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117 Results
Section: Testing
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Literature/Data
Hair Damage and Repair Literature: Sweet Potato Sochu and Red Clover
Hair thinning and loss; nourishing and bonding treatments; and scalp, curl and color care are among today's top concerns and trends in hair care. As such, we offer the following brief literature review with a look at recent research related to hair repair and damage.
Efficacy
Melatonin: An Ancient Protector for Modern Skin Care
Melatonin evolved in response to ROS exposure throughout the ages as an innate defense for organisms to protect themselves. Due to its anti-inflammatory and protective properties, melatonin is being used more often in skin care, and several assays can demonstrate its efficacy.
Color Cosmetics
Eye Opener: Combined Formulation Strategy Ensures Mascara Success
This article reviews the key components of mascara formulations, including waxes, film-formers, fillers—and importantly, packaging. Test formulations are created here using a combined strategy for ingredient selection and assembly, and assessed for various properties.
Method/Process
DNA Metabarcoding Tracks Traceability of Naturals: Wild Teasel Case Study
This study authenticates
D. fullonum
from raw material to final ingredient. It compares
D. fullonum
and
D. sylvestris
in a three-step study by: barcoding the raw material, metabarcoding the two extracts and bioinformatics processing.
Organic/COSMOS
Confounding Labels: One ‘Natural’ = 100+ ‘Chemicals’
As most formulators are aware, creating a product with three or more botanicals in it means a final formula containing more than 200 chemicals. How is this better for skin? It's not, according to this commentary.
Efficacy
The Dirty Truth About Pollution-induced Skin Aging: The AhR Pathway Tells All
Studies have shown that exposure to airborne, traffic-related particulate matter (PM) is associated with increased signs of extrinsic skin aging.1-3 Using model particles as surrogates, these researchers developed an in vitro model to evaluate premature aging induced via the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) pathway. They found a new AhR antagonist could inhibit the up-regulation of genes indicative for premature aging.
Skin Care
Anti-pollution Skin Care: It's Real
'No kidding it's real,' you're probably thinking. Like naturals, though, at first it felt more like a passing fad. Now we know better, thanks to new research, some of which was presented in London earlier this year.
Testing
Mitigating 'Maskne:' Boldo to Balance Sebum, Bacteria and Redness in Acneic Skin
Peumus boldus
(boldo) extract was tested for effects on sebum production,
S. aureus
growth and
C. acnes
lipase activity in vitro, as well as on skin redness in vivo. This work aimed to develop a natural ingredient to control sebum, inhibit microbes and their activity, and reduce redness in acne-αfflicted skin.
Testing
Fighting AGEs Formation: Upcycled Artichoke Inhibits Glycation, Increases Skin Firmness
Upcycling organic waste into cosmetics has been of interest for the growing sustainability trend—and artichoke, in particular, demonstrates anti-aging activities. Described herein is the development of an upcycled artichoke byproduct, which was tested for effects on skin glycation and elasticity.
Methods/Tools
Total Exposure: The Future of Sun Care is Full Light Protection
History has revealed what has become well-known today: the human skin requires sun protection. But are UV filters enough? Here, the authors discuss the negative effects caused by other wavelengths. In addition, they propose a full light defense strategy.
Method/Process
Molecular Modeling of Skin care Products: Application for the Design of Pepidomimetics
Molecular modeling has been used in the pharmaceutical industry for years to predict how a new molecule may work based on research conducted with molecules of a similar structure. The cosmetics industry has also begun to use this technology to predict the behavior of new molecules on skin and in skin care applications.
Actives
Ascorbyl Lactoside: A New Vitamin C Derivative for Effective Skin Whitening
A new vitamin C derivative, ascorbyl lactoside (AsL), was synthesized and characterized for its stability and safety, and evaluated for anti-tyrosinase and melanin reduction effects. The material showed excellent whitening effects and exhibited better stability than ascorbic acid. It also possessed the lowest cytotoxicity, in comparison with ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and arbutin.
Event Coverage
6 New Trends in Cosmetic Technology
The topics described during in this conference session were but a sampling of innovation scattered throughout the in-cosmetics Global show floor. But their overall tone seemed to accurately reflect a larger future direction of the industry.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Testing Tactics in Skin: A View of Visible Light Protection
Blue light, in particular, may be responsible for most of the adverse skin reactions caused by visible wavelengths. This column reviews methods to screen for materials that protect against blue light but also allow its benefits to shine through.
Natural/Sustainable
Green Formulations: Not All Components Are Equal
In the consumer’s mind, a natural or green cosmetic is automatically safe; however, the safety, quality and efficacy of botanical ingredients used in formulations need to be carefully assessed. Stability is also an important issue. Current research is directing analyses of final formulations to evaluate not only their cosmetic raw materials, but also their active materials.
Method/Process
Noninvasive Techniques for Anti-cellulite Product Efficacy Evaluation
Although cellulite is not considered a disease, it is a significant cosmetic problem for many post-adolescent women. Recent studies using new diagnostic techniques such as ultrasound imaging can define the cellulite-reducing efficacy of cosmetics. However, there is still a need to standardize and objectify the testing procedures and to find parameters to measure anti-cellulite efficacy.
Event Coverage
Emotion, Visualization and Innovation at IFSCC in Rio
The IFSCC conference covered an array of subjects—from the psychology of rotating brushes, and discussion of neuron-adipocyte crosstalk to limit emotional stress-mediated fat accumulation; to hair straightening and conditioning, various visualization tools, and novel formulation approaches.
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