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Skin Care
Sustainable Suds: Renewable Algal Betaine Dehyton® AO 45 Fits Multiple Needs
Dehyton® AO 45, BASF’s Algal Betaine, is a primary cleaning agent with a comparable foam profile to traditional betaine derived from a unique raw material source.
Preservation
Preservative Predicaments in Facial Skin Care
Preserving skin care products has become challenging because of attacks by special interest groups, which often lead to negative consumer perceptions. As these assaults on preservatives—some scientifically sound, some not—continue, the industry must look for new preservation methods to gain acceptance.
Sensory
Ranking Body Creams by Sensory Properties
Ranking descriptive analysis (RDA) is a sensory test from the foods industry. Here, it is applied to evaluate the properties of four body creams, and the results are compared with those of the well-known quantitative descriptive analysis (QDA) profiling. Findings suggest this technique could positively impact sensory testing for product development.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Non-aqueous, Eco-friendly Antimicrobial
Patent Picks are chosen by the editors from publicly available sources. Today's patent, from ISP, relates to a non-aqueous, eco-friendly antimicrobial composition.
Bath/Shower
C&T Formulary: Bath and Body
Supplier-submitted formulas for Bath and Body products including antiperspirants, bar soaps and body wash.
Sensory
Yield Stress Measurements for Personal Care Part II: Methods
The previous article defined yield stress and explained how to calculate the amount needed for a given application. Here, methods for measuring yield stress are compared by determining the values of two materials: a non-thixotropic acrylates copolymer solution, and a thixotropic body wash. The results provide recommendations for methods in terms of relevance, exactness and robustness.
Preservation
Multifunctional Cosmetic Ingredients as Antimicrobials
Today's formulator is busy, and their task of creating innovative formulations is boosted by new multifunctional ingredients. The concept of delivering two highly desired benefits for personal care in one product is one of great appeal to formulators globally.
Moisturizing
Delivering Skin Moisturization from a Surfactant Cleanser
The instrumental and sensorial studies described here assess the ability of a test moisturizing product, at 1% in a surfactant system, to physically improve skin moisturization and structural condition, as well as provide a consumer-perceivable sensorial benefit. Changes in skin protein content, visible skin dryness, trans-epidermal water loss, corneometry and sensorial characteristics were measured and analyzed.
Literature/Data
Patent Picks—Prolonging Fragrance, Epilation Wax, Films, Thickening, Self-tanning and More in Body Care
Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features recent inventions related to fragrance, films, botanicals, thickeners, self-tanning, epilation wax application, cosmetic liquid dispensing and more for body care.
Bath/Shower
Formulating Aftershave
Besides soothing and calming irritated skin, aftershaves are expected to refresh the skin, provide emolliency, reduce blood flow, tone skin, impart scent and antibacterial benefits, and prevent folliculitis, among others. Relevant ingredients for these functions are discussed here in terms of three categories of aftershaves: fluid transparent solutions, thick gels and fluid emulsion lotions.
Methods/Tools
Practical Foam Science
Foam science can be confusing, so the temptation is to formulate by trial and error. However, understanding the science behind key aspects of foam—i.e., elasticity, DLVO Theory stability, Ostwald ripening, draining and antifoams—and applying this will fast-track foam development. These concepts are detailed here.
Rheology/Thickener
A Comprehensive Approach to Replacing DEA in Formulations
Once California added diethanolamine to the list of regulated chemicals in personal care formulations under Proposition 65, chemists immediately sought out surfactants that were free of DEA. Here is presented a roadmap for identifying the right solution to replace DEA-containing surfactants in personal care products.
Rheology/Thickener
A Comprehensive Approach to Replacing DEA in Formulations
Once California added diethanolamine to the list of regulated chemicals in personal care formulations under Proposition 65, chemists immediately sought out surfactants that were free of DEA. Here is presented a roadmap for identifying the right solution to replace DEA-containing surfactants in personal care products.
Cleansing
Naturally Derived Low Dioxane Solutions for Cleansing Products
The demand for personal care products made with natural, renewable materials shows no sign of abating. Lubrizol is responding by launching two new products: a naturally derived thickener, Glucamate™ CCO thickener, a product that builds viscosity without ethoxylation while offering broad ingredient compatibility; and a new high-solids surfactant, Sulfochem™ ES-70DXS surfactant, that pushes 1,4 dioxane levels closer to single digits and is extremely easy to handle. What’s more, the cleansing products they enable still deliver the sensory and safety properties that consumers expect.
Rheology/Thickener
Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH
Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Characterization of Multilamellar Vesicles for Cleansing Applications
In the present article, the authors characterize a multilamellar vesicle (MLV) system used in personal care and verify its structure via X-ray scattering, rheology and fluorescence microscopy. This enabled the study of MLV formation to investigate bulk rheology characteristics. The results are presented here as application-relevant properties.
Cosmetic Ingredients
A Delivery System for Treatment Bar Soaps
Many desired additives are not compatible with soap due to either the chemistry or the manufacturing process. Here, the authors describe an encapsulated delivery system incorporating polymers that survives the extrusion process and adheres to skin.
Cleansing
Naturally Derived Low Dioxane Solutions for Cleansing Products
The demand for personal care products made with natural, renewable materials shows no sign of abating. Lubrizol is responding by launching two new products: a naturally derived thickener, Glucamate™ CCO thickener, a product that builds viscosity without ethoxylation while offering broad ingredient compatibility; and a new high-solids surfactant, Sulfochem™ ES-70DXS surfactant, that pushes 1,4 dioxane levels closer to single digits and is extremely easy to handle. What’s more, the cleansing products they enable still deliver the sensory and safety properties that consumers expect.
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