A collaboration between leading hair care brand Aveda and color chemistry specialists Keracol Ltd. has uncovered a new method for understanding why hair color fades. Published in the peer-reviewed journal Heliyon, this research introduces an innovative way to measure how dye molecules leave the hair, providing a deeper understanding of color longevity.
Historic Dye Analysis, Modern Color Insights
Per the authors, previous analysis methods could only measure broad visual changes and could not explain what happens at a molecular level. This approach changes that.
Researchers adapted a technique originally employed to analyze dyes in historical museum textiles. The method uses a specialized solvent mix of water and pyridine to extract dye molecules from hair in a variety of colors, textures and conditions.
High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) then analyzes these extracts to track dye retention across different hair properties, providing added insight into factors that influence color longevity and overall hair fiber health.
Molecular Dye Loss Linked to Visible Color Fade
According to the companies, this technique marks the first time an analytical method can directly link the physical loss of dye molecules from the hair fiber to the visible color fade we see. It provides clear, quantitative data on the desorption process — how dye molecules detach from the hair over time.
A significant advantage of this new approach is reportedly its effectiveness across all hair types and textures. The study successfully tested the method on grey, black, curly and bleached hair samples. These insights can be applied universally, regardless of hair’s natural color or condition.
Deeper Insights Into Hair Health
Jeanna Zguris, Ph.D., executive director of hair care innovation at Aveda, highlighted the importance of the research. "It’s incredibly exciting because it gives us deeper insight into not just dye retention, but also how hair color formulation can interact with and impact the overall health of the hair fiber. This knowledge can lead to longer-lasting, more vibrant color with less damage, empowering consumers to keep their hair beautiful and strong for longer."
By revealing the molecular-level details of hair color fading, this work paves the way for more effective product testing and the creation of the next generation of hair color technologies.
