver the claimed benefits. This review presents topical delivery approaches introduced in the past five years to improve the efficacy of benefit ingredients for skin care. Examples include molecular, carrier and Trojan horse delivery. Non-conventional delivery systems also are described.

The Organized Chaos of Biological Mechanisms

This chaotic column is about biological mechanisms. How, why and what for?

Innovations in transfer resistance and long wear makeup have continued apace, and it certainly appears that advances in this field will continue for the foreseeable future.

Two Decades of Transfer-resistant Lipstick

It has been two decades since Revlon revolutionized the color cosmetic market by debuting transfer-resistant lipstick. Innovations in transfer resistance and long wear makeup have continued apace, and it certainly appears that advances in this field will continue for the foreseeable future. This article reviews the literature to show the evolution of chemistries and concepts in this prominent market.

Antiperspirants and Other Topics

Emulsions made of monoesters and polymers: L’Oréal discloses interesting oil-in-water cosmetic emulsions consisting of monoesters and polymers.

Corneocare and Comfort Science

At the Skin Forum 2013 event in London, the seven pillars of “corneocare,” were introduced, which targeted: the epidermal tissue at the molecular, cellular and structural level; epidermal function; tactile experience; appearance and sensation. This is one of the first concepts in personal care to close the gap between consumer perception and a scientific approach.

A Brief Review of Polymer/Surfactant Interaction

In this article, the significance of parameters such as correlation length (blob size), micelle structure, comicellization, polymer adsorption conformation and coacervate structure are introduced with relevance to the conceptual appreciation of polymer-surfactant interactions and its bearing on recent advances in conditioning shampoos.

IFSCC Probes into the Biology of Cosmetics

Parrot feathers, stem cells, melanin, cellulite and epidermal tight junctions were among the many biology-themed papers presented during the 25th IFSCC Congress, held Oct. 6–9, 2008, in Barcelona. This heavy focus on biology is indicative of the evolving actives arena and likely a direct response to the antiaging consumer trend.

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