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Section: Formulas/Products > Skin Care
Color Cosmetics
Read the Label Online: Urban Decay Naked Skin
Urban Decay promises that its Naked Skin foundation allows the consumer to feel like they are not wearing makeup. This column, written by Susan Raffy, reviews the ingredient listing for claims substantiation and functionality.
Methods/Tools
Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception
This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.
Anti-aging/Face
Part I: The In vitro Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH) was found to stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin in cultured human dermal fibroblasts as well as augment the activity of all important actors in the assembly of elastic fibers, including Fibrillin 1, Fibulin 5, Decorin, LOX and Transglutaminase, among others. This is shown here both in monolayer cell cultures and in a 3D skin model.
Anti-aging/Face
Read the Label Online: Bliss Firm, Baby, Firm
The main claims for this serum are lifting and volumizing, which can be supported by the numerous cosmeceutical actives such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids, stem cell extracts, minerals and peptides. This column will review the ingredient listing for claims substantiation and functionality.
Regional
VIDEO: 2 Questions on the FDA's Triclosan Ruling
The FDA's ruling on triclosan raises two questions, which David C. Steinberg describe in this fourth video in our series. However, he concedes that fighting the ruling is like "doubling down on an already-lost bet."
Methods/Tools
Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifiers on Emulsion Perception
This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.
Skin Care
Indena Hops on the Anti-pollution Trend Train
Indena is going beyond giving dirt the brush-off with Vitachelox. This ingredient is an optimized blend of botanical compounds that's designed help protect skin from pollution damage.
Methods/Tools
Validating the Effectiveness of Rubbing on Percutaneous Penetration
The effect of rubbing on percutaneous penetration has long been questioned. Existing data regarding rubbing effects is sparse, and what is available is controversial at best. While some evidence suggests that rubbing increases absorption, others note the opposite. Further understanding of the rubbing effect on percutaneous penetration may offer a more complete picture in relation to the application of drugs, cosmetics and skin care.
Anti-aging/Face
Read the Label Online: Boscia Bright White Mask
The proliferation of “whitening,” “brightening,” “clarifying” and “evening” cosmetic products continues with the launch of Boscia’s Bright White Mask, a peel-off mask that “helps to visibly even skin tone and helps diminish the appearance of hyperpigmentation.” This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims substantiation.
Skin Care
Read the Label Online: Fresh Seaberry Restorative Body Cream
Fresh Seaberry Restorative Body Cream is an ultra-hydrating and nourishing treatment designed to calm and relieve irritation. This column will review the ingredient listing for claims and functionality.
Actives
Don’t Count On Genetics, Sunscreens are the Best Bet
In a podcast with P&G scientists Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. and Rosemarie Osborne, Ph.D.,
Cosmetics & Toiletries
learned about genetic studies in support of the Olay brand, and more. Following is an excerpt.
Regional
Death From Methyl Salicylate Incites Debate on the Ingredient
A 17 year-old track star from Staten Island, N.J., USA, died from overexposure to methyl salicylate, an ingredient commonly formulated in OTC muscle pain cream that is also known as salicylic acid methyl ester, oil of wintergreen, betula oil and methyl-2-hydroxybenzoate.
Literature/Data
ZnO Nanoparticles Penetrate but Only Under These Conditions
Zinc oxide (ZnO) nanoparticles are a major component in sunscreens but their ability to permeate skin has remained undetermined. Recent work in
Applied Biomaterials
identifies the conditions under which they penetrate—notably, not in their nano form as they exist in sunscreens.
Literature/Data
Shiseido Puts the 'Pressure' on Anti-aging Skin Care
Shiseido has discovered that applying pressure to the skin stimulates the proliferation of stem cells stored in reservoirs that could impart anti-aging benefits.
Skin Care
Gattefossé Develops Daring on the Daily, Inspiration 2023 Line
Other products in the line include Cottage Cheese cream and Squid Ink Topping with a creamy, yogurt-like texture that offers moisturizing and energizing benefits for daily application.
Formulas/Products
Read the Label Online—Tom's of Maine Naturally Dry
“The first antiperspirant made entirely from ingredients from nature,” is a pretty strong claim for a product category that is well-established; but without comparing it to every other antiperspirant on the market, one cannot definitively say whether it is the “first” or not.
Consumers/Market
Not So Secret Agents: Skin Benefit Agents on the Rise
According to a report from market research firm Fact.MR, the skin benefit agents market will increase 5.3% during the 2017–2026 forecast period.
Hair Care
On-the-Go Consumers Seek Out Quick-Fix Beauty Products
Many of these products, specifically facial masks, highlight the specific count of seconds or minutes it takes to see results directly in the product name.
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