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Type: Article

Section: Formulas/Products > Hair Care

Defining and Controlling Frizz

There is likely a variety of causes and contributors to the nebulous consumer term “frizz.” This article attempts to craft a universal definition and then progresses to further examine impacting factors. These discussions focus on methods for quantifying hair properties and assessing the positive impact of commercial hair care products.

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Balancing Texture with Electrolyte Resistance for Improved Thickening

Described here are two acrylic rheology modifiers for novel thickening properties in formulations. A pre-neutralized carbomer is shown to impart a lighter, smoother texture than traditional carbomer while increasing process flexibility. In addition, a new associative acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer exhibits thickening in high electrolyte media, acts synergistically with surfactants, and facilitates the dispersion of fillers.

Improving the Sensory Properties of Lye Hair Relaxers

Previous work found soluble silicates in lye relaxers to impart positive effects. Therefore, a compound based on potassium silicate, alkyl polyglycoside and glycerin was developed to improve the effects of lye relaxers on the mechanical and sensorial properties of hair. This article explores various benefits of this compound using variations of two lye relaxer test formulations.

Alternative Hair Cleansing

New approaches to hair cleansing range from dry powders and sprays, to creamy cleansers that skip shampooing altogether. In fact, according to Mintel's NPD Database, an increasing number of consumers favor dry shampoo. Carmen Castillo Bucci, of L'Oral USA, will discuss these new approaches to hair cleansing during the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit.

A Brief Review of Polymer/Surfactant Interaction

In this article, the significance of parameters such as correlation length (blob size), micelle structure, comicellization, polymer adsorption conformation and coacervate structure are introduced with relevance to the conceptual appreciation of polymer-surfactant interactions and its bearing on recent advances in conditioning shampoos.

Dimethiconal Panthenol: Hair Color Protection with Multiple Benefits

Consumers are increasingly becoming wary of unnecessary chemicals in products. In response, Biosil Technologies, Inc. has developed Biosil Basics® Amino DL-30 CE, a paraben- and phenoxyethanol-free silicone, to formulate hair care products without sacrificing function.

Lasting Hair Conditioning via In situ Controlled Flocculation

A new cationic homopolymer-based technology was designed to provide long-lasting conditioning to damaged hair without product buildup. Its mechanism, in situ controlled flocculation, is described here, and its capability to restore hydrophobicity to damaged hair is shown. Techniques are detailed for measuring silicone deposition, conditioning performance, hydrophobicity and buildup on hair.

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Multifunctional Cosmetic Ingredients as Antimicrobials

Today's formulator is busy, and their task of creating innovative formulations is boosted by new multifunctional ingredients. The concept of delivering two highly desired benefits for personal care in one product is one of great appeal to formulators globally.

To produce a stable emulsion, an emulsifying agent can be added to the oil and water that will either act as a barrier to alter the droplet coalescence rate, or create an interfacial film that can produce repulsive electrical forces between approaching droplets.

Zeta Potential and Particle Size to Predict Emulsion Stability

Emulsions are popular vehicles in skin care due to their affinity for the skin; however, they are thermodynamically unstable systems. This study investigates zeta potential and particle size distribution as potential screening tools to predict instabilities in emulsion-based cosmetic products, to supplement regular accelerated stability testing.

Hair Control Shaping New Markets

According to research from Diagonal Reports, hair straightening has stirred up today's beauty marketplace. Further, demand for hair control is growing exponentially. In response, Peter Landa of TRI-K will revisit the "knowns" and consider the "unknowns" of hair structure and control technologies during the 2015 Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit.

The hair scientist is indeed fortunate that his/her test substrate is so readily available in such specific forms, but the variability of this material again must be emphasized.

Hair as a Test Substrate

Hair is a distinctly variable material, and the nature of this substrate can have a major impact on laboratory test results. This article discusses hair as a laboratory substrate to provide guidance on minimizing variability and creating optimal test conditions.

IFSCC 2014 Explores Social, Psychological and Sensorial Aspects of Beauty

As one might expect from an event centered around beauty and staged in Paris, the 28th Congress of the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) was nothing less than fabulous. However, the glamour and fanfare was deeply rooted in science.

Formulating Within Regulatory Constraints

Regulations incite mixed emotions. On the one hand, they constrain innovation; on the other hand, they can force a new and better solution. Updates on regulations and some solutions for them will be covered by Rob Ross-Fichtner, of Focal Point Research, at the June 22 and 23, 2015, Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit.

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Conditioning Damaged Hair Around the Globe

Although there is a demonstrated need for damaged hair products around the world, it can be challenging to formulate for different ethnic groups with their own unique hair characteristics. The need for a conditioning agent across ethnicities led Croda to develop a conditioning agent that is able to improve the appearance, feel and manageability of hair regardless of ethnic origin.

Are Silicones Safe and Sustainable? What are the Alternatives?

Alternative hydrocarbons, esters, ethers and emollients aim to replace D5, and to a lesser extent, low viscosity silicone fluids—and many of them meet the mark. However, a second look at why silicones are being replaced is advised. Formulators may want to evaluate the data themselves for both safety and environmental aspects to make their own judgments.

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Anti-Aging Hair Care through the Legendary Power of the Baobab

Anti-aging is quickly becoming a large and formidable category in hair care. The description for anti-aging of hair can be explained by a product that provides multi-functional benefits including damage recovery, protection, strength, nourishment and conditioning effects. The anti-aging claim can now be found in all hair care segments, including shampoos, conditioners, serums, colorants and styling agents.

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Multifunctional Performance from a New Generation Hair Polymer

Today’s styling formulations are further optimized with polymer combinations. This is especially true for styling gel and wax formulations, with combinations of styling polymers and polymeric thickeners to achieve the right balance of rheology profile, setting performance and humidity resistance without sacrificing sensory properties, e.g. peaking, gel structure and clarity. Luviset One (INCI: Acrylates/Methacrylamide Copolymer) offers hair care formulators the opportunity to reduce the complexity of styling gel and wax formulations with the use of only one polymer.

Straightening Revolutionizes Hair Styling

According to market researcher Diagonal Reports, strong consumer demand for hair management and control is transforming the global hair straightening market beyond recognition.

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