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Color Cosmetics
Leveling Up: Passion Fruit Drives Color Cosmetics Into New Dimensions
Passion fruit seed extract is shown to exhibit antioxidant, skin whitening and sun protection capabilities in color cosmetics. This novel, natural and sustainable source for cosmetic actives demonstrates a near totality of claims for formulators and marketers.
Literature/Data
For the Love of Microbes: Pigments with Super Powers
They're at it again. Microbes are spreading—but not to our blacklist, as once before. They've flagellated their way into our hearts as their powers are used for good, not evil—in this case, as producers of pigments having bonus antioxidant and antimicrobial benefits, as a new study describes.
Actives
microHA—Super Active, Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (HA) with Outstanding Biological Efficacy
microHATM: A novel bioactive HA with super low molecular weight from natural fermentation process, has excellent transdermal absorption, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and repairing characteristics.
Actives
Raspberry Stem Cell Extract to Protect Skin from Inflammation and Oxidative Stress
In the present article, the authors evaluate a wild red raspberry (
Rubus idaeus
) extract for its beneficial compounds and potential applications in skin care. From leaf explants, raspberry stem cells were obtained to develop an extract rich in antioxidants, anthocyanins and phenolics. This extract exhibited anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities.
Natural/Sustainable
Aplantex Adds L'Oréal Canada's Bérubé to the Board, Highlights Green Biotech for Plant-based Molecules
Stéphane Bérubé, president of L'Oréal Canada's consumer products division, recently joined green biotech firm Aplantex's advisory board. The company produces plant-based molecules for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and ant-aging benefits.
Actives
Moringa Leaf Phytochemicals for Skin Benefits
This paper describes the development of a stable moringa plant concentrate comprising the extraction and identification of stable actives, via plant metabolites, and the correlation of activity through a variety of in vitro models. The resulting concentrate demonstrated direct and indirect antioxidant benefits and inhibitory action against inflammation and UV-induced MMP-1.
Actives
A Balancing Act: Stabilizing Vitamin C for Skin Benefits
Topically, ascorbic acid, or vitamin C, has important physiological effects in skin based on its antioxidant properties. Its stability, however, poses significant challenges. This column reviews the material’s beneficial properties and strategies to stabilize its reactive nature.
Actives
Bio-Botanica offers Licorice Root Extract in Glycerin
Licorice root contains glycyrrhizin and glabridin. Glycyrrhizin is anti-inflammatory; used topically, it may help reduce redness or irritation. It is also an antioxidant. Glabridin may cause skin lightening and reduces dark spots by inhibiting tyrosinase.
Actives
Soy Grows in Skin Care Sector
Soy is steadily building its profile across the skin care category. Soy is an antioxidant that is rich in amino acids and peptides, which provides skin protection from UV rays. It can also reduce skin discoloration and show hair growth.
Actives
Innomost's Betuinno. Betulin is an Upcycled Titanium Dioxide Alternative for Beauty
The vegan, "largely anti-allergic" technology also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties for skin care. In applications, Betuinno. Betulin can reportedly help the skin to heal and regenerate, while delivering moisturizing effects.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Cofactors vs. Coenzymes
Enzymes for DNA repair or Coenzyme Q10 for antioxidant and antiaging benefits have become typical ingredients in today's skin care. Here, industry expert O'Lenick illustrates the difference between cofactors and coenzymes.
Natural/Sustainable
Sensient Acquires White Biotech Expert Biolie to Expand Active Color Offerings
Sensient will apply Biolie's solvent-free enzymatic extraction to create novel sustainable ingredients. The deal follows two recent Biolie launches at Cosmet'Agora: Paradisyl, an antioxidant and SPF booster, and Garnet Red, a skin conditioning agent.
Consumers/Market
Industry Insight: A Turmeric Take on Lip Balm
In this "Industry Insight," Hemali Gunt, Ph.D., head of clinical scientific affairs for Burt’s Bees, discussed turmeric's anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects and how it was integrated into a healing lip balm, which was shown to improve the product’s benefits. Following is an excerpt adapted from our discussion.
Actives
Characterizing the Anti-aging Effects of
Hesperomeles heterophylla
Hook Leaf Extract
Hesperomeles heterophylla
Hook leaf extract was evaluated as described here for its application in anti-aging skin care. This traditional extract exhibited antioxidant and protective properties on the extracellular matrix due to high levels of polyphenols and flavonoids. Further, a formulation containing 0.35% extract was tested in vivo and showed promising effects on wrinkles and skin elasticity.
Actives
Outshining the Sun Care Competition: 10 Innovation Strategies
“Good source of vitamins” and “antioxidant” are among the fastest-growing sun care category claims, per Euromonitor, reflecting the sun-care-and-more approach to many launches.
Actives
Cocoa's Sweet Defense: Revolutionary Photoprotection Beyond UV
Photodamage prevention requires protection beyond UV. A responsibly sourced peptide-rich cocoa extract was thus developed to provide antioxidant protection against UV and blue light and improve skin tone evenness in all ethnicities, as shown here.
Sun Care
Dolichos
Cell Culture Extract for Protection Against UV Damage
Dolichos biflorus
cell culture extract is evaluated here for its effects on skin cells. Results indicate the extract provides strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and protective properties for skin, and the ability to repair UV-induced damage. Further, this work reinforces that cell culture systems are efficient biofactories to produce natural and effective compounds.
Sun Care
Dolichos
Cell Culture Extract for Protection Against UV Damage
Dolichos biflorus
cell culture extract is evaluated here for its effects on skin cells. Results indicate the extract provides strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and protective properties for skin, and the ability to repair UV-induced damage. Further, this work reinforces that cell culture systems are efficient biofactories to produce natural and effective compounds.
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