As if formulating sunscreens wasn’t difficult enough, the market is pushing SPF protection to new levels of sophistication. Innovations like those described here, to extend and hybridize sunscreens, will be key to rising sun care expectations.
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As if formulating sunscreens wasn’t difficult enough, the market is pushing SPF protection to new levels of sophistication. Innovations like those described here, to extend and hybridize sunscreens, will be key to rising sun care expectations.
Data from Euromonitor International’s Passport Innovation portal — an AI-powered platform that measures brand launches at online retailers across 54 FMCG categories in 32 countries — points to innovations in proactive skin care and multifunctional sun care as major drivers in beauty and personal care for 2025.1 For sun care in particular, the global appetite has grown for more sophisticated, daily-use skin health formulas such as mineral-based sun protection and self-tanning as an alternative to UVA and UVB exposure.
“The integration of skin care properties into sun care suggests the broader trend is moving toward multifunctional skin care solutions that address multiple skin concerns simultaneously,” Global Cosmetic Industry reported.”1 This means that products that combine sun protection with skin care benefits could appeal to consumers seeking effective and convenient skin care routines, driving growth in sun care.”
The source adds that brands should capitalize on this trend through “functional new launches that address specific problems, such as pores and acne, in addition to offering hypoallergenic formulations suitable for sensitive skin.”
Data from Exploding Topics concurs; as previously reported,2 interest in Korean sunscreens has climbed 194% over the past two years, thanks to advanced formulations, lightweight textures and high efficacy – with added benefit ingredients for hydration, anti-aging effects and skin soothing. What’s more, videos with the hashtag #koreansunscreens have gained 28.4M views on TikTok.
The source also underscored how Korean sunscreens are part of a larger specialty sunscreens meta trend for products that go beyond sun protection, such as:
- ceramide sunscreens to moisturize skin,
- vitamin C sunscreens for antioxidant protection, and
- ginseng and birch juice sunscreens for added anti-inflammation and other benefits.
CosRx, for example, developed its namesake Vitamin E Vitalizing Sunscreen SPF 50+ that per the company, is clinically proven to block UV rays. It also incorporates vitamin E for antioxidant protection and, per the brand, controls oil and sebum.
Turning to the industry, we asked for expert opinions on what’s driving sunscreen innovation today – and what will drive it tomorrow and beyond. Following are their insights.
Sustainable Excipients, High SPF Efficacy
Scott Cardinali, sun care business manager at Hallstar, notes the market is demanding both multifunctional and more effective sun protection. “Two of the biggest trends that we see are the convergence of sun care with anti-aging skin care, and consumers’ appetite for higher SPF protection. Consumers of all skin types now expect their daily use products to deliver SPF 50+ in an aesthetically pleasing way.”
Cardinali also believes the push for eco-friendly and natural sunscreens will be ongoing. “We expect the current trends to continue, with the additional target of increasing sustainability of functional excipients while maintaining exceptional efficacy.”
He points to Hallstar’s SolaPure Glo emollient (INCI: Vegetable Oil (and) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract) as an example of a 100% naturally derived yet highly functioning ingredient for SPF enhancement. “In 2025, watch for Hallstar to deliver some additional highly sustainable technologies for the sun care market,” he adds.
Cardinali also highlights the challenge of meeting consumer performance expectations with what’s currently available to formulators. “The available toolbox of UV filters is limited and regional regulatory activities are further limiting UV filter options. As a result, Hallstar’s customers increasingly rely on our safe and effective photostabilizer and polarity optimization technologies as essential tools to help meet current formulation challenges.”
For example, the company is seeing continued market growth for its heritage SolaStay S1 photostabilizer (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene) and HallBrite BHB solvent (INCI: Butyloctyl Salicylate) excipients in high SPF chemical and mineral formulations. There’s also widespread interest in newer excipients such as the globally approved SolaFresh photostabilizer (INCI: Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate).
“These ingredients help formulators maximize SPF by enhancing UV filter efficacy. The increased efficacy enables a reduction in mineral and/or chemical filter concentrations, leading to less ashiness and a lighter, less greasy aesthetic,” he concludes.
Preventing, Neutralizing UV-induced ROS
“While consumers know that sunscreens can prevent sunburn, they also know that sunscreens alone cannot provide comprehensive protection from sun’s damaging effects,” explains Ratan Chaudhuri, Ph.D., president of Sytheon (now part of Hallstar). “[This is] owing to sun’s ability to stimulate excess production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) within skin. Excess ROS drives premature skin aging and promotes the type of DNA lesions that correlate with skin cancer development even after sun exposure stops.”
Chaudhuri adds that since sunscreens can neither prevent ROS formation nor neutralize ROS once they are formed, technologies that help skin regulate excess sun-induced ROS formation possess “enormous potential” to foster meaningful innovation within sun care.
“Promising approaches include technologies that: 1) physically quench skin’s own endogenous molecules (i.e., photosensitizers) before they can spawn the formation of ROS; or 2) exhibit multifunctional capacity to neutralize all of the most reactive forms of ROS before they can initiate the cascades of damage that precede photoaging or skin cancer development,” he writes.
Per Chaudhuri, Sytheon (now part of Hallstar) recently launched Synoxyl AZ (INCI: Acetyl Zingerone), a plant-inspired pro-longevity molecule, that fulfills both technology attributes. “Studies demonstrate convincingly that AZ can significantly reduce levels of ROS production within skin cells exposed to UV or visible radiation as well as environmental pollutants.”
He continues, “[The ingredient also] can inhibit dark DNA damage within melanocytes post-UV exposure, and attenuate ROS production from one of skin’s most potent endogenous photosensitizers – advanced glycation end products – by facilitating the ability to dissipate its energy of excitation.” Moreover, he adds that AZ is photostable under UV exposure, in contrast to α-tocopherol and other antioxidants.
Fun, Sensorial Formulas and Heightened Consumer Interest
According to Amanda Lam, a formulation chemist at DeWolf, an Azelis Company, light, sensorially elegant sunscreen formulations are currently trending. “Products that don’t leave the skin greasy or give a heavy feeling and that can be used over or under makeup is ideal for consumers seeking multifunctionality and simplified routines,” she explains.
“I also believe that fun, new formats are trending – such as sticks, sprays and mousses. People’s desire to have fun with their beauty and skin care, yet not compromise on feel or efficacy, is what I believe to be driving these trends.”
Lam also notices deeper consumer interest in sunscreens. “Consumers are trying to become more educated on sunscreens/UV filters now more than ever. I have also seen consumers demanding the approval of new UV filters to compete with other markets (particularly the Asian market).” She adds that as consumers become more conscious of the sunscreens they use and the amount they apply, the need for easy reapplication – as well as the excitement of new formats – will continue to be addressed.
“As science communication becomes more vast across social media, I believe there should be a greater science-driven conversation around sunscreens for consumers to truly understand what they are asking for. There is great innovation within the skin care world, so I think being able to tap into some of those novel textures in sun care will invigorate the market.”
Eco Focus, Standardizing ‘Reef-safe’ Testing
Juliana Canellas, executive director of quality excellence and care development for Boticário Group, sees concerns for sustainability and the environment as reshaping sunscreen development. “Demand for ‘reef-safe’ or ‘eco-friendly’ products is increasing as consumers become more aware of the environmental impact on marine ecosystems, particularly coral reefs,” she explains. “This trend is driven not only by consumer awareness, but also by stricter legislation in various regions, prohibiting the use of ingredients such as oxybenzone and octinoxate.”
According to Canellas, the drive for eco-friendly sunscreens is pushing the industry toward fundamental change. “Standardizing the ‘coral-safe’ claim by developing standardized guidelines and testing methods to validate the ‘reef-safe’ claim, emerges as a crucial step,” she writes. “This standardization, in addition to validating the safety of products, drives the research and development of new UV filters and ingredients with lower impact on the marine environment.”
She continues, “the Boticario Group has developed a methodology to assess the impact of sunscreen formulations on coral fragments. This method … can evaluate and quantify any effects such as bleaching and retraction through the statistical analysis of RGB (red, green and blue) values from coral images. This ensures that sunscreens claiming to be ‘reef safe’ are truly safe for coral ecosystems.”
Canellas adds that this standardization not only validates product safety, but also drives the research and development of new UV filters and ingredients with a lower environmental impact. “By investing in these technologies and processes, the beauty industry can meet consumer demands for more sustainable products while innovating in sun protection and contributing to the preservation of coral reefs.”
Personalized, Self-adapting UV Protection
Finally, Judit Camargo Sanromà, CEO and founder of Roka Furadada, believes that two major areas are driving sunscreen innovation: balanced protection by wavelength and personalization by skin type.
In terms of balanced wavelength protection, she observes, “While UVB protection has long been recognized for its link to melanoma, awareness of UVA association to other types of skin cancer and photoaging is more recent. [Also], current EU sunscreen guidelines recommend an SPF/UVAPF ratio of at least 1/3, while the FDA requires a UVA1/UV ratio of 0.7 for broad-spectrum.”
In terms of personalizing sun protection to skin type, she writes: “Protection against UVB is especially important for fair skin, as there is a high risk of sunburn, DNA damage and melanoma. [In contrast], darker skin may be better protected against UVB but is more prone to UVA-induced hyperpigmentation. Protection against UVA, visible light and infrared A rays may be useful for all skin phototypes, as they penetrate deeply and cause photoaging. In cases of dermatosis, adapting the formulation and texture of the sunscreen to the skin type and dermatosis is also essential.”
Camargo Sanromà further highlights the science behind these variations in sun protection needs. “Scientific evidence shows that each type of skin has a different need for photoprotection depending on its phototype and sensitivity. So, new photoprotectors will be needed that respond to these needs… [For] darker skin, SPF 30-UVAPF 30; intermediate skin, SPF 30-UVAPF 20; and for lighter skin, SPF50+-UVAPF 20.”
Per Camargo Sanromà, the Roka Smart UV PvB 360 ingredient (INCI: Methoxyphenylethenyl t-Butylbenzoate) is an active that increases the UVA protection capacity of cosmetic formulations over time. “The molecule works as a precursor that lays dormant until UVB radiation activates it,” she explains. “Then, it undergoes a phototransformation that converts it into a UVA absorber, adapting to the environmental conditions for protection when it is most needed.”
Conclusions
As if formulating sunscreens wasn’t difficult enough, the market is pushing SPF protection to new levels of sophistication. Innovations like those described above to extend and hybridize sunscreens will be key to rising sun care expectations.
References
1. Villena, K. (2025, Jan 6). Skin health and sun care 2025 playbook. Global Cosmetic Industry. Available at https://www.gcimagazine.com/consumers-markets/news/22926288/euromonitor-skin-health-sun-care-2025-playbook
2. Grabenhofer, R. (2024, Jul 26). 6 Cosmetic trends: Korean sunscreens, Cosmax, Kylie Cosmetics x Crumbl, 'waxy' hair and more. Cosmetics & Toiletries. Available at https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/consumers-market/news/22916104/6-cosmetic-trends-korean-sunscreens-cosmax-kylie-cosmetics-x-crumbl-waxy-hair-and-more
