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117 Results

Section: Testing

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Sea Anemone Delivery of Collagen and γ-PGA for Anti-aging Benefits

The effective delivery of youth-preserving collagen and moisture remains a cosmetic Holy Grail. In response, this study describes a natural microinjection system based on the stinging cells of the Cnidaria sea anemone to effectively puncture the stratum corneum layer and deliver its content—both marine collagen and γ-PGA—into skin, offering a promising new class of solutions to age-old challenges.

Smart Lipid-carotene System for Targeted Free Radical-Scavenging

In this study, the authors evaluated the effectiveness of a new smart lipid system in stabilizing and delivering carotenes into the epidermis. The system is shown effective in providing free-radical (FR) scavenging at different stages of skin exposure: immediately neutralizing FR present in the skin, blocking FR formation during UV exposure, and accelerating skin recovery after UV exposure.

Sourcing and Using Maca and Suma Roots

In recent years, interest in sourcing plant roots as active ingredients for cosmetic use has grown tremendously. Roots such as maca and suma are rich in secondary metabolites and, as described here, can have specific actions on skin to increase its vitality and response to environmental stresses.

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Sticking it to Hair Damage: Delivery Duo Protects and Repairs Inside and Out

To adequately protect hair from damage, an efficient solution should offer not only high coverage externally, but also penetrate hair to impart reparative effects internally. The present study explores the ability of a dual technology to provide these benefits, as demonstrated via analytical techniques.

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When Acne Attacks, Hexylresorcinol and Ethyl Linoleate Fight Back (part I)

Although P. acnes is a commensal bacterium of normal skin, together with the sebaceous gland, it clearly is implicated in acne. Here, P. acnes and other possible causes are reviewed, and a hexylresorcinol and ethyl linoleate anti-acne treatment to target them is described.

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Brassica Breakthrough: Herbal Anti-acne Alternative Proves Clinically Effective

While there are numerous topical and systemic treatments for acne, antibiotic resistance and toxic interactions are a challenge. This article explores the clinical efficacy of a Brassica oleracea blend as an alternative topical acne treatment.

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Speeding Up R&D: Spotting Clues to Anticipate Stability Problems

Besides directing cosmetic beginners to read the abundant literature in the field of stability, the aim of this article is to give some clues for starting stability matters “with the right foot”—indeed, to anticipate stability problems helps to speed up the R&D process.

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Infusing New Life into an Old Reliable Skin Treatment: Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde is suitable for many skin care applications, and when combined with other substances becomes even more versatile. One of its newest topical delivery systems provides multifunctional opportunities.

Antiaging in a Different Light: Assessing How Chromophores Color Perception

Aging influences cutaneous parameters that give rise to progressive changes in three skin chromophores, altering the visual homogeneity of skin. To address these changes, the authors developed and examined the effects of a complex based on Siegesbeckia orientalis and Rabdosia rubescens using a novel skin imaging technique.

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Illuminating Skin Radiance: α-Crystallin as a Target to Achieve Glass Skin

A newly developed peptide acts as a bio-highlighter and makeup alternative for a natural, glass skin appearance. Here, it is demonstrated to induce the production of endogenic a-crystallin, a molecular chaperone that plays a crucial role in skin proteostasis.

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Oak, Green Tea and Orange Derivatives to Disrupt JAK/STAT, NF-κB Irritation Pathways

Activation of NF-κB and JAK/STAT pathways in keratinocytes leads to the release of immunomodulating factors that sustain an amplification loop between the keratinocyte and infiltrating immune cell, leading to skin irritation. To disrupt this loop, two complexes, one based on oak and green tea extracts, and another on orange flavonoids, were developed and are shown here to immediately soothe skin.

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When Acne Attacks, Hexylresorcinol and Ethyl Linoleate Fight Back: Experimental (part II)

Although P. acnes is a commensal bacterium of normal skin, together with the sebaceous gland, it clearly is implicated in acne. Here, P. acnes and other possible causes are reviewed, and a hexylresorcinol and ethyl linoleate anti-acne treatment to target them is described.

Whether the industry likes it or not, ingredients or finished formulas require claims substantiation, and neither suppliers nor customers can pass this responsibility on to one another.

Want the Truth: Claims Development is More Than Just Evidence.*

Both marketing and R&D have major responsibilities in the claims development process. But that’s not all—regulations, risk, vulnerabilities, communication, study design, costs and more also are at play. These and other influences in the claims development process are discussed in the present article.

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Testing Tactics: Approaches to Measure Scalp Comfort and Care

This article describes examples of test methods beyond standard skin hydration, sebum and TEWL measurements being used help create scalp care products that address conditions such as inflammation, redness, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and more.

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Testing Tactics: How Sensory Testing Bridges the Gap Between Technology and Consumer Experience

This article delves into the role of sensory testing in the development of cosmetics for skin and hair. Its applications, methodologies and unique place in the innovation toolbox are highlighted, along with expert insights and journal article examples.

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Shrinking Pores at Their Core: Gallic Acid Derivate Controls ROS and Sebum Factors

This study proposes a unique molecule derived from gallic acid to prevent enlarged and clogged facial pores. The ingredient is partly activated by the microbiome and protects against oxidative stress and excess sebum—two key factors at the core of enlarged pores.

IFSCC 2014 Explores Social, Psychological and Sensorial Aspects of Beauty

As one might expect from an event centered around beauty and staged in Paris, the 28th Congress of the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) was nothing less than fabulous. However, the glamour and fanfare was deeply rooted in science.

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Testing Tactics in Skin: Evaluating Radiance and Texture

Hydrated, even-toned skin with a natural glow, all indicators of health, has gained popularity in the last decade. This article explores the meaning of skin radiance, its relationship to texture and various ways to measure this desired attribute.

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