Beauty ingredients drive everything from product claims to marketing strategies. To keep beauty innovators up on the latest technologies, Global Cosmetic Industry and Cosmetics & Toiletries prepare monthly ingredient trend bulletins breaking down the latest emerging technologies, clinicals and more, offering a bird’s-eye view of where beauty categories are going next. This month’s edition encompasses everything from marine-derived stretch mark solutions to unique materials for “glass skin” effects. Read on for the full bulletin.
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Beauty ingredients drive everything from product claims to marketing strategies. To keep beauty innovators up on the latest technologies, Global Cosmetic Industry and Cosmetics & Toiletries prepare monthly ingredient trend bulletins breaking down the latest emerging technologies, clinicals and more, offering a bird’s-eye view of where beauty categories are going next. This month’s edition encompasses everything from marine-derived stretch mark solutions to unique materials for “glass skin” effects. Read on for the full bulletin.
Anti-aging & Longevity Solutions
Boosting Cell Vitality Against Wrinkles
The Eternal Nature (TEN Co., Ltd.), a manufacturer and distributor of raw materials and cosmetics ingredients, is set to release Wrinklezero (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract (and) Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract (and) Cynara Scolymus (Artichoke) Leaf Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Propanediol (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate), an ingredient that removes damaged mitochondria by accelerating the autophagy mechanism, which then reproduces healthy mitochondria.
The technology is therefore said to restore mitochondrial functions and reinforces cell vitality to prevent wrinkles. Additionally, it can reportedly inhibit cellular aging caused by oxidative stress.
Wrinklezero is said to inhibit the activity of β-galactosidase and thereby inhibit senescent cells significantly. It boosts lifting and firming effects by decreasing MMP synthesis and increasing collagen synthesis, the company reports, and it also effectively inhibits MMP1 and MMP3 synthesis, preventing the breakdown of collagen and elastin, and increasing type I collagen synthesis.
A Synthetic Peptide for Slow Aging
BASF has launched a new synthetic peptide for skin care that aligns with the slow aging trend. Inspired by the natural regenerative process of the skin, and based on a naturally occurring human biopeptide, Pepsensyal (INCI: Mannitol (and) Acetyl sh-Tetrapeptide-1 (and) Lauroyl sh-Tetrapeptide-1) has been clinically proven to reduce and delay the first visible signs of aging, the company reports. The ingredient is additionally free of preservatives and 99% of natural origin.
In a double-blind, randomized, split-face clinical trial of 32 women (44 to 64 years old), Pepsensyal at 0.2% was tested against a placebo product.
According to BASF, after just 14 days of product application:
- Subjects' crow's feet appeared smoother, with an 11% decrease in average roughness and a 14% decrease in maximum relief amplitude; and
- Skin isotropy increased by 15%, indicating a skin resurfacing effect.
Furthermore, Pepsensyal was proven to replenish the skin from the inside. After 28 days of product application, the skin had re-densified, with a 21% increase in the echogenic surface area of the dermis. Extensive in vitro testing additionally confirmed the ingredient's ability to support skin regeneration, helping to slow the visible signs of skin aging.
The new ingredient was reportedly developed in response to the slow-aging trend, which reflects a shift in consumer attitudes about aging. Rather than fighting the natural aging process, consumers are increasingly focused on healthy aging through a holistic, preventative approach to skin care.
A New ‘Glass Skin’ Botanical
Lightmony is described as a powerful combination of pomegranate and lemon botanical extracts, inspired by the Korean trend of "glass skin," that imparts a healthy and balanced glow.image by slawek_zelasko at Adobe Stock
More specifically, per the company, the active reduces melanin synthesis and equilibrates the eumelanin/pheomelanin ratio, decreasing the amount of pheomelanin, which acts as a photosensitizing and pro-oxidant pigment. In addition, it minimizes DNA damaged by oxidative stress, helping to prevent premature skin aging.
Claimed benefits include:
- Reducing the appearance of dark spots and promoting an even tone
- Smoothing the skin by providing gentle and instant exfoliation
- Improving skin texture, reducing roughness and wrinkles
- Ensuring visible and fast effective results
InnerLift Calendula Targets Inner Cellular Mechanisms to Restore Skin Vitality
Naolys has tapped into the natural power of calendula to develop an anti-aging solution to revitalize and regenerate skin "deep down." According to the company, InnerLift Calendula (INCI: Calendula Officinalis Callus Extract) stimulates inner skin structures to proactively fortify the skin's foundation at both dermal and epidermal levels.
Calendula’s botanical DNA is rich in beneficial compounds such as flavonoids, carotenoids and phenolic acids, providing the plant cells with anti-inflammatory, soothing and regenerative properties. Applied in skin care, these entities are said to boost skin’s resilience and ensure a well-nurtured cellular framework. Thus, the ingredient is positioned as an "investment for ageless vitality and a radiant complexion."
InnerLift Calendula: Multifunctional Mechanisms of Action
InnerLift Calendula reportedly supports holistic regeneration effects by working in synergy with the body’s natural mechanisms to restore the skin’s health and vitality.AdobeStock Maryna Osadcha
- A holistic approach: intervening in epidermal differentiation, regulating inflammation and restoring skin lipids. This establishes harmony between external and internal factors for fully optimized skin, per the company.
- Intelligent cellular stimulation: specifically targeting oxidation-sensitive proteins and senescent cells, stimulating the production of essential components such as elastin, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), collagen and ceramides.
- Enhanced protection and barrier function: actively protecting against internal and external threats, minimizing water loss, promoting water retention and reinforcing the skin’s barrier function, creating an active defense.
- A preserved extracellular matrix: caring for the extracellular matrix, fostering deep cell regeneration, contributing to skin resilience, elasticity and firmness to preserve the skin’s structural integrity.
Clinical Efficacy of InnerLift Calendula
Clinical studies of the active were carried out for 28 days in 20 women ages 40 to 60 years old. Assessments were made by the Quantirides system, to assess skin micro and macro topography, and corneometry, to determine hydration. Subjects applied an emulsion including 0.5% InnerLift Calendula (20% cells) twice daily. Results revealed an increase in skin moisture after 2 hr and a decrease in wrinkles after 28 days of application, versus the control.
Furthermore, the product imparted:
- A soothing effect, as demonstrated by a study of inflammation mediators IL-6, IL-1 alpha, PGE2
- Anti-aging, firming and reconstructive benefits, as shown by the synthesis of collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans
- Regenerating efficacy, assessed by the study of cell proliferation with KI-67 reconstructive effect
- Corneocyte cohesion, shown by the study of loricrin, involucrin and ceramides
- Anti-ageing effects, through studies of cell senescence, β-galactosidase assay
Technical Specs, Marketing Claims of InnerLift Calendula
According to the company, InnerLift Calendula supports skin care claims, including the following.
- Combatting oxidized proteins/antioxidant effects/cellular preservation
- Skin cohesion/maintaining optimal skin barrier structure
- Deep cell regeneration
- Remodeling the extracellular matrix/the skin's ability to adapt to aging
- Anti-inflammation, calming redness, irritation and discomfort
- Lowering/reducing the number of senescent cells in skin
- The product is available in two forms: liquids — soluble cells (20%) in glycerin or sunflower oil (80%); and powder — dispersible cells (100%), in concentrations starting at 0.5%. It is reportedly suitable for all types of formulations.
Tackling Under-eye Bags & Dark Circles
VividEye takes on these signs of premature aging by strengthening the vascular network via a reduction in blood vessel leakage and by boosting lymphatic vessel formation to enhance fluid drainage from the under-eye area.Prostock-studio at Adobe Stock
Under-eye puffiness and dark circles are a perennial shopper concern. Mibelle Biochemistry's VividEye, which is based on organic apple mint leavesa, brightens dark under-eye circles and cuts down on puffiness by addressing the underlying causes of the conditions.
VividEye (INCI: Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua/Water) takes on these signs of premature aging by strengthening the vascular network via a reduction in blood vessel leakage and by boosting lymphatic vessel formation to enhance fluid drainage from the under-eye area.
This method of action addresses the blood accumulation created by increased vascular permeability, as well as melanin deposition, which rises with age. Both contribute to dark circles; this discoloration becomes more visible as the skin thins with age.
Improved lymphatic drainage, meanwhile, reduces under-eye bags by counteracting weakening of the delicate tissue in the eye area, per Mibelle.
The technology also takes on skin thinning by boosting the skin barrier.
A reduction in eye bag volume and dark eye circle appearance was confirmed via clinical studies, per the company.
Key claims reportedly supported by VividEye include:
- Increased eye contour luminance
- Reduced eye bag volume
- Decreased blood vessel leakiness
- Enhanced lymphatic vessel formation
- Inhibited melanin formation
Biotech-powered Bisabolol for Sensitive Skin
Presperse's new BioSyn Bisabolol is derived from 100% biobased carbon via a sustainable fermentation process and reportedly comprises the highest purity bisabolol currently available as well as high levels of the biologically active isomer (-)-α-bisabolol.
The ingredient reportedly reduces redness, itching and irritation, making the technology appropriate for sensitive skin, and offers antioxidant benefits to protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature aging.
The BioSyn Bisabolol also boosts skin brightness and reduces melanin content to diminish the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tone.
The ingredient is therefore appropriate at levels of 0.1-1.0% for skin, body, scalp, sun, baby, intimate care and pet care products.
Bisabolol is typically found in botanicals such as chamomile. However, Presperse's biotech process reportedly makes the production of bisabol more efficient and sustainable.
“BioSyn Bisabolol is the future of sensitive skin care," says Daphne Benderly, Ph.D., director of research and development at Presperse. "Its sustainable production and proven efficacy offer brands the opportunity to meet the growing consumer demand for conscious beauty products without compromising on performance."
Next-level Skin Care: from Brightening to New Marine Actives
Damask Rose Waste Water for Skin-brightening
In a two-month trial, 100% of subjects purportedly indicated their skin was brighter.Robertet
The company's Grasse, France-based team quantified the technology's antioxidant power on biological tissue using PAOT (Pouvoir AntiOxydant Total).
The results found that one 300 mg capsule of Damasty can reportedly increase the skin’s natural antioxidant defences in women after only one month of daily consumption.
The research involved more than 160 women across four clinical trials, all of which tested the antioxidant power of Damasty on facial skin.
After two months, 100% of subjects purportedly indicated their skin was brighter.
In that time, skin evenness increased by 45%. In addition, the participants' melanin index diminished "significantly more" among those taking Damasty versus a placebo group. That effect actually intensified through the third month of consumption, per Robertet.
Damasty is derived from water co-extracted with essential oils and hydrolates from damask rose. This water has traditionally been considered waste. It is now collected in stills to produce the skin-brightening ingredient.
A Marine Ferment for Stretch Marks
LipoTrue’s Deepstrine (INCI: Not Provided) is a marine ferment from a microorganism found in the deep cold waters of the North Atlantic Ocean. Per LipoTrue, it is designed to nurture stretch marks and initiate deep repair, restoring the skin’s resilience and natural beauty. The company likens this repair process to the Japanese art of Kintsugi, which uses gold to repair broken pottery and enhance its beauty.
The ingredient reportedly:
- Targets the structural integrity of the dermis
- Targets dermo-epidermal cohesion
- Smooths and blurs stretch marks
- Improves skin hydration
- Soothes inflammation
- Strengthens and restores the skin's elasticity, returning its resilience and healthy appearance
A Skin Tone-boosting Peptide
Evolved By Nature has debuted a new bioactive peptide: Activated Silk 8A-α. According to the company, the ingredient supports natural late stage cell differentiation and is clinically proven to turn the skin "on" to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and improve the appearance of skin brightness.
Activated Silk 8A-α is said to provide the benefits of exfoliation from the inside out, making "unreliable vitamins and chemical peels a thing of the past." It is reportedly safe for sensitive skin and stable in formulations, including in sunscreen routines where many other skin brighteners are not.
Activated Silk 8A-α (pending INCI: Soluble Fibroin) assists in the natural turnover process for continuous cell renewal. This helps to maintain a smooth, resilient skin surface. In addition, it minimizes the buildup of dead cells and promotes an even skin tone.
These effects, in turn, support the skin's barrier function, protect against environmental stressors and contribute to overall skin vitality and radiance. The result is a visibly brighter complexion with reduced appearance of hyperpigmentation, redness and blemishes, according to the company.
A clinical study of 18 subjects using 0.5% Activated Silk 8A-α for 28-days showed that it:
- reduced the appearance of hyperpigmentation,
- increased the appearance of skin brightness and radiance,
- reduced the appearance of skin blemishes,
- soothed and calmed the appearance of skin redness and was safe for sensitive skin,
- gentle enough for daily use and
- safe for use in formulas beyond night creams.
Evolved By Nature notes that Activated Silk 8A-α can be seamlessly incorporated into sunscreen routines, distinguishing it from conventional hyperpigmentation treatments that are highly photosensitive. In addition, the ingredient is sustainable, supporting eight of the 17 United Nations Sustainable Development Goals and contributing to a circular economy. For example, it is biodegradable and crafted from renewable and upcycled materials. In addition, it is certified cruelty-free.
A Smoothing, Radiance-boosting Film Former
Derived from chestnut, Silab's latest natural active, Liftilience, is a sixth generation polyvalent tensor.Silab
As Silab explains, Liftilience (INCI: Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Seed Extract (and) Water (Aqua)) is optimized for adhesion to skin using the company's unique functionalized helical biopolymer (FHB) technology. Through controlled hydrolysis and addition of ionic charges, this innovation enables specifically selected native biopolymers to be converted into functionalized helical biopolymers.
According to Silab, the ingredient acts within the first minutes of application to the face, significantly smoothing skin and making the complexion more luminous and fresher, thus favoring a healthy glow that lasts throughout the day. In studies, these benefits were perceived by volunteers themselves, who reported their skin was smoother, more attractive and more radiant at the end of the day. A sensation of velvet-like softness was also perceived on the body up to four hours after application.
In addition, when included in foundations or primer formulas, Liftilience acts as a makeup perfector and setter. According to Silab, it significantly increases the holding power of foundation and eyeshadow for up to six hours after application, thereby limiting the need for an additional application.
Silab recommends the patented active in all tensor care products at levels of 0.16% to 0.64%. Additional benefits include:
- Available in a preservative-free powder, making it easy to formulate
- Complies with biodiversity regulations
- Has a natural origin content of 100% (ISO 16128)
- Complies with international cosmetic regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.)
Beyond its beauty and skin care benefits, Liftilience is derived from chestnuts obtained sustainably through a local partnership with producers certified for organic agriculture. Silab thus guarantees rigorous traceability back to the plot of land and is committed to virtuous agriculture that complies with good farming practices and protects ecosystems.
Exosomes for Reducing Skin Inflammation
Active Concepts’ AC ExoCalm, the latest innovation in the brand's line of natural BioAuthentic Exosomes, is designed to inhibit inflammation and promote overall skin health.
The company claims that AC ExoCalm (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (and) Phospholipids) can effectively reduce pro-inflammatory cytokines to provide soothing relief to irritated skin.
AC ExoCalm has been created from upcycled Italian licorice root extract. When licorice root goes through its extraction process, it leaves behind a solid residue by-product known as pomace. This pomace comprises glycyrrhetinic acid, a known antioxidant, lenitive and antimicrobial material.
BioAuthentic Exosomes, all natural vesicles that are functionally identical to exosomes, are extracted from natural sources, and target specific benefits. By encapsulating actives that are held together with protein boats for increased stabilization, these natural delivery systems reportedly ensure increased activity of personal care benefits.
A Greener Natural Moisturizer
Croda has reinvented its long-lasting (24 hr) moisturizer, Moist 24, to make it greener. The new Moist 24 PlusNat brandishes RSPO and IECIC compliance credentials. It is also available in several formats, including for powders, and provides 100% natural origin content and 58.7% natural content options.
Beyond its being a greener ingredient, Moist 24 PlusNat provides features including:
Efficacy in different skin phototypes, including VI;
- Efficacy tested in leave-on and rinse-off applications;
- An encapsulated option for powders or anhydrous cosmetic products;
- Four versions using different preservatives and natural grades; and
- Sustainability, efficacy, diversity and a holistic approach to skin care.
Croda notes that the Moist 24 ingredients target moisturization because this is the underlying and universal effect for a wide array of other product claims; for example, skin glow, plumping, soothing, smoothing, etc.
Finnish Microbial Extract Alleviates Atopic Dermatitis
Uute Scientific, a Finnish biotech startup, recently published a study showing natural microbial exposure could help to alleviate atopic dermatitis. The study explored the effects of the company's Re-Connecting Nature (RCN) product, which is described as the world’s first inactive microbial extract that emulates "the rich biodiversity of the Finnish forest." The company's innovation was shortlisted for the Rising Star Award at In-cosmetics Global in 2022.
Uute Scientific’s RCN was developed at the University of Helsinki and Tampere University. It is made from sustainably sourced natural materials by combining commercially available plant-based composts and plant matter. According to the company, the inactive microbial extract derived from these sources replicates the Finnish forest to give users rich microbial exposure, especially for those who are not in contact with nature on a daily basis.
"The modern way of living has caused people to live in an overly hygienic world with little or no exposure to nature," the company reports. "The COVID-19 pandemic increased the usage of hand sanitizers and the purification of surfaces, killing bad viruses but also good microbes that are necessary for human health. Studies already show that the overly hygienic Western lifestyle, urbanization and biodiversity loss are linked to an increase in chronic, inflammatory diseases like atopic dermatitis."
The study, conducted by Uute Scientific as part of dissertations at the University of Helsinki and Tampere University, enrolled 142 participants afflicted with atopic dermatitis. Half of participants used a placebo lotion and the other half used lotion containing the RCN extract as part of their normal daily life for approximately seven months.
Skin inflammation and atopic dermatitis are common skin concerns that are driving innovation within the skin care and ingredient manufacturing industry.AdobeStock by Ольга Шефер
The results showed that participants in the microbial extract-treated group used fewer atopy medications than in the placebo group. The RCN lotion also strengthened the skin's protective barrier and prevented irritation in atopic skin.
"Skin barrier defect is the main problem in atopy, so this barrier-strengthening effect is good news for atopic people," the company wrote. According to the authors, the study proved that exposure to a nature-based microbial extract could significantly help atopic dermatitis, stimulating and supporting the human immune system.
"This is the first time in history that the health benefits of nature-based microbial diversity for diseases has been tested scientifically on a specific disease," the company wrote. "For the over 200 million people globally suffering from atopic skin, the study’s results show that there’s a supportive treatment to the current medication that has multiple unwanted side effects."
Kari Sinivuori, CEO and co-founder of Uute Scientific, noted, "This is truly a historic study that shows scientific evidence of the power of our nature’s microbes to help with severe disease. We start with atopic skin, but other immune-mediated diseases, such as different allergies, asthma, Parkinson's disease or Alzheimer's, are also likely to benefit from this."
Sinivuori continued, “When we announced the opportunity to participate in the atopic dermatitis study, we had an abundance of people signing up ... It's evident that many people would like to find an alternative to the current medication for their skin condition, and more nature-based solutions are what people want from their everyday products.
"Besides, the current medication doesn’t cure atopic skin: it just prevents some symptoms, such as itchiness, but in order for it to continue working, the user must increase their intake constantly. This causes serious deterioration of skin health and a vicious cycle of being dependent on medication from which the patient can’t break away.
“Our study has proven our hypothesis, and we are more than excited to reintroduce nature to modern people’s lives through a variety of products."
Sinivuori added that the RCN extract can be introduced as an ingredient to an almost endless list of products, such as:
- Color cosmetics
- Lotions
- Textiles
- Children’s toys or foods
- Drugs
Per the company, RCN is already used in approximately 100 beauty and health products in 10 different countries by 35 beauty brands such as NOBE, Luonkos, Moi Forest, Sees and the animal care brand Doggy Potion.
Novel Makeup Formulations
Gattefossé is showcasing its skin care and sensory expertise through makeup. According to the company, the new Color Pulse kit includes 13 color cosmetic formulas in various formats and applications and demonstrates how to formulate makeup that is sensorial, high-performing and natural at the same time.
With the launch of Emulium Illustro in 2019, a w/o emulsifier highly compatible with pigments and UV filters, Gattefossé reportedly recruited experts in the field to study the compatibilities and possibilities of its ingredients in color cosmetics. The result? Novel makeup formulas along with client presentations to showcase the latest trends, share technical tips, provide keys to success and inspire ideas.
The new collection is said to meet everyone’s needs, ranging from face and eyes, to lips; from light to high coverage; from shine to matte; and from light to dark shades. All the formulas are designed to be highly natural; are offered in different formats (liquid, cream, stick and powder); and represent various formulation types (w/o, o/w and anhydrous).
The formulas include:
- Serum Foundation
- Energizing Primer
- Dewy Tinted Cream SPF20
- High Coverage Foundation
- Ulti-matte Concealer
- Intense Liquid Blush
- Stick-to-powder Bronzer
- Hydraboost Tinted Lip Balm
- Shiny Liquid Lipstick
- Iconic Satin Lipstick
- Definilash Mascara
- Multi-purpose Eyeshadow
- Pressed Gemstone illuminating powder
“Makeup formulation, although it’s a full-blown expertise, is incredibly interesting thanks to the creativity it requires," explains Lysiane Teyssier, product marketing leader for texture ingredients and personal care applications at Gattefossé. "After the rise of naturality in skin care, brands started to embrace this trend in color cosmetics, too, despite the challenge it represents. The lab team has developed a strong expertise in makeup over the years and is ready to support customers in their transition to natural makeup."
Patricia Sengel, cosmetic formulation laboratory manager for the company, added, “My team and I are very proud of this Color Pulse kit that we have spent 3 years to develop. We are sure that it will be appreciated by every makeup lover as it contains 'must-have formulas' to start a makeup line, but also more creative and challenging ones. We had a great pleasure formulating every formula while pushing Gattefossé’s ingredients to perform at their best."
Future-proofed Antimicrobials
Thomas Swan, a UK-based independent chemical manufacturer, is premiering its Casamed BKC and BKC PF (palm free) benzalkonium chloride ingredients, which are positioned to provide "quiet confidence" and a "futureproof" supply.
The quaternary ammonium-based compounds are recognized for versatile antimicrobial properties, playing a crucial role as both active ingredients and preservatives across a diverse range of applications, per the company. More specifically, as antiseptics and cationic surfactants, they act by disrupting microbial cell membranes, leading to increased permeability and causing the breakdown and destruction of cells.
The palm oil-free grade is highlighted for supporting social responsibility and enabling the creation of more sustainable, "futureproof" formulations.
Additional benefits of Casamed BKC (INCI: Benzalkonium Chloride) and BKC PF include:
- "Extensive efficacy, mildness and integrity," according to Thomas Swan;
- Produced under cGMP conditions to meet active pharmaceutical ingredient standards;
- Efficacy against a broad spectrum of microorganisms across a wide pH range;
- Do not impart unpleasant colors or odors within the final formulation; and
- Can be supplied pre-formulated in different formats, specifically for liquids, wipes, sprays and foams, for convenience and ease of use.
Novel Sun Defense Technologies
Eclipsogen CAP UV Protection Series
Clariant’s Eclipsogen CAP series (INCIs: Not Provided) is reportedly the first range of encapsulated UV filter blends produced via Clariant’s Nanocon technology. Per the company, even at low concentrations in formulas, Eclipsogen CAP helps to achieve high SPF values in sun care products.
In addition, it is:
- Cold processable
- Reportedly easy to formulate
- Readily compatible with sunscreen ingredients
- Enables light skin sensory benefits with no white cast
A Nutricosmetic Sun Protection Supplement
Ingestible sun protection is on the horizon, as demonstrated by Tosla Nutricosmetics' Lumina365 ingestible. The new product is backed by clinical evidence (soon to be published) showing the product visibly improves skin's response to sun exposure.
After eight weeks of administration, the product reduced skin redness by 46.2% 24 hr after UVB exposure, in turn increasing the minimal erythema dose by 23.8%. According to the company, Lumina365 therefore can provide an additional layer of whole-body sun protection when used with topical sunscreens.
According to the company, the ingestible is formulated with precision and care using high-quality ingredients sourced within the EU that meet stringent standards for stability, efficacy and safety.
The ingredients include:
- Essential vitamins
- Calaguala leaf extract
- Xylitol
- Blood orange extract
- Tosla blend
These natural ingredients and targeted vitamins are reportedly proven to bolster skin’s UV defenses by neutralizing free radicals and reducing melanin-induced redness. Furthermore, Tosla's C&T Allē Award-winning Velious flavor-masking technology is incorporated to create an enjoyable daily routine. Users squeeze the sugar-free, Sicilian red-orange flavored product in a 25 ml daily shot, "transforming sun protection into a delight," per the company.
Tosla's Chief Innovation Officer Uroš Gotar explained, "We saw an opportunity in the sun care market for multifunctional products that not only protect, but enhance skin’s appearance. Lumina365 represents this new wave of 'beautifying' sun protection, combining functional benefits with aesthetic appeal."
"Complementing topical SPF, this vegan supplement offers a 360-degree approach to sun protection," the company's website reports, noting that a Mintel report found 40% of UK female consumers are interested in supplements that can protect against UV damage. "Following this trend, Lumina365 was born," the Tosla reports.
Natural Alternatives to Ingredient Sourcing
Low-carbon Big Kelp Hydration Bioactive Scales Up
In an effort to accelerate the scale-up of low carbon materials derived from U.S.-farmed kelp, such as its Big Kelp Hydration bioactive, California-based biotechnology company Macro Oceans will acquire Everything Seaweed’s processing and biomaterial technologies. Macro Oceans has additionally raised a seed extension of $2.5 million, with Refactor Capital leading the round and participation from McKinley Alaska, Knollwood and Schox, to scale their biorefinery capacity.
According to Macro Oceans, these moves will support efforts to meet the demand for Big Kelp Hydration—a bioactive cosmetic ingredient derived from fully traceable Alaskan kelp, reportedly with clinically proven skin hydration capabilities.
The ingredient is said to:
- Provide an 80% immediate increase in skin hydration, compared with the placebo
- Impart a 26% immediate skin barrier improvement, compared with the placebo
- Enhance skin luminosity
- Create zero waste and provide traceability
- Support sustainable production, using climate resilient agriculture
"Derived from pristine ocean kelp, our restorative bioactive forms a moisture-binding layer that leaves even the most sensitive or irritated skin smooth, supple and ultra-replenished," the company states, on its website.
As part of the business deal, Everything Seaweed’s founders, Colin Hepburn and Jessica Chalmers, will join Macro Oceans' efforts.
Hepburn has more than 30 years of experience in bioprocessing seaweed at scale in Europe, U.S. and Asia. He will join Macro Oceans as CTO alongside CEO Matthew Perkins and Chief Business officer James Dillard to help scale the existing bioactive beauty business to meet customer demand and move into additional industries such as food and advanced materials. Chalmers will join Macro Oceans as vice president of business development and marketing for the company.
“Macro Oceans is now in a position to scale to meet accelerating demand for Big Kelp Hydration and create breakthrough new biomaterials to replace petrochemicals,” said Perkins. “Together we have a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be the market leader in bringing sustainable kelp-based biomaterials products to consumers around the world,” said Hepburn.
Upcycled Bio-based Surfactant or Hair Care and Skin Care
Belgian startup AmphiStar has developed AmphiCare, a biobased surfactant composed "entirely from [upcycled] organic waste and side streams," per the company.
The company converts the agri-food processing waste using a "clean biological" process, AmphiStar claims.
The company's platform leverages Starmerella bombicola yeast "originally isolated from bumblebee honey," per AmphiStar, to produce glycolipid biosurfactants.
The AmphiCare surfactant is reportedly safe, mild and biodegradable and can be applied in shampoos, makeup removers and other skin care products, per AmphiStar. More biobased surfactants from the company will be launched in the future.
"AmphiCare and AmphiClean represent a significant breakthrough in the shift towards fully sustainable surfactants," says Sophie Roelants, co-founder and COO of AmphiStar. "By utilizing non-virgin feedstocks, we are not only reducing reliance on fossil and virgin bio-based feedstocks such as palm oil but also providing high-performing, scalable alternatives that meet the demands of today's personal care and home care industries. Our successful collaboration with [home care brand] Ecover, which launched a consumer product featuring our waste-based biosurfactants last year, showcases the potential of these innovative solutions and reinforces our commitment to revolutionizing the surfactant market."
"We are taking strides towards a new era in surfactant innovation," says Pierre-Franck Valentin, CEO of AmphiStar. "Our commitment to developing novel biosurfactants from waste feedstocks positions us to address the evolving needs of personal care and home care industries. With our advanced biotechnology platform, we are excited to explore new functionalities and bespoke solutions that will redefine performance standards while promoting sustainability in every application."
Food Waste Transformed into Beauty Ingredients
Clean Food Group, a U.K.-based biotech firm, is partnering with THG Labs to transform food waste into valuable cosmetic ingredients via fermentation to help improve the manufacturing of eco-friendly beauty products.Clean Food Group
This approach will reportedly reduce the environmental impact of traditional ingredient sourcing and provide the cosmetics industry with more bio-equivalent alternatives to commonly used, more agriculturally intensive ingredients.
Clean Food Group and THG Labs claim the technology platform uses scalable non-GMO yeast strains and fermentation technology and utilizes bread waste as its food source, to deliver sustainable alternatives to traditional oil and fat ingredients.
Professor Chris Chuck, Ph.D., technical lead, Clean Food Group says, “We are delighted to be collaborating with THG Labs, as a leading innovator and full-service manufacturer in the cosmetics industry. With the help of THG Labs, we are excited to bring to market a range of science-led cosmetics and personal care products that put sustainability at their core.”
Kristal Goodman, head of product innovation, THG Labs, says, "Building on THG Labs passion for biotech and commitment to a more sustainable future, we are thrilled to be collaborating with Clean Food Group on a new era of innovation in sustainability. We’re constantly challenging ourselves to improve the environmental impact of our products, not only within the manufacturing facility but also in the supply chain of our raw materials.”
Goodman adds, “The work carried out by Professor Chris Chuck and his team has inspired a journey to explore the full potential of Clean Food Group’s revolutionary technology, with the Innovation team at THG LABS championing this project and helping to drive progress with more sustainable solutions for the cosmetics industry.”
BASF and Acies Bio Use Carbon Capture to Develop Sustainable Alternatives to Popular Personal Care Ingredients
Acies Bio developed the “OneCarbonBio”, a synthetic biology platform designed to convert renewable methanol, derived from captured CO2 emissions, into a variety of chemical raw materials.AdobeStock by hansenn
Acies Bio developed the “OneCarbonBio”, a synthetic biology platform designed to convert renewable methanol, derived from captured CO2 emissions, into a variety of chemical raw materials, an approach created to reduce the industry’s reliance on traditional, often unsustainable, sourcing of these ingredients.
Under the terms of the partnership, BASF’s Care Chemicals division and Acies Bio will use the specialized microbes and expand the fermentation process to produce fatty acids and derivatives serving to manufacture various chemical compounds.
This collaboration aligns with BASF's commitment to sustainable innovation and reinforces its position as a leader in the chemical industry. The partnership is expected to contribute to a more sustainable future for the beauty and personal care industry.
Matthias Maase, Ph.D., global director sustainability, care chemicals, BASF, says, “Biotechnology complements our chemistry to create a more sustainable future. We are very pleased to have found the right partner in Acies Bio to further develop this innovation at an early stage. With a collaborative and interdisciplinary approach, our research scope of the partnership covers the entire chain from production strain development to large scale manufacturing. This will be of benefit to our customers in personal care, home care, and I&I and industrial formulators worldwide.”
New Functionals & Sensory Boosters
New AI-generated Scent Molecules
Osmo, a digital olfaction company has announced the launch of three scent molecules using its proprietary artificial intelligence technology.
Christophe Laudamiel, master perfumer says, “Our AI technology enables us to screen billions of molecules at a rate that would be impossible for humans. This not only speeds up the discovery process but also allows us to identify captives with desirable performance and ‘special effects,’ regulatory compliance, and consumer safety.”
The three new scent molecules are Glossine, a floral scent similar to jasmine; Fractaline, a versatile scent with either a floral/violet or citrus/ginger scent depending on its surrounding composition; and Quasarine, an intense, petal-y scent with a jasmine aroma on the top notes.
These three scents are available for purchase in the United States and European Union markets.
The SpecBio SL Series, which includes SpecBio SL-Active/Lactone Sophorolipids and SpecBio SL-Cleansing/Acid Sophorolipids, comprises bio-surfactants produced through fermentation using microbial secondary metabolites.AdobeStock by Marevgenna
A Minimalist-friendly Emulsifier
Clariant’s Hostacerin CCT (INCI: Not Provided) is said to tap into the emerging minimalist trend. Described as an easy-to-use, cold processable emulsifier, it has a wide range of applications. For example, it enables stable, low-viscosity skin care and wet wipes. Also, according to the company, using just 10% of Hostacerin CCT in formulas can boost moisturization in formulas.
A Dual-emulsion Stabilizer/Sensory Enhancer
Lubrizol has developed a novel polymeric emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer for versatility and ease of use across a wide range of applications.Lubrizol
Per the company, the chemistry of Novemer CS provides good compatibility with organic and mineral UV filters and makeup pigments, and imparts a refreshing watery sensory experience with smooth spreading.
Lubrizol has developed a novel polymeric emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer for versatility and ease of use across a wide range of applications. Novemer CS polymer (INCI: Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer) is designed to deliver exceptional performance in clear low- to high-viscosity gels and emulsions.
Per the company, the chemistry of Novemer CS provides good compatibility with organic and mineral UV filters and makeup pigments, and imparts a refreshing watery sensory experience with smooth spreading.
A Natural Surfactant-free, 'Feel Good' Emulsifier
![“This next-generation of 2-in-1 product[s] is a balance of formulation needs, as well as skin health and feel.”](https://img.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/files/base/allured/all/image/2024/12/Pickmulse_photo_shot.67194221b97fb.67606483b8f00.png?auto=format%2Ccompress&dpr=2&fit=max&q=70&w=400)
“This next-generation of 2-in-1 product[s] is a balance of formulation needs, as well as skin health and feel.”Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant
Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of sensitive skin issues and the importance of maintaining the skin microbiota, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant reports. Responding to this, Pickmulse (INCI: Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate) was developed as a surfactant-free emulsifier to better preserve skin balance, compared with traditional emulsifiers.
In addition, due to the small size of the quinoa starch particles, the product allows for the easy formulation of Pickering emulsions (i.e., particle-stabilized emulsions) with outstanding sensory skin feel.
In fact, the company tested the ingredient's tactile experience through functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) and electroencephalogram (EEG) measurements. The results showed:
The material stimulated well-being and reward areas in the brain, aligning with the emerging neurocosmetic trend; and
These perceived benefits were additionally confirmed through panelist questionnaires.
According to Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant, Pickmulse does not negatively impact the stratum corneum, assuring high skin tolerance. When emulsified with 20% oil, the ingredient can also be used to create varied textures, from sprays to supple creams, under cold conditions.
The quinoa starch additionally has unique swelling properties to encapsulate lipophilic molecules under hot-processed conditions. As an encapsulation system, Pickmulse is reportedly able to increase the stability of sensitive ingredients. Thus, the ingredient can offer a user-friendly solution for in-house encapsulation, exhibiting a high loading capacity (up to 25%) and efficacy to protect sensitive lipophilic ingredients.
Pickmulse is derived from quinoa responsibly sourced from fields in Bolivia. The company collaborates with the Pro Inpa Foundation to foster a more resilient local economy. As a responsibly-sourced ingredient, Pickmulse therefore addresses the growing consumer demand for natural and environmentally friendly cosmetic components.
“Pickmulse offers a multifaceted and innovative approach to cosmetics that we’ve designed to significantly accelerate new formula development and improve consumer satisfaction,” said Isabelle Lacasse, head of global marketing, product line management and formulation for Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant. “This next-generation of 2-in-1 product[s] is a balance of formulation needs, as well as skin health and feel.”
A Silicone for Strong Powder Slip
Guangzhou Tinci Materials, a China-based manufacturer and global supplier of high-performance ingredients for the cosmetics and toiletries industry, recently launched TCE-3063 (INCI: Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer).
The silicone ingredient is reportedly designed for use in lip and facial products. It is said to be compatible with various lipophilic components, providing the skin with a dry, silky feel and offers a strong powder slip sensation to help fill fine lines. The Chinese manufacturer will also showcase Napure C-FA (INCI: Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate), a mild surfactant that claims to be non-irritating and features high quality foaming performance with fine, dense foam.
Low-carbon-footprint Surfactants
Spec-Chem Industry Inc., a manufacturer of specialty chemicals for personal care and cosmetics, now offers SpecBio SL-Active/Cleansing solution (INCI: Glycolipids (and) Water (Aqua)), which launched in September of this year (2024).
The SpecBio SL Series, which includes SpecBio SL-Active/Lactone Sophorolipids and SpecBio SL-Cleansing/Acid Sophorolipids, comprises bio-surfactants produced through fermentation using microbial secondary metabolites. The safe, eco-friendly, readily biodegradable and sustainable ingredients reportedly have a low carbon footprint.
The SpecBio SL Series reportedly offers excellent surface activity and serves as a non-sulfate, EO-free, green alternative to synthetic surfactants. These multifunctional ingredients provide various benefits, including mildness, protecting and repairing the skin barrier, controlling sebum and delivering antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. Additionally, it enhances cleaning capabilities, moisturizes, improves combing performance, reduces frizz and assists with dandruff removal.
A Natural Oil Thickener
Berg + Schmidt Asia Pte Ltd.’s BergaCare FG Gel is a natural oil thickener designed for use in transparent and viscous oil gels, gel-creams and solid jelly textures.AdobeStock Africa Studio
Per the company, the ingredient can be processed without heating (i.e., is cold processable), allowing for the easy formation of transparent formulations. It is designed as a versatile and natural ingredient, suitable for both leave-on and rinse-off products across skin, hair and sun care, and color cosmetics. Its thixotropic behavior is said to facilitate ease of use, as it exhibits a reversible phenomenon.
Unique Sensorial Skin Feel
Oleon’s Radiastar 1436 (INCI: Isocetyl Isoarachidol) is a vegetable-based, multibranched Guerbet alcohol with a unique sensorial skin feel. The ingredient remains liquid at room temperature, which is notable for a molecule with a C36 carbon chain length, per the company.
In addition to its distinct skin feel, Radiastar 1436 is said to offer good oxidation stability and excellent pigment-dispersion properties, making it suitable for a wide range of color cosmetic and personal care formulations.
FOOTNOTES
aNotably, apple mint leaves are also behind the company's skin brightening technology, MintyBright Nu. MintyBright Nu is a skin brightening ingredient comprising an extract of dried apple mint leaves. The flavonoid-rich source boosts the ingredient's ability to diminish the synthesis of melanin to even out skin tone and increase brightness. The technology is reportedly ideal for beauty supplements.
