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Literature/Data
Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings
In this monthly survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from a water-soluble scrubbing agent and black truffle for cell proliferation, to ascorbyl palmitate nanocrystals and an o/w emulsion for eyelash-volumizing and lengthening, among others.
Anti-aging/Face
Beyond Wrinkles: The Ingredients Rewriting Beauty’s Biological Playbook
The industry is moving toward a model where skin care is designed to modulate the skin’s internal intelligence, adaptability and long-term biological trajectory.
Event Coverage
In-Cosmetics Highlights Eco-responsible Cosmetics
In-Cosmetics 2011 was highly focused on the development of sustainable personal care products. This trend was found not only in the ingredients launched or highlighted there, but also in the featured seminars and special zones.
Method/Process
Antiaging in a Different Light: Assessing How Chromophores Color Perception
Aging influences cutaneous parameters that give rise to progressive changes in three skin chromophores, altering the visual homogeneity of skin. To address these changes, the authors developed and examined the effects of a complex based on
Siegesbeckia orientalis
and
Rabdosia rubescens
using a novel skin imaging technique.
Efficacy
Illuminating Skin Radiance: α-Crystallin as a Target to Achieve Glass Skin
A newly developed peptide acts as a bio-highlighter and makeup alternative for a natural, glass skin appearance. Here, it is demonstrated to induce the production of endogenic a-crystallin, a molecular chaperone that plays a crucial role in skin proteostasis.
Actives
How a Bio-optimized Collagen Peptide Masters Timeless Beauty
A hexapeptide was developed based on the human skin type I collagen sequence. Its activities on skin biomarkers, procollagen I and hyaluronic acid release and for dermal matrix protection and facial contouring benefits, were tested as described here.
Actives
PDRN Explained: The Skin (and Hair) Care Ingredient Turning Heads in Beauty
Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) has starred in numerous recent beauty headlines, warranting a deeper dive into why beauty consumers love PDRN and what makes it so great — so we dove. Three industry experts took the plunge with us.
Event Coverage
Water, Asia, Sensory and Sustainability Inspire Technology Launches at Record-breaking in-cosmetics 2013
More than 9,400 visitors and 650 exhibitors flocked to Paris for the April event, featuring the latest ingredients and technologies.
Literature/Data
Stimulating Sirtuins' Antiaging Appeal
Nicotinamide, the amide of niacin or vitamin B3, is used to treat arthritis. It also has demonstrated anti-inflammatory actions that may be of benefit in patients with inflammatory acne vulgaris. Nicotinamide, therefore, would appear to play a positive role in inhibiting inflammation but a negative role in aging. Are there other ways to stimulate sirtuins?
Anti-aging/Face
Part I: The In vitro Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade
The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH) was found to stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin in cultured human dermal fibroblasts as well as augment the activity of all important actors in the assembly of elastic fibers, including Fibrillin 1, Fibulin 5, Decorin, LOX and Transglutaminase, among others. This is shown here both in monolayer cell cultures and in a 3D skin model.
Literature/Data
Glycation and Skin Aging: A Review
The present article, adapted from Draelos and Pugliese*, provides a review of the chemistry involved in the glycation process to assist formulators in developing topical or nutricosmetic solutions for mature skin care.
Event Coverage
And the
C&T Allē Award
Goes To ... Unveiling the 2026 Winners
Actives
Inhibiting Cathepsin G to Protect Against Photoaging and Infra’aging
Ultraviolet and infrared exposure are sources of premature skin aging, characterized by solar elastosis and extracellular matrix degradation.
Polygonum aviculare
extract is a cathepsin G inhibitor, and is shown here to oppose photoaging and infra’aging by improving skin firmness and elasticity, in turn reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
Anti-aging/Face
Skin & Hair Care’s Protein-Based Revolution
Emerging technologies are driving a biology-first wave of innovation; here’s what that means for beauty innovation.
Actives
Innovations in Sustainable Beauty: Exploring Eco-friendly Ingredients and Solutions
Discover the latest in sustainable beauty, including biodegradable ingredients, bio-based alternatives and eco-friendly solutions for skin care, hair care and cosmetics. Explore how brands are leading the way in clean, conscious formulations.
Actives
A Medicinal Plant Blend for Soothing and Anti-inflammatory Effects
The use of steroids to treat atopic dermatitis (AD) often causes side effects; thus, the authors present a blend of plant-derived materials designed as an alternative treatment or an adjuvant therapeutic agent. Through in vitro and in vivo evaluations, the blend is shown to provide effective anti-inflammatory and AD-mitigating effects.
Methods/Tools
How In silico Innovation is Transforming Cosmetic Ingredient Discovery and Development
This article delves into in silico methods including AI and machine learning for cosmetic ingredient discovery and development. It covers virtual screening, QSAR analyses and molecule repurposing, and gives a case study in progress for psoriasis peptides.
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