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Type: Article

Section: Formulas/Products > Skin Care

Gel Network Fundamentals at C&T Summit

Gel networks are at the base of many modern skin care products and hair conditioners, and their formulation is fairly straightforward. During the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit, George Deckner and Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr., will present, in hands-on formulation workshops, the practical aspects of gel network-based o/w emulsions for skin and hair care.

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Binding Water in 3D: Cellulose Networks for Texture and Sensory Benefits

This article explores a natural raw material sustainably produced from cellulose that improves rheological and sensory properties in cosmetic products. Here, it is tested for matte effects in a face cream, for hair conditioning to reduce combing forces, and for viscosity recovery in sunscreen sprays.

Patent Picks— Foam Enhancement, Functionalized Polymers, Modified Sorbitan Siloxanes, Bacterial Cellulose Network and More for Cleansing

Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition features technologies related to cleansing skin and hair.

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Epigenetic Fibroblast Revival

BASF’s latest bioactive botanical, Dermagenist™, revives aged fibroblasts, resulting in improved skin firmness and a strengthened matrix. Dermagenist is an Origanum majorana leaf extract powder that restores balance to the skin cycle by altering the epigenetic patterns of cells to reverse the signs of aging

Skin Penetration of Liposomes

There is a second category of nanoparticles that is specifically designed to penetrate skin: liposomes.

Skin Penetration by Quantum Dots

Quantum dots are nanocrystals that are used for imaging purposes in medical diagnostics (and not in cosmetics). They have a metallic core surrounded by an inorganic shell coating.

Biotechnology and Cosmetics: Dermagenetics

Planet Earth has not always been the comfortable place that the human race has evolved to inhabit. At one time, the planet existed in an atmosphere of constant reduction. Instead of oxidative molecules like oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitric oxide, the environment contained principally hydrogen, methane, ammonia and hydrogen sulfide.

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Study Shows How Eczema is Genetic

A study published in Genome Biology and Evolution found that atopic dermatitis (eczema) is likely to hitchhike a ride with mutated hornerin and make the skin disease genetic.

Exploring the Depths of Percutaneous Penetration

The Perspectives in Percutaneous Penetration (PPP) conference recently was held at the Palais des Congrès de La Grande Motte. Following are some highlights most relevant to the cosmetics and personal care industry.

Penetration And Metabolism Of Isoflavones In Human Skin

This human study shows that the isoflavone aglycone genistein penetrates significantly better into the skin when it is formulated in a liposomal preparation. The corresponding isoflavone glycoside genistin is not hydrolyzed to the biologically active aglycones upon topical application.

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Rubbing Shoulders with Massage for Improved Penetration

Rubbing is a common application method for topical products, though evidence of its efficacy remains scarce. The present article reviews research in support of this application theory. It also identifies what investigation is still needed.

Properties of Emulsions: Structure and Skin Penetration

This work studied the influence of emulsion type and structure on the penetration of vitamins as cosmetic active ingredients. An emulsion of the w/o type and two different o/w emulsions were compared with an oil solution as a standard. A systematic in vitro study of penetration into the stratum corneum and the living skin was performed with the isolated perfused bovide udder skin model. The results substantiate the influence of emulsion type and stucture on the degree of penetration of water-soluble and oil-soluble vitamins into the skin.

'Improved Antioxidant Penetration': Letter to the Editor

A recent Letter to the Editor calls to question some details in the logic presented in an April 2014 Cosmetics & Toiletries article.

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Don’t Count On Genetics, Sunscreens are the Best Bet

In a podcast with P&G scientists Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. and Rosemarie Osborne, Ph.D., Cosmetics & Toiletries learned about genetic studies in support of the Olay brand, and more. Following is an excerpt.

Validating the Effectiveness of Rubbing on Percutaneous Penetration

The effect of rubbing on percutaneous penetration has long been questioned. Existing data regarding rubbing effects is sparse, and what is available is controversial at best. While some evidence suggests that rubbing increases absorption, others note the opposite. Further understanding of the rubbing effect on percutaneous penetration may offer a more complete picture in relation to the application of drugs, cosmetics and skin care.

Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum

The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Without Penetration, No Delivery

This somewhat tongue-in-cheek edition of our "Words from Wiechers" series offers insight to improve the efficacy of actives.

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Epigenetics and Aging: A New Player in Skin Care

The cosmetics and skin care industry is constantly developing new products and technologies that aim to slow down the skin aging process. Epigenetic processes play an important role in skin aging. Several new cosmetic products target epigenetic mechanisms and have shown promising results as novel cosmeceuticals.

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