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Section: Research
Hair Care
Improving the Sensory Properties of Lye Hair Relaxers
Previous work found soluble silicates in lye relaxers to impart positive effects. Therefore, a compound based on potassium silicate, alkyl polyglycoside and glycerin was developed to improve the effects of lye relaxers on the mechanical and sensorial properties of hair. This article explores various benefits of this compound using variations of two lye relaxer test formulations.
Tech Transfer
Cosmogizmoceuticals: The Physics and Chemistry of Looking Better
This article presents skin optics and strategies to design cosmetics that more closely match normal human skin. Topics covered include the spectral reflectance of hemoglobin chromophores, spatial variations and color texture, and optical scattering and translucence. In addition, interference coatings are considered, as are examples of the interplay between home-use devices and agents that affect aging skin.
Consumers/Market
3 Secrets of the New Premium Beauty Consumer
Consumers are increasingly focused on experience over ownership and status, and purchases that are more results-driven and individualized, all of which is a boon for premium beauty. Although premium buyers’ purchasing decisions are partly status-driven, their most desired product features highlight that super high quality and value for the money are equally important.
Literature/Data
Pigmentation, Swelling and Wrinkling in the Eye Area
Product development to address concerns of pigmentation, swelling, and wrinkling in the eye area requires a basic understanding of the area's unique anatomy and skin physiology.
Literature/Data
The Genetic Relation Between Skin Tanning and Burning
Scientists recently investigated whether or not genetics can be linked to the propensity of skin to burn or tan, and how this connection may also explain people at risk to skin cancer.
Sun Care
[Mintel Data] The Top Trends Reinventing Sun Care
David Tyrell, Ph.D., global skincare analyst, Beauty & Personal Care, Mintel, touches on consumer behaviors and trends expected to impact sun care products in the coming years.
Magazine
Functional and Corrective Makeup to Support Cancer Therapy
This article details the biological impact of cancer treatment therapy on skin and corresponding formula considerations. Safety and allergen risks are emphasized, as is the critical focus on quality of life.
Research
AI Trends and Influences in the Cosmetics Industry
As the year continues it is becoming more apparent just how prominent AI will be in the very near future. Unlike the declining popularity of the metaverse, AI is here to stay and it has carved out a space in the cosmetics industry.
Color Cosmetics
The 4 Hottest Trends in Color Cosmetics
Charlotte Libby, Mintel’s global color cosmetics analyst, shared the macro-trends within the category that are helping to boost sales.
Hair Care
Editor's Note: The Fiber of Our Being
It’s in the very fiber of our being to bring you data and ideas that are critical and relevant to your product development efforts, beyond space constraints.
Efficacy
'Mirror, Mirror, in the Internet of Things. . .
...use great caution with the advice you bring.' Just what we need. Another critic scrutinizing appearance. And before coffee no less. Yet, this unbiased, digitized evaluation offers interesting potential; and if we don't like it, we can always turn it off.
Literature/Data
Nanoceria Leaves Free Radicals Singing the Blues
In new work published by the Royal Society of Chemistry, researchers found that a blue-tinted nano cerium oxide (nanoceria) acted as a potent free radical scavenger. But why blue? The answer isn't clear.
Methods/Tools
Silverson Solves Conversion Problems in the Lab
Having problems with conversions during product development in the lab? There's now an app for that. Silverson Machines Inc. has launched Silverson Conversion Tools, an app available in Apple’s App Store that contains a versatile set of conversion and calculation tools suitable for use in almost any process environment.
Literature/Data
Tech Edge: RNA Interference and Therapeutic Applications
Regular columnist Mindy Goldstein, PhD, welcomes this “Tech Edge” contribution from colleague Narendra Vaish, PhD, of Nastech Pharmaceutical Company.
Consumers/Market
Sun Care Bringing More to the Table
Given consumers' desire for value and multiple benefits, sun care marketers are diversifying their product offerings.
Literature/Data
Plant Oil Insight From the Skin's Perspective*
There is significant variability in plant oil compositions, and some oils can cause problems for impaired skin barriers. However, the right oils have been shown to benefit the right skin types, some of which are reviewed here.
Literature/Data
Formulating Forum: The Challenge of Trending Sunscreens
This article considers options to provide effective UV protection that checks all the boxes, including modern sunscreens restricted by regulations, ingredient mandates and texture preferences.
Literature/Data
Toss the Bleach for Atopic Dermatitis Treatment
Bleach baths are commonly recommended for atopic dermatitis treatment, but a recent review in
Annals of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology
found that water baths may be a better option.
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