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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives
Cosmetic Ingredients
Words from Wiechers: Without Penetration, No Delivery
This somewhat tongue-in-cheek edition of our "Words from Wiechers" series offers insight to improve the efficacy of actives.
Methods/Tools
Words from Wiechers on 'Shaken, Not Stirred' Cosmetics R&D
In this installment of our Words from Wiechers series, the late author encourages the industry to put more energy into products; i.e., "shaking, not stirring" them, for more innovative outcomes.
Claims/Labeling
Words from Wiechers: The Term
Cosmeceuticals
is No Longer Sustainable
"We really cannot differentiate between a cosmetic and a drug if we accept the fact that a claim made for the product can determine to which category it belongs," Wiechers criticizes, in this "Words from Wiechers."
Literature/Data
Words from Wiechers: Too Often, Too Hot and Too Long. . .
In this edition of Words from Wiechers, product developers are reminded that if consumers deplete natural moisturizing factor from their skin, e.g., via long, hot showers, they damage their barrier and increase the penetration of anything applied to skin; including mild cleansers.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: Perception of Reality or Reality of Perception?
"Suppliers promise quite a lot to their customers," Wiechers tells us. "And [manufacturers] love to insist on more...This attitude promotes a shift from reality to perception." Read on to learn this month's lesson from Wiechers.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Dispelling the 'Law of Wiechers' and Maximizing Actives Delivery
Jonathan Hadgraft, PhD, named "The Law of Wiechers in Cosmetics" after his friend and colleague. This law argues that all actives should be formulated at 3% for maximum delivery, which Wiechers recently discussed in honor of Hadgrafts's 60th birthday.
Anti-aging/Face
Lab Lessons—Wise Words From the Bench with Anthony Vargas
Vargas entered the cosmetics industry like many others—by chance, when he answered a newspaper advertisement for a laboratory technician position at Avon in 1979. Although he did not know anything about cosmetics at the time, he took the utmost care in researching his ingredients, which led to the launch of a number of successful products and honed his keen eye for technologies.
Actives
Compass: The Shape of Words to Come
This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine focuses on treatments incorporating such actives in preventive skin care, antiaging treatments, and anticellulite and spa treatments.
Method/Process
Much Ado About Nothing: Cosmetics Testing with a Placebo
In this column, the author investigates the source of the placebo effect. In addition, he asks the question: Must cosmetics testing always incorporate tests against a placebo?
Rheology/Thickener
Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH
Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.
Rheology/Thickener
Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH
Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.
Actives
Neurofense from Silab
This ingredient restores comfort to hyper-reactive skin.
Cleansing
Phytosqualan from Sophim
April
Solastemis from Gattefossé
Solastemis shields the skin from damage induced by UVA.
Skin Care
Synastol TC from Sytheon
This naturally derived ingredient provides multifaceted relief for sensitive skin.
Anti-aging/Face
Beauty from the Ice
IceAwake™ is based on an extract of a bacteria which was isolated from the soil below a Swiss glacier. IceAwake™ rejuvenates skin that appears aged due to a hectic lifestyle.
Natural/Sustainable
Wisegrade from Lipotrue Inc.
Actives
Circalys from Greentech
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