May 2023

This issue of C&T responds to several trends in the "pro-youth" space. Ezure probes biology for answers to sagging, identifying shrinking sweat glands as a novel target. Prajammuang, et al., explore detachable microneedles to deliver retinol and other actives into skin for youthful effects without accumulation or irritation. Biotech and fermentation-derived ingredients with skin brightening, antioxidant, hydrating, probiotic, … etc., benefits are described by Johnson, while Deola and Lionetti take a skin health approach, explaining how to formulate for compromised skin. This month’s Expert Opinions is also rich with ideas for the anti-aging category; e.g., stress management, precision targeting, the holobiont, senescence, the medicalization of products and more. As a bonus this month we also address scalp care, which continues to draw consumer interest.

Cosmetics & Toiletries May 2023
May 2023
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A 3D visualization technology was recently developed to observe internal structures in intact skin utilizing AI-based identification. This methodology revealed sweat glands shrink with aging, which causes dermal cavitation.
Sweat Glands as a Novel Target for Anti-aging Skin Care
Apr 27th, 2023
This article offers an overview of ingredients from biotechnology and how they support more sustainable products. Ingredients discussed include kojic acid, fermented lemon peel extract, squalane, probiotics and peptides.
In The Mix: 5 Biotech-derived Cosmetic Ingredients, Applied
Apr 26th, 2023
The present article reviews the structure and function of both healthy and compromised skin barriers. It then describes ingredients and formulas to support barrier repair.
Formulating Forum: Care and Repair for Compromised Skin
Apr 26th, 2023
This article details cosmetic regulatory changes in the Asia-Pacific region that occurred in the beginning of 2023. They indicate that regulatory reform and continuous refinements to perfect the framework are still the main tasks in 2023.
Asia-Pacific Regulatory Update: Sample Testing, NCIs, Quality and Safety, PIFs, ASEAN Updates and More
Apr 26th, 2023
This edition of C&T Magazine explores trends in the pro-youth space, biotechnology and scalp care. With a constantly innovating industry, we look at the latest in anti-aging, precision-targeting as well as other topics.
Editor’s Note: Pro-youth and Care Solutions
Apr 26th, 2023
This edition of industry insight delves into skin care and health with Gill Westgate, Ph.D., an industry expert in hair growth and the hair cycle, co-founder and chair of the Cosmetics Cluster UK, and founder of her namesake consultancy.
Industry Insight: Skin Barrier, Microbiome and Exposome Top Scalp Opportunities
Apr 26th, 2023
This edition of expert opinions discusses the changes in the anti-aging space and how research has indicated that many people do not mind looking their own age, among other topics.
Expert Opinions: Advances in Anti-aging Prevention, Mood Boost, Medicalization, Precision, Holobiont, Senescence and More
Apr 26th, 2023
This article explores detachable microneedles applied via patches as a means to deliver bioactive ingredients. Tests were performed in porcine skin, a silicone model and human volunteers for potential irritation and clinical anti-aging efficacy.
Detachable Microneedles Pinpoint Delivery for Anti-aging Effects
Apr 26th, 2023
Oily scalp imbalance commonly promotes microbiome dysbiosis and impairs skin barrier function, resulting in inflammation and dandruff.
Multi-targeted Delivery System Restores Scalp Microbiome to Reduce Dandruff
Apr 26th, 2023