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Type: Article

Section: Cosmetic Ingredients > Actives

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Without Penetration, No Delivery

This somewhat tongue-in-cheek edition of our "Words from Wiechers" series offers insight to improve the efficacy of actives.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers on 'Shaken, Not Stirred' Cosmetics R&D

In this installment of our Words from Wiechers series, the late author encourages the industry to put more energy into products; i.e., "shaking, not stirring" them, for more innovative outcomes.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: The Term Cosmeceuticals is No Longer Sustainable

"We really cannot differentiate between a cosmetic and a drug if we accept the fact that a claim made for the product can determine to which category it belongs," Wiechers criticizes, in this "Words from Wiechers."

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Too Often, Too Hot and Too Long. . .

In this edition of Words from Wiechers, product developers are reminded that if consumers deplete natural moisturizing factor from their skin, e.g., via long, hot showers, they damage their barrier and increase the penetration of anything applied to skin; including mild cleansers.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Perception of Reality or Reality of Perception?

"Suppliers promise quite a lot to their customers," Wiechers tells us. "And [manufacturers] love to insist on more...This attitude promotes a shift from reality to perception." Read on to learn this month's lesson from Wiechers.

Dispelling the 'Law of Wiechers' and Maximizing Actives Delivery

Jonathan Hadgraft, PhD, named "The Law of Wiechers in Cosmetics" after his friend and colleague. This law argues that all actives should be formulated at 3% for maximum delivery, which Wiechers recently discussed in honor of Hadgrafts's 60th birthday.

Lab Lessons—Wise Words From the Bench with Anthony Vargas

Vargas entered the cosmetics industry like many others—by chance, when he answered a newspaper advertisement for a laboratory technician position at Avon in 1979. Although he did not know anything about cosmetics at the time, he took the utmost care in researching his ingredients, which led to the launch of a number of successful products and honed his keen eye for technologies.

Compass: The Shape of Words to Come

This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine focuses on treatments incorporating such actives in preventive skin care, antiaging treatments, and anticellulite and spa treatments.

Much Ado About Nothing: Cosmetics Testing with a Placebo

In this column, the author investigates the source of the placebo effect. In addition, he asks the question: Must cosmetics testing always incorporate tests against a placebo?

Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH

Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.

Successfully Formulating at the Skin’s Natural Surface pH

Formulating high-performance skin care systems at low pH levels (4.0 to 5.5) can be beneficial for consumers and formulators in many ways, according to Florence Pecquerie, applications scientist and formulator for Lubrizol. Here, she reviews the current knowledge on skin surface pH, discusses the importance of pH on the efficacy of organic acid preservatives in formulation and introduces a new crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer.

Mibelle_CT2003_lead

Beauty from the Ice

IceAwake™ is based on an extract of a bacteria which was isolated from the soil below a Swiss glacier. IceAwake™ rejuvenates skin that appears aged due to a hectic lifestyle.

EssentialPlantOils_850

Plant Oil Insight From the Skin's Perspective*

There is significant variability in plant oil compositions, and some oils can cause problems for impaired skin barriers. However, the right oils have been shown to benefit the right skin types, some of which are reviewed here.

Busy Signals Explain Itch from Dry Skin

This review of literature suggests that crosstalk between the stratum corneum and nerve fibers in the epidermis is the process by which itch is transmitted to the central nervous system. A rationale is presented for using moisturizers to reduce itch.

Bruise Amelioration and Skin Benefits from Glycerin and Triglyceride

Ameliorating the appearance of bruises can be accomplished by combining glycerin and triglyceride in a skin care formulation that functions both as a humectant and occlusive agent, as described here.

Sensient Ct2112 Lead

Unique Rosemary Extract that Protects Skin from Urban Stress

Protection from oxidative and airborne pollution is vital to good skin health; learn about Sensient’s newest in-vivo validated botanical active, Natpure® Xtra Vitality.

sensient_ct2102_lead

Unique Rosemary Extract that Protects Skin from Urban Stress

Protection from oxidative and airborne pollution is vital to good skin health; learn about Sensient’s newest in-vivo validated botanical active, Natpure® Xtra Vitality.

Building a Better Barrier from the Inside Out

Ursolic acid encapsulated in liposomes has demonstrated an ability to stimulate ceramide synthesis in keratinocytes, resulting in a barrier that is stronger and recovers more quickly from disruption.

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