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Section: Formulas/Products > Sun Care
Literature/Data
Soaking up the Self-Tan: The Pros and Cons of DHA and Self-tanners
Many people utilize non-UV tanning methods to meet fashion demands without exposing themselves to UV radiation. This article reviews the health benefits and possible drawbacks of dihydroxyacetone, the main active ingredient in self-tanning products.
Methods/Tools
Sustainable Ingredient Science: Amazonian Aguaje and Pequi Palm Oils
The food and nutrition supply chain is often the first entry for “super plants” from the Amazon to the market, but other applications are increasing, especially in personal care and cosmetics. The present article profiles two Amazonian palm oils, aguaje and pequi, in terms of their sustainability, chemistry and application.
Event Coverage
6 New Trends in Cosmetic Technology
The topics described during in this conference session were but a sampling of innovation scattered throughout the in-cosmetics Global show floor. But their overall tone seemed to accurately reflect a larger future direction of the industry.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Testing Tactics in Skin: A View of Visible Light Protection
Blue light, in particular, may be responsible for most of the adverse skin reactions caused by visible wavelengths. This column reviews methods to screen for materials that protect against blue light but also allow its benefits to shine through.
Sun Care
Advancing Sun Protection: High SPF, ROS Targeting, Eco-friendly and Reef Safe, Elegant, Fun, Self-adapting and More
As if formulating sunscreens wasn’t difficult enough, the market is pushing SPF protection to new levels of sophistication. Innovations like those described here, to extend and hybridize sunscreens, will be key to rising sun care expectations.
Actives
Spot-lightening Treatments
Facial pigmentation increases with age and sun exposure, and represents an aesthetic problem for many. Multiple strategies are required for the cosmetic treatment of such imperfections, including accelerating skin renewal, inhibiting free radicals, providing photoprotection, prohibiting melanin granule formation and transfer, reducing pigmentation with sequestering agents, and enhancing skin penetration. These are described here.
Event Coverage
Which Indie Beauty Formulas Will Take Home a
C&T Allē
in 2024?
Which indie formulas will win C&T Allē Awards in 2024? Find out at our exclusive red carpet-style awards dinner on March 6, 2024, at the Biltmore in Los Angeles – alongside our inspiring
Beauty Accelerate
event. Following are the contenders...
Efficacy
Smart Lipid-carotene System for Targeted Free Radical-Scavenging
In this study, the authors evaluated the effectiveness of a new smart lipid system in stabilizing and delivering carotenes into the epidermis. The system is shown effective in providing free-radical (FR) scavenging at different stages of skin exposure: immediately neutralizing FR present in the skin, blocking FR formation during UV exposure, and accelerating skin recovery after UV exposure.
Natural/Sustainable
Nature-inspired Innovation
The intersection of R&D and consumer needs.
Sun Care
Formula Anatomy Deciphered—Sun Damage Prevention and Repair
It is obvious that UVA and UVB radiation damage human skin. Therefore, the question of whether UV damaged skin can be adequately repaired remains to be answered.
Skin Care
Speeding Up R&D: Spotting Clues to Anticipate Stability Problems
Besides directing cosmetic beginners to read the abundant literature in the field of stability, the aim of this article is to give some clues for starting stability matters “with the right foot”—indeed, to anticipate stability problems helps to speed up the R&D process.
Actives
UVA Skin Protection: Issues and New Developments
Photoinduced degradation and activity in chemical and mineral UV-absorbing actives results in a decrease in UVA protection during topical use, with a corresponding risk of skin pathologies in the user. New developments in UV absorbers are shown to maintain a stable, high level of UVA protection during use.
Actives
Chitin Nanofibrils for Improved Photoprotection
Chitin nanofibrils (CN) are capable of interacting with cosmetic actives by binding to the stratum corneum, thus influencing their thermodynamic activity. Here, the authors test various sunscreen samples and determine that the addition of CN provides an interesting boost to the photoprotective activity of sunscreens.
Literature/Data
Carotenoids for Dietary Photoprotection
Sun exposure leads to the production of free radicals in skin and to damage to elastin and collagen, resulting in premature aging. Studies of consuming carotenoid-rich fruits and vegetables have shown lower incidences of skin pathology. Carotenoids are among the most efficient natural scavengers of free radicals and may be used as oral sun protection, as is discussed here.
Actives
Inhibiting Cathepsin G to Protect Against Photoaging and Infra’aging
Ultraviolet and infrared exposure are sources of premature skin aging, characterized by solar elastosis and extracellular matrix degradation.
Polygonum aviculare
extract is a cathepsin G inhibitor, and is shown here to oppose photoaging and infra’aging by improving skin firmness and elasticity, in turn reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
Literature/Data
Shadowing Plants: Phytochemicals for Sustainable Sun Protection, A Commentary
Plants have evolved an array of metabolites to face photo-oxidative stress and irradiation. This article offers a commentary about how such phytoconstituents could support the development of effective, natural and sustainable sun protection.
Sun Care
Antioxidants in Sunscreens for Improved ROS Protection
In the present article, sunscreens containing the antioxidants vitamin E and diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate were tested for their efficacy in preventing UV-induced reactive oxygen species in the lower stratum corneum. The addition of the antioxidants was found to significantly improve the ability of low to high SPF sunscreens to attenuate ROS formation in UV-exposed skin.
Anti-aging/Face
Skin Pigmentation 2.0: May 2024 Beauty Trend Tracker
With hyperpigmentation concerns on the rise, ingredient suppliers have launched technologies to address issues related to acne, psoriasis and more.
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